Papaya's subtle flavor blends with all foods

Bite into the soft flesh of a papaya and the scent of island flowers comes immediately to mind.

This golden pear-shaped fruit, touched with tints of rose and green, is often confused with the mango, it's oval shaped neighbor. But comparing the two is like comparing apples to oranges.

If truth be told, the mango is the fruit with celebrity status. The papaya, like a talented beauty with something to prove, is more difficult to deal with. Its flavor is subtle, and a supporting cast of lemon or lime juice is essential to enhance and balance its sweetness.

The thin skinned papaya bruises easily, so it's picked green to avoid damage in shipping. A papaya is ripe when it yields to gentle pressure, similar to the feel of a ripe avocado. If your first experience with a papaya is an underripe one, it may be your last. Sour, bitter and tannic, it's unforgettable for all the wrong reasons.

Ripening from green to gold can be done in a dark place at room temperature for a few days, or put into a brown paper bag with a banana to quicken ripening. Chill the fruit when ripe and eat within a few days for the best flavor.

Cutting into a papaya is almost a sensual experience. Stunning sunset colors of peach and coral contrast with a center of pearly black seeds. Several sources encourage using the seeds for a crunchy, peppery garnish. But their bitter-perfume flavor is an acquired taste. Better to get your crunch from nuts and your spice from peppercorns.

Papaya varieties such as Strawberry, Solo and Jamaican are common in our markets, and are similar in appearance and flavor. The Maradol papaya from Mexico is more unusual. It has a rounder, bumpier shape, ranging from 5 to 15 pounds, and is bright yellow-orange when ripe. It's milder than the other varieties, but the gorgeous rose-red colored flesh will sparkle when paired with more acid fruits such as fresh pineapple or tart raspberries.

The papaya may in fact be the chicken of the fruit world, marrying well with all flavors both delicate and strong. It's a natural for summer meals. Like melon, it can be draped with prosciutto for a first-rate first course. Coupled with shrimp, rosemary and a citrus vinaigrette, it cools a summer salad. And sauteed with brown sugar, cinnamon and a touch of rum, it transforms plain vanilla ice cream into a dessert out of paradise.