Vegetables of the Sea

SOMETIMES YOU TAKE for granted that the things you grew up eating are part of everyone's daily fare. Take, for example, seaweed.

I grew up in a Japanese household where seaweed was as common as, say, macaroni and cheese might have been in your household. Dried, seasoned sheets of nori over hot rice was a staple along with nori paste, nori sprinkles called furikake, melt-in-the-mouth wakame in miso soup, meaty kombu in stewed dishes, nutty hijiki in side dishes, fresh pickled ogo or limu mixed with raw tuna. And that's not to mention the tons of nori-wrapped sushi and rice-cracker snacks.

Yet although seaweed is an integral part of my diet and has been for many Asian and some European cultures for centuries, it's still a foreign substance in the average American household.

Interest seems to be growing, though. Word is that, like another famous Asian staple, soy, seaweed is good for you. Diet experts recommending whole, fresh and natural foods have thrown a ray of light on my favorite marine algae.

Edible seaweed falls primarily into three categories: brown, red or green. Seaweeds differ from land plants in that they lack a true stem, leaf and root system and anchor themselves to solid objects such as rocks. They absorb nutrients directly from the water. Seaweeds are known for their rich vitamin and mineral content - high in vitamins A, B, C and E and a good source of calcium, iron and iodine. Seaweed is high in fiber, and low in fat and cholesterol.

My mom would say that seaweed cleanses the intestinal tract, if you know what I mean.

Cynthia Lair, author and instructor at Bastyr University in Bothell, says interest in seaweed has sprouted in three areas: among nouvelle-cuisine chefs looking for innovative ingredients, among health-conscious consumers, and among people looking specifically for calcium and mineral sources. "Ounce for ounce, sea vegetables are higher in vitamins and minerals than any other class of food because they are grown in sea water, where minerals are constantly being renewed," Lair says in her book, "Feeding the Whole Family."

OK, seaweed might be good for you. But would you like it?

As an experiment, buy a package of nori sheets - the thin seaweed sushi is wrapped in. Heat a sheet over a burner or flame, passing the nori quickly back and forth until it releases a pungent-sweet marine fragrance and becomes slightly brittle. The color will change from dark black or purple to sea green. Tear a piece off and chew it to familiarize yourself with the slightly salty-sweet taste.

From there, move on to other seaweeds - dulse, arame, hijiki, kombu, wakame or ogo. Each has a unique flavor and texture. Try adding sea vegetables in place of familiar vegetables in soups, salads, stir fries, or to complement seafood.

Although the Japanese are by far the most ardent consumers of seaweed, the Chinese and Koreans, as well as the Irish and Pacific Islanders, regularly incorporate seaweed into their diet. In "Seaweed: A Cook's Guide," author Lesley Ellis describes some of the more popular ways seaweed has been traditionally enjoyed.

Dulse and carrageen are favorites of the Irish. Dulse, a type of red algae, is made into a dried, chewy, salty snack that also marries well with potato dishes. Carrageen, or Irish moss, is used as a gelling agent for jellies, pudding and seafood aspics. It's also used as a thickener in Jamaican soups and stews.

A classic Welsh dish called laverbread is made from a boiled puree of laver seaweed, which is similar to nori. The puree is combined with cream and rolled oats, made into little cakes, then fried to a crisp with bacon for a hearty Welsh breakfast.

The Chinese and Koreans use wakame (a fine green algae), kombu (brown kelp) and hijiki (a brown algae) as the Japanese do, in soups, vegetable side dishes and seafood dishes. A translucent seaweed called agar or kanten is also popular in many Asian cuisines for gelatin desserts and is sold in blocks, flakes or long strands.

The Hawaiians gather fresh, crunchy sea vegetables called limu or ogo. Traditionally, strands from red or green fronds were mixed with raw tuna, sea salt and an oily kukui nut relish called inamona, for a dish called poke. Sweet-sour pickled ogo is another islands favorite.

Although seaweed is still harvested wild, much of the supply is now commercially cultivated. Like other ocean vegetation, seaweed is sensitive to pollution and growers must find and maintain good sources of water. Harvesting is very labor intensive: Seaweed is hand-picked and dried in various forms over a number of days.

As a result, seaweed can be a pricey ingredient. A couple of ounces can cost anywhere from $3 to $10, depending on quality. But because it's dehydrated, a little goes a long way.

In the Seattle area, many varieties are stocked at Puget Consumers Co-op, Whole Foods, Uwajimaya, Central Market and Mutual Fish Co. Most forms need to be reconstituted by soaking in water before use. Exceptions are nori, which is eaten in dehydrated form, and Hawaiian limu, which is eaten fresh.

For lifetime indulgers like me, seaweed will always be on the menu, whether it's good for me or not. Although I doubt the current interest in it will ever threaten Kraft's macaroni-and-cheese franchise, there's hope it will no longer be foreign to so many palates.

Eleanor Mitsunaga is a Seattle writer. Tom Reese is a Seattle Times staff photographer.

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Seaweed 101

Dulse: A red algae with leathery fronds. Sold dried in packages and looks like dark-red bundles of flat leaves. Eaten as a chewy, salty snack or cooked with potatoes, in soups and fish dishes.

Nori (laver): A thin-leafed seaweed with various species available worldwide. Most popular is the Japanese variety, which is sold as dried, dark black, paper-like sheets. Used in dried form for sushi or cut in strips as garnish for soups and seafood dishes. Slightly toasting nori sheets brings out the flavor.

Kombu (kelp): A large brown algae with thick, wide fronds. Packaged in long, dried strips that need to be reconstituted or boiled in water. Used in stewed or braised dishes, but more importantly, as the basis for Japanese soup stock (dashi).

Wakame: A frilly green algae that looks like dark black chips when dried. Needs to be soaked in water for about 15 minutes before use, until it resembles fine green pieces of paper. Most often enjoyed in miso soup or as a vinegared salad side dish.

Hijiki: A brown algae that resembles thin branches. Sold packaged in dried, black, brittle pieces. Soak for 10 to 15 minutes before use. Will expand to 3 times its dried size. Add to stir frys or simmer with other vegetables.

Limu or ogo: A crunchy Hawaiian seaweed variety enjoyed fresh. Available in red or green fronds and enjoyed in salads or with raw fish.

Agar: A red algae that looks translucent in dried form. Sold in blocks, flakes or strands that are boiled down in water similar to other gelatins. A popular gelling agent for puddings, jellies and custards.