Another sale: Pagliacci Pizza changes hands

In April, specialty-foods maven Marcella Rosene sold Pasta & Company to a Kirkland-based investment group. Now comes news that Dorene Centioli-McTigue has sold Pagliacci Pizza to the folks behind Torrefazione Italia's expansion and its subsequent merger with Seattle's Best Coffee.

Mamma Mia! What next? Fran Bigelow selling Fran's Chocolates to Redhook?

Gwen Bassetti selling Grand Central Bakery to QFC/Fred Meyer/Krogers/ whatever it is? What gives here? And where will it stop?

Ok, I jest. After all, each of these fabulously food-focused women has come a long way, baby, having done her part to put Seattle on the culinary map. And lord knows they all deserve an extended break and a big-time golden handshake for a job exceedingly well done. But this small to big to bigger stuff: Sheesh! It's just so New Economy.

Many - myself included - believe nobody does it better locally, when it comes to pizza, than Centioli-McTigue, who founded the original Pagliacci in the University District 21 years ago, offering "Philadelphia-style" pizza by the slice (unheard of around here, then) or pie. The business now includes three restaurant locations and 12 take-out and delivery pizza kitchens. That none of those kitchens lies within delivery range of my front door has long been a personal peeve. Thankfully, that may soon change, according to the mother of the Primo pizza, who says the sale of her company to Seattle-natives Matt Galvin, Pat McCarthy and Pat McDonald bodes well for expansion north of the King/Snohomish County line.

"This happened quicker and earlier than I thought it would, but the timing seemed right," says Centioli-McTigue. "These guys have the heart and the youth to do this," she says. "It just feels right." In a letter to Pagliacci customers, Galvin, McCarthy and McDonald voiced their intention to spend the next several months learning the business, promising not to change the founder's "unique" recipes. "They kind of shadow me around, for now," says Centioli-McTigue. "I'll continue running the company until they feel comfortable (taking over)."

Centioli-McTigue's hands-on management skills speak volumes for Pagliacci's past success, though she insists that it's her employees (425 at last count) who've "made Pagliacci." Pizza-lovers looking to say "cheese" - or pepperoni, pesto, mushroom, sun-dried tomato, etc.- can call 206-726-1717 (in Seattle), or 425-453-1717 (on the Eastside) for take-out or delivery.

Pagliacci restaurant locations can be found at 4529 University Way N.E., Seattle, 206-632-0421; 426 Broadway E., Seattle, 206-324-0730; and 550 Queen Anne Ave. N., Seattle, 206-285-1232.

Anniversary celebrated

Last week marked the 10th anniversary of the Maple Leaf Grill (8929 Roosevelt Way N.E., Seattle, 206-523-8449), the introduction of new chef Hayden Smissen and the kick-off of his first seasonal menu. All this is reason enough to check out the Maple Leaf, if you haven't already, now firmly ensconced in new digs, just up the block from the original.

Owner David Albert meets, greets and puts a head on your beer and, as ever, won't be shy about suggesting what's hot and what's not. Relax, all ye regulars! You can still get a burger, catfish 'n chips and BBQ ribs, but with Smissen in the kitchen, things are taking a Cuban/Mexican/Spanish turn.

To wit: calabazitas, a sassy vegetarian stew (his grandmother's recipe, served with housemade corn fritters, $10.95); and "Creole Symphony" ($12.95), with blackened catfish, prawns, mussels and clams in a bourbon sauce served over rice with "Texas caviar" (black-eyed peas, mustard and poppy seeds in a wine vinaigrette). The Maple Leaf is open Monday-Friday, 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.; Saturday 4-10 p.m.; Sunday 4-9 p.m.

Nancy Leson's phone number is 206-464-8838. Her e-mail address is: nleson@seattletimes.com.