Sailing Endeavour Goes Back In Time

Geoff Kerr has been at sea for nearly three years - sailing the world's waters in a replica of an 18th-century vessel called Endeavour.

The wooden ship is a reproduction of Capt. James Cook's H.M. Bark Endeavour, in which he and his crew circumnavigated the globe from 1768 to 1771.

In August, the Endeavour will arrive in Washington for the first time. It will dock in Westport, Port Townsend and Gig Harbor as a floating museum.

"It's dark, dingy and claustrophobic," said Kerr, the ship's first officer. "It's like we've gone away in a time capsule - like we just stole the ship from Cook himself."

Transported back to the age of exploration, Kerr and the 16-member permanent crew left Australia in 1996 for a four-year, around-the-world tour, sailing across the Indian Ocean to South Africa and the United Kingdom before arriving in North America.

Visitors can explore the length of the vessel, including the sleeping quarters, marines and officers quarters and helm. Barrels of salted beef, old navigational charts, and period clothing and furniture add to the ship's authenticity.

"We're stoked to have it here in Westport," said James "Flagg" Locke, operations director for the Grays Harbor Historical Seaport. "This will be a grand adventure."

Dick McMahon, the station manager for KCBY television in Coos Bay, Ore. (where the ship is currently docked), served as a crew member when the Endeavour sailed from Eureka, Calif., to Coos Bay last week along with 30 other people, ranging from college students to retirees. Excellent physical shape is a requirement for the volunteer crew.

Without previous sailing experience, McMahon said the permanent crew provided instructions on knot-tying and where to throw up.

"It definitely was not a cruise," he said. His sleeping quarters consisted of a hammock that was "so tight you felt like a banana."

The ceiling was only 4 feet above the floor, so he had to duck. For five days, McMahon cleaned the galleys, kept night watch and unfurled the sails, climbing 75 feet up the mast.

McMahon and the crew lived like 18th-century sailors but tasted no alcohol despite the fact that Cook and his men were each allotted a gallon of beer and a pint of rum per day. The ship is also has engines, lifeboats and modern navigational equipment.

In his explorations, Cook became the first person to determine that New Zealand consists of two islands, chart the east coast of Australia, accurately calculate a ship's position at sea, and substantially reduce scurvy among a crew.

"Of course, all that flowed from Captain Cook's voyage was not good," said John Longley, chief executive of the Endeavour Foundation. "The increase in visits from European and American ships had a catastrophic impact on those indigenous people."

The ship will sail to Hawaii, Fiji and New Zealand after its tour along the Pacific Northwest coast, returning to Australia in time for the 2000 Summer Olympics in Sydney. -------------------------------

Docking plans

Here's a schedule for the Endeavour, a replica of Capt. Cook's ship. For more schedule information, go to http://www.barkendeavour.com.au . Admission is $10 for adults, $8 for seniors and $5 for children under 17.

Astoria, Ore.: July 24-Aug. 1. Columbia Maritime Museum wharf.

Westport:, Aug. 6-8. Westport Marina.

Sooke, B.C.: Aug. 14-15. Government Dock.

Victoria, B.C.: Aug. 17-29. Ship's Point Wharf.

Port Townsend: Sept. 7-12. City Dock at Water Street.

Gig Harbor: Sept. 23-26. Jerisich Park and public dock.

Vancouver, B.C.: Oct. 2-10. Vancouver Maritime Museum in Vanier Park.