Dow finds wine pressing interest

Kirkland's long-lived and long-loved Cafe Juanita quietly celebrated 20 years at its Juanita Creek-side address in December. Known for rustic fare with deep connections to Italy's Piedmont region, it's an off-the-beaten-path locale that has always been worth seeking out.

Though proprietor (and former chef) Peter Dow's name has long been synonymous with his restaurant, savvy enophiles know him better as the man behind Cavatappi Winery, an enterprise housed downstairs at Cafe Juanita. Cavatappi's eye-catching wine-glass-stained label can be found (if you're lucky) furled around bottles of nebbiolo, sangiovese and sauvignon blanc, among other varietals. Dow's nebbiolo pressings and the Cavatappi name are used to produce grappa at Oregon's celebrated Clear Creek Distillery. Further immersing himself in the grape business, the erstwhile chef and restaurateur also is proprietor of Cavatappi Distribuzione, a Seattle-based wholesale wine distributing company that occupies much of his time and attention.

Meanwhile, back at the ranch-house (9702 N.E. 120th Place, Kirkland, 425-823-1505) - chef John Neumark has been running Cafe Juanita for the past six years, first as executive chef, more recently as chef and general manager. But that era, too, is coming to an end. Neumark, who has done much to ensure the restaurant's continued success, is leaving later this month.

His future plans are uncertain, but but this self-described "nerd" and unabashed academic hopes to somehow marry his "unfed intellectual side" with his 15-year culinary career, perhaps tapping opportunities in the educational field. "I'm not burned out. I'm not getting out of the business, I'm just looking for the right set of circumstances," says the man Dow claims is "one of the few chefs out there who understands wine." As for Neumark's successor, Dow says he is "talking to other chefs to come in and take over."

And the nominees are. . .? For now, Dow is pleading the fifth.

Eat, drink, donate:

Peter Dow's Cavatappi Winery is among 85 Washington state wineries pouring the goods at Taste Washington, the Washington Wine Commission's annual grape-and-gabfest, to be held at the Paramount Theatre April 9. Nibbles come courtesy of 45 area restaurants and fancy-foodstuff purveyors. A fully stocked shellfish bar is a main attraction. Tickets are $70 per person, available through Ticketmaster 206-292-ARTS or the Paramount Theatre 206-682-1414. Proceeds help support Gilda's Club, FareStart, and the Washington Wine Scholarship Fund.

Get out and join the fight! Tomorrow, restaurant-goers can take part in the annual "Food Fight" (a.k.a. Dining Out For Life). Here's the deal: You choose from nearly 150 participating Seattle-area restaurants (Call 323-DINE or visit www.csbrigade.org for listings), show up and eat, then leave knowing that a substantial portion of your bill will be donated to Seattle's Chicken Soup Brigade.

The Brigade provides support services for King County residents living with HIV/AIDS. Last year's event raised nearly $140,000. Now that's chicken soup for the soul.

Speaking of fights, it's never too early to secure tickets to Taste of the Nation, Share Our Strength's annual nationwide fight for hunger-relief.

The always sold-out Seattle event, starring eats and drinks provided by 65 of the area's top chefs, vintners and beverage companies, will be held May 7 at the Sheraton Seattle Hotel & Towers. Since its inception in 1988, Taste of the Nation has raised more than $1 million for local hunger relief. One hundred percent of the $85-per-ticket proceeds support such organizations as the Children's Alliance Food Policy Center, FareStart, Food Lifeline, Fremont Public Association and The Market Foundation. Take part by calling 206-545-6600.

Nancy Leson's phone number is 206-464-8838. Her e-mail address is: nleson@seattletimes.com