Safe, Sound Hounds -- Dogs Love To Hike, But Their Owners Must Prepare For Hazards Pooches Face

Imagine running through a field of grass that stands at eye level. The grass whips your face, leaving tiny cuts on your nose and barbed seeds lodged in the corners of your eyes. Now imagine trying to pull those foxtails out of your eyes without using your thumbs.

That's the life of a field dog. Despite the problems, trail hounds love being in the woods and meadows with their owners, whether it's a day of hunting, hiking or just exploring a nearby state park. But dog owners can make it even more enjoyable - and safe - for their pooches by being prepared.

Dogs in the field, especially those that hit the trails with backpackers, face just as many, if not more, dangers as do humans. Consider carrying a first-aid kit for canine needs.

Dr. Randy Acker has written the book on first aid for field dogs. A veterinary surgeon in Ketchum, Idaho, Acker has a particular interest in sporting dog injuries and orthopedic surgery, and has earned a national reputation as one of the foremost canine surgeons in the West. He wrote a highly informative book, "Dog First Aid: A Field Guide to Emergency Care for the Outdoor Dog" (published by Wilderness Adventure Press).

Acker says dogs make great outdoor companions, but need care before, during and after each outing.

Before heading out, there are a few things you can do to make the trip safer.

Get your dog in trail condition. Too often, we tend to think of dogs as some kind of wonder athlete - assuming they are ready to go at a moment's notice and they can hike all day without a problem. Dogs can be couch potatoes, too. They suffer sore muscles, charlie horses, sprains and strains just like us.

Start them on a conditioning program. Dogs love morning walks, and hiking dogs (not to mention their hiking owners) will benefit from a long walk in the morning and another in the evening. Make it three to five miles at a fast walking pace and in a couple of months, you and the dog will be toned and ready for a long backpacking trip in the mountains.

Once on the trail, dogs are remarkably resilient but there are a few things they must endure that we, as humans, do not.

One rule to keep in mind before trying to administer first aid to a dog: Even the most friendly, lovable dog can bite when it is in pain and scared, so apply a muzzle to the injured dog before treating it.

Here's a look at how to treat common problems:

Grass seeds

To dogs, grass seeds, also known as foxtails, can be deadly. Because dogs' faces are around our knee level, foxtails can lodge in their ears, eyes, noses and/or throats.

A dog that paws at its mouth, gags or drools extensively, or launches into an eating frenzy, may have grass seeds lodged in the back of its mouth or in its throat.

Open the dog's mouth and, if you see a seed or other material, try to remove it with your fingers. If you cannot see anything, feed the dog bread, which might dislodge the seed. If it's serious, you can use an over-the-counter throat spray, such as Chloraseptic, to deaden the irritation and pain and make it easier for the dog to breathe. Have the dog checked by a vet as soon as possible.

Grass seeds in the nose can be even more troublesome and dangerous. The barb-like protrusions on foxtails makes them difficult to remove. One sign of this is if the dog has a sneezing fit. If you see the seed, pull it out. If not, get your dog to the vet as soon as possible. A foxtail seed left too long in the nose could travel to the brain and cause an abscess, Acker said.

Grass seed in the ears or eyes should be removed as soon as possible. A dog that shakes its head violently and frequently might have a foxtail lodged inside. If you see the seed, use fingers or tweezers to remove it. If not, get your dog to a vet as soon as possible.

Foxtails also can stick in a dog's eye, and might become wedged under the third eyelid. That can cause a great deal of pain but is relatively easy to remedy. Flush the eye with water to wash the object out, or if you see it, use finger-tip tweezers or a damp cotton swab to remove it.

Torn dewclaws

Dewclaws are the fifth "finger" on the dog's front legs. Because dogs walk on their toes, the dewclaw - essentially the dogs' thumb - usually dangles uselessly several inches above the ground. The dewclaw can catch on brush, logs, rocks or other trail obstructions.

A torn dewclaw can bleed a lot, but generally it isn't a serious injury. The proscribed treatment is to stop the bleeding through direct pressure. Next, wrap gauze around the dewclaw and leg, then wrap tape around it to hold the dewclaw firmly to the leg. Don't wrap too tightly, however, or you'll constrict blood flow into the lower leg.

Dehydration, heat and cold

Dogs are prone to dehydration, heat stroke and hypothermia, just as you are. Make sure you carry enough water for you and your dog.

