Chic Theoz Is The Latest To Emulate Obachine

It's closing time again on Sixth Avenue in Seattle as another high-profile restaurant bites the big one. Theoz opened in 1997 as the collaboration between seasoned restaurant-veteran Theodora van den Beld, uber-hairstylist Gary Bocz and peripatetic chef Emily Moore, whose unusual "Ring of Fire" cuisine brought much early attention to this elegant venue. Moore's tenure was short-lived: five head chefs and a multitude of menu concepts followed in her wake. This spring, van den Beld and Bocz severed professional ties (their second restaurant co-venture, Yakima Grill, is now under van den Beld's ownership), and a few weeks ago Bocz pulled an ObaChine - abruptly closing shop. Food shop that is. His frou-frou salon, which adjoins the restaurant in the historic Decatur Building, remains open for business. So, what will become of the beautiful space that was once Theoz?

Only its hairdresser knows for sure.

And what has become of chef Emily Moore, who, as I very recently announced in "Taste of the Town," had taken a new position as executive chef at Europa West, with locations in Kirkland and on Bainbridge Island? According to Europa's owner, Jason Weisser, who got the news from his new chef-exec via cell phone while he was attending a charity auction - Moore quit.

Restaurateurs Peter Levy and Jeremy Hardy have been crying - for mercy - since opening Atlas Foods across from Barnes & Noble in University Village (2820 N.E. University Village, 206-985-8742). Their newest venture - featuring a "culinary road map of international and American cuisines" (hence the name) - has been packed since it opened early this month. Are we surprised? Not! The founding fathers of Wallingford's Jitterbug (formerly the Beeliner Diner), Queen Anne's 5 Spot and the Coastal Kitchen on Capitol Hill have the formula for success: quality, priced-right eats in fun, neighborhood settings.

"This is a neighborhood?," you ask. Oh, come on. Doesn't the parking situation at U-Village remind you of Capitol Hill? Don't those darling specialty shops remind you of upper Queen Anne? And how about all the Baby Gap-wearing toddlers playing bumper cars in the central playground with their Mishi-clad moms posing nearby: Wallingford, no? It takes a village to make a great neighborhood. And it takes a couple of experienced players to turn the former premises of Asia Grille into a restaurant destination in its own right. Atlas is open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner, cocktails served till midnight.

Sweet Cafe Nola closed at the end of July and re-opened last week as - poof! - Cafe Nola (101 Winslow Way E., Bainbridge Island, 206-842-3822). Lifestyle changes prompted sisters Mary Bugarin and Melinda Lucas to sell their little labor of love, which has been charming both islanders and day-trippers since 1995. New owner/chef Kevin Warren, who spent three years as sous-chef at Marco's Supperclub, intends to continue the cafe's tradition of relying on local producers for island-grown ingredients. His new full-service Cafe Nola should continue to appeal to ferry-hoppers at lunchtime, thanks to a choice of four soups (also available for takeout) as well as interesting salads and sandwiches. Locals can now settle in for a leisurely dinner, which takes a very Marco's-like multi-ethnic turn. Warren's opening menu includes pan-seared scallops over yellow corn grit cakes, fried chicken with greens and sweet potato salad, and togarashi halibut with soba noodles, shiitakes and Asian vegetables. Cafe Nola is now open for lunch, dinner and brunch (closed Sunday night and Monday).

Nancy Leson's phone number is 206-464-8838. Her e-mail address is: nleson@seattletimes.com