Beyond Mahi-Mahi -- Let Hawaiian Fish Take Your Seafood Palate For A Little Vacation

I STEPPED into the doorway of Mutual Fish Co. on Rainier Avenue South and was instantly propelled to the fish markets of my hometown in Hawaii. The wet floor, the smell of the ocean permeating the market, the workers with sharp knives skillfully scaling, gutting and filleting.

Finally, a place that feels like home, I thought. A place where fish didn't arrive on little plastic foam trays. A place where I could examine the eyes of a fish (the key to freshness) and watch as it was cleaned.

I eagerly made my way to the ice-filled display, hoping to find the centerpiece for an island fish dinner. But hope turned to disappointment with the familiar display: salmon, halibut, cod, sole and catfish. I wasn't going to find that akule (Spanish mackerel) or uku (gray snapper) fillet my poor, wintry taste buds were yearning for.

In Hawaii, the sheer volume and endless variety of fish available year-round would astonish any Northwesterner. There is much more than just mahi-mahi. A fish market is like the tropical ocean itself, vibrant with colors of aquamarine, orange, yellow, red and glistening silver. The possibilities can be overwhelming. Do I feel like having steamed fish with ginger and green onions? Broiled fish with a miso sauce? Seared fish with a tropical salsa? Baked fish with a teriyaki marinade, or a simple fish soup with tofu? It's easy to get carried away with ideas when the selection seems limitless.

With nearly one-third of all the edible fish caught worldwide discarded due to market preferences, according to Hawaiian fisheries officials, Hawaii serves as an example of what can be accomplished when the state, the fishing industry and dedicated chefs work together to promote using a wide spectrum of available fish rather than a select few. I have come to appreciate this even more since leaving the Islands.

Don't get me wrong about the salmon and halibut. I enjoy them. But when you're raised on the fruits of the Pacific Ocean, it's very difficult to leave them behind. No cod, sole or trout can come close to the flavors of ono (also called wahoo), opah (moonfish), shutome (broadbill swordfish), onaga (ruby snapper) and opakapaka (pink snapper). Even the more common ahi and mahi-mahi rank high on my ideal fish list.

The freshness and quality of Hawaiian fish let you enjoy most species without heavy batters and sauces. Simple searing or grilling over a hibachi with a touch of light seasonings often renders a mouth-watering dish.

"Most people ruin fish by overcooking," says chef Dean Shinagawa of Roy's Restaurant at the Westin Hotel in Seattle. Usually, only a couple of minutes of searing are needed to bring out the flavors of the fish, Shinagawa explains.

On any given day Roy's will have several Hawaiian fish dishes on the menu. It is one place in Seattle where I know that a seared ono will be cooked to perfection. Paired with an Asian-inspired hoisin-citrus vinaigrette and a crunchy light watercress salad, the dish is simply heavenly.

Roy's, owned by Hawaii-based chef Roy Yamaguchi, has been steadily educating people about the pleasures of Hawaiian fish. I joined Roy's staff members at a recent blind fish-tasting at the restaurant. Even those familiar with Hawaiian fish found it an eye-opening experience. A variety of fish fillets were served one at a time. Each was seared with a little bit of oil and nothing else. We smelled and tasted and rated each fish for aroma, texture and flavor, similar to a wine tasting.

The tasting was meant to educate restaurant employees so they could make knowledgeable suggestions about the fish for Roy's diners.

We found that someone who likes the mild flavor of sole may be open to opah, mahi-mahi or even monchong (also called bigscale or sickle pomfret). Those who prefer a meatier fish might enjoy ono, uku or ahi. For sweeter fish they could try hapu'upu'u (grouper or sea bass), shutome or onaga.

For any preference, in fact, there is a suitable Hawaiian fish.

Learning about these fish is one thing; finding them in the Northwest is another.

Because freshness and quality are paramount, the price of Hawaiian fish can be steep, anywhere from $12 to $20 a pound. Summer brings the best value and selection to the Northwest. Both Mutual Fish and Uwajimaya hope to have a decent supply of ono, nairagi (striped marlin), shutome, opah, mahi-mahi, ahi, akule and some reef fish such as uhu, mempachi and taape this summer.

Still, you don't have to spend an arm and a leg or devote countless hours in the kitchen to enjoy a taste of the Pacific. One of my all-time favorite fish dishes is a simple pan-fried whole akule, which runs about $6 a pound. Fry it over high heat until the skin is nice and crispy, and liberally drizzle a mixture of soy sauce and lemon juice.

For other ideas check out two cookbooks by Hawaii-based chefs: Yamaguchi's "Roy's Feasts From Hawaii" (Ten Speed Press, $27.95) and "Sam Choy's Island Flavors" (Hyperion, $27.95), which provide both recipes and great tips on seafood preparation. Though the books include a number of Island-inspired recipes, nothing will soothe your stomach like the fish dishes. One taste of a steaming hot fillet covered in fragrant ti leaves and seasoned with Hawaiian sea salt will have you hooked.

I may have to forage a bit this summer for my favorite fish friends, but I consider it essential for my survival here. They can take the Island girl from Hawaii, but they can't take Hawaii, or its fish, out of the girl.

Eleanor Mitsunaga writes the Fresh Today column in the Food section of The Seattle Times. Steve Ringman is a Times staff photographer.

Shiso-Leaf-Seared Hawaiian Monchong With an Umeboshi Ginger Lime Vinaigrette Serves 4

This dish is a delicious pairing of a delicate fish and a light, snappy vinaigrette, suitable for an intimate summer dinner gathering. If monchong is unavailable, use opah, mahi-mahi or sea bass. Don't let the unfamiliar ingredients throw you. The Asian ingredients aren't hard to find in the Seattle area.

4 shiso leaves (Perilla leaf) # 4 5-ounce fillets of Hawaiian monchong (bigscale or sickle pomfret) Salt and pepper Olive oil

1 bunch mizuna greens, washed, with leaves plucked from stems # 1 small bunch kaiware daikon (radish) sprouts #

1/3 cup sweet pickled ginger # 2 tablespoons soy sauce 2 tablespoons olive oil Pinch of salt and black pepper

Sauce: 12 or 13 umeboshi (Japanese pickled plums, soft variety) with 2 tablespoons plum juice # 1 tablespoon gingerroot, minced 4 kaffir lime leaves # 2 tablespoons cilantro 1 cup rice-wine vinegar #

1/2 cup mirin (Japanese sweet sake) # 2 tablespoons sesame oil Black and white sesame seeds for garnish

# Can be found at Uwajimaya or other groceries that supply Asian ingredients.

1. Place a shiso leaf on each of the monchong fillets. Season to taste with salt and pepper. With the shiso-leaf-side down, sear fillets in a hot skillet with a little bit of olive oil. Cook approximately one minute on each side to a medium doneness. 2. In a mixing bowl toss mizuna greens, kaiware sprouts and pickled ginger. Add soy sauce, olive oil and pinches of salt and pepper. Lightly toss to coat greens. 3. For the sauce, separate the pickled plum meat from its seed and place into a blender with some of the pickled plum juice. Add gingerroot, kaffir lime leaves, cilantro, rice-wine vinegar, mirin and sesame oil and blend until smooth in consistency. Strain and reserve. 4. Place seared monchong on a dish and top with greens. Spoon vinaigrette around fish. Garnish with black and white sesame seeds and serve.

Recipe by chef Dean Shinagawa of Roy's Restaurant.