Experienced Climber Dies From Fall -- Rescue At Snoqualmie Pass Was Difficult

Peter Morse, who died Saturday following a climbing accident on Kendall Peak, was well-equipped and experienced. The peak he climbed with four other people did not seem particularly demanding - it did not even require a rope, said one of the rescuers.

"The last bit of the way in was a very steep snow slope, where the snow was not good for kicking steps," said Doug Caley, who took part in the rescue mission near Snoqualmie Pass ski resort.

"The guy slipped and fell 200 feet. He hit a tree and bounced off. He started sliding and did not get himself arrested. His ax injured him."

Despite rescue efforts, Morse, 55, of Kenmore died before he was taken to Harborview Medical Center several hours later.

Caley who received a pager message at about 3 p.m. Saturday, said it was clear to him that Morse was badly injured. He and two other rescuers drove to the pass and hiked to where the accident happened.

Minutes later an Army helicopter brought a medic, and they worked to get Morse on the helicopter. But it did not happen for another few hours because of the weather.

"As we climbed, the weather was good," Caley said. "But then it started to snow, the fog came in. The weather went downhill very fast."

Visibility became very poor, making it impossible for the helicopter to lift Morse. The pilot hovered, but conditions remained bad.

"I was surprised that the helicopter hovered as long as it did," Caley said. "Then it disappeared in the fog, and we had no clue what happened.

A freak snowstorm engulfed the helicopter, forcing the crew to return to Boeing Field to refuel, said the pilot, First Lt. Massimo Federico.

The medic, who was left behind on the mountain with Morse, used a cellular phone to call the medical evacuation team at the Army's Yakima Firing Center. A helicopter from Yakima was able to lift Morse with a litter basket when the weather broke about midnight, Federico said.

"We were so frustrated," Caley said.

"Each time it cleared a little, we hoped for a helicopter."

The Army medic and the two search-and-rescue climbers spent the night on the mountain in a snow cave.

Morse was a native Midwesterner who loved climbing and being in the mountains, said family friend Iris Clay.

A financial planner with American Express Financial Advisors, Morse graduated from The Mountaineers basic climbing course in 1996. In the years since, he'd climbed to the summits of Mount Rainier and Mount Baker.

Morse was well-trained and in excellent shape for the Kendall Peak scramble, said his climbing partner, Mike Thornberry, who did not go on this trip