If it gets hot, watch for signs of heat exhaustion - lethargy, clumsiness, heavy panting. Slow down, let the dog rest in the shade, and soak it with water (a swim in a mountain creek or lake is the best way to beat heat exhaustion and heat stroke).

Burns

When backpacking, you'll likely be cooking with a camp stove.

If the pooch noses up to it, it can get a severe burn quickly. Cool the burn with snow or cold water, apply topical antibiotic where blisters are broken, and bandage lightly to keep the burn area clean. Get the dog to a vet.

Pad injury

Sharp rocks and ice can lacerate a dog's feet, but it's not only natural dangers that threaten the dog.

Throughout the Cascades and Olympics, old mining claims are littered with rusty metal and glass.

If your dog has a cut pad, check the wound for foreign objects - remove any bits of glass, metal, etc. - then stop the bleeding through direct pressure. Apply an antiseptic ointment and bandage the foot. A dog booty can be used to hold the bandage in place and prevent the dog from chewing on the bandage.

Drowning

Even a water-loving Labrador can drown. Many mountain lakes are ringed with rocks that make it difficult for a dog to scramble out, and often, high-country water is topped with thin ice, and dogs aren't smart enough to know the difference between solid ground and thin ice.

If your dog goes in the drink and has trouble getting out, you might have to perform an emergency rescue. Once the dog is on dry land, get as much water out of its lungs as possible. First, hold the dog by its hind legs and let it hang upside down. While you are doing this, have someone close the dog's mouth and blow hard into its nose several times to force air into the lungs.

If the dog is not breathing, and has no heartbeat, perform CPR. Lay the dog on its right side and check its pulse by placing your finger tips on the left side of chest behind the elbow.

If there is no pulse, make sure the dog's airway is clear, close its mouth, and blow into the nose until the lungs expand. Then, push over the heart four times, depressing the chest one to two inches. Repeat these two steps about 15 times per minute for at least five minutes or until the dog regains consciousness.

Sore muscles, etc.

Most vets will provide a small supply of prescription anti-inflammatory medication for a dog first-aid kit, or you can use aspirin.

While dogs can take aspirin, it can cause stomach ailments. To prevent this, use a buffered aspirin or enteric-coated aspirin (designed to dissolve in the intestine rather than the stomach).

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FIRST-AID KIT FOR DOGS A GOOD IDEA

When your dog is hurt, you'll need to administer first aid. It's a good idea to take along a first-aid kit especially made for active dogs, like those produced by Ruffwear or one by veterinarian Randy Acker.

Ruffwear features kits in two sizes: The Hiker for dayhikes and shorter backpacking trips, and The Traveler for longer wilderness treks where professional medical assistance may be days away.

Both feature the same basic necessities for caring for injured dogs, including a guide to emergencies. The kits include bandages and wound dressings made specifically for animals, things like stretchy gauze and cohesive flexible bandages that not only bind a wound, but wrap securely and comfortably around the dog's legs.

The Hiker weighs just 9 ounces and retails for $35.95. The Traveler ($49.95) weighs 20 ounces.

For more information, contact Ruffwear at 888-783-3932 (888-RUFF-WEAR) or visit www.ruffwear.com.

Acker also has put together a list for a comprehensive first-aid kit. He recommends that anyone heading into wild with a dog carry at least the essentials:

Instruments: Scissors/bandage scissors, toenail clippers, rectal thermometer (a healthy dog should show a temperature of 101 when taken rectally).

Cleansers and disinfectants: 3% hydrogen peroxide, Betadine, eye wash (Acker recommends Opticlear).

Topical antibiotics and ointments (non-prescription): Calamine Lotion, triple antibiotic ointment (Bacitracin, Neomycin or Polymyxin), baking soda (for bee stings), Vaseline.

Medications: Enteric-coated aspirin or Bufferin, Imodium-AD, Pepto-Bismol.

Dressings and bandages: Gauze pads (4 inches square), gauze roll, non-stick pads, adhesive tape (1-inch and 2-inch rolls).

Miscellaneous: Muzzle, dog boots, prescription medication your dog needs. Acker offers a comprehensive dog first-aid kit in a compact fanny pack-style case. For information, contact him at the Sun Valley AnimalCenter, 1-800-699-2663, or visit http://www.svanimal.com/