Lights not going out at Tacoma's Harbor Lights

Tacoma natives know octogenarian Anton Barcott's waterfront restaurant, Harbor Lights (2761 Ruston Way, Tacoma, 253-752-8600), as the place to go for a 4-pound bucket of steamed clams, halibut fish and chips, and fried Dungeness crab legs. They also know the local landmark as home of a good stiff drink. But these chatty folk have been hearing (and spreading) rumors that this classic, family-owned seafood joint, open since 1959, is closing its doors.

Not so, says Barcott's daughter, restaurant manager LaMoyne Hreha. That said, the rumor I've been hearing regarding the sale of Harbor Lights to Seattle-based Anthony's Restaurants is more than just industry jawing, according to Hreha. "We're in the middle of negotiations and it looks very positive at this point," she says. Her hope is to settle legal terms and turn Harbor Lights over to Anthony's within a month or so.

Why sell? "I'm old enough to retire," says Hreha, 65, who's been running the place for the past 20 years. "It's been a tremendous challenge and I love the day-to-day, but I'm tired and I can't do it the way I used to," she says. "The goal is that everything (regarding the sale) will be seamless and nobody will notice the difference," says Hreha. Anthony's marketing director, Lane Hoss, admits that though the sale is "not a done deal," the company expects it soon will be. As for fears that new ownership will bring too many changes, Hoss says, "Harbor Lights is a Tacoma landmark and our intentions are to keep it as it is."

Ivar's Salmon House, another local institution and landmark waterfront seafood restaurant, is getting a shot in the arm, or, at least, in the kitchen. After a year's worth of cajoling, Ivar's president and CEO Scott Kingdon says he persuaded Karl Beckley to come on board as executive chef. Beckley made his name locally as owner/chef at the Green Lake Grill (which had a 10-year run), spent four years managing Westlake Center's now-defunct Italian restaurant Tucci Benucch and was most recently corporate chef for Starbucks' new restaurant/cafes.

Beckley intends to bring back the focus on simply prepared seafood and remind Seattle why it long considered Ivar's Salmon House a family dining tradtion: a tradition, he says, he's hoping to revive. Beckley is heated up over the restaurant's 14-foot, open-pit, alderwood grill - an apparatus meant to emulate that used by the region's Native Americans. "It's a great way to cook, really primal, and flavors the fish beautifully," he says. Diners can expect a "slow progression of menu changes" as well as "a very traditional preparation of the best fish I can get my hands on," says Beckley.

Hugging the north shore of Lake Union since 1969, the Salmon House (401 N.E. Northlake Way, Seattle, 206-632-0767), is known as much for its salmon and clam chowder as its native longhouse decor. Lunch is served Monday through Saturday, brunch Sunday, dinner daily.

Marianne Zdobysz is another chef whose name, though difficult to pronounce (zz-DOE-biz, rhymes with showbiz), has a long local history. She spent four years as chef at Chez Shea, five at Queen City Grill, was opening chef at Entros World Grill, developed the concept and cooked at Boca, then trained with Wolfgang Puck as part of the opening team at ObaChine. Given that those last three restaurants are no longer operating, it's small wonder that Zdobysz has signed on to replace chef Michael Richman in the kitchen at Madison Park's favorite fixture, the Madison Park Cafe (1807 42nd Ave. E., Seattle, 206-324-2626).

It's been 21 years since owner Karen Binder opened Madison Park Cafe and three years since she and chef Richman began serving French country-style dinners. Once a breakfast must-do, the charming cafe now serves the morning repast on weekends only in order to devote more time to dinner and a lively catering trade.

As for Richman, his plans include opening a Jewish deli (from his mouth to God's ears!) once he finds the right location. With financial backing in line and a history that includes a longtime stint at the Kosher Corner in East Brunswick, N.J., one can only wish him mazel and glick (good luck). Meanwhile, he's been working through the transition with his successor, who flies solo beginning this weekend.

Zdobysz says her new job is "taking me full-circle to Chez Shea - bringing my career back to something that's intimate." Breakfast is served Saturday and Sunday. Dinner Tuesday through Saturday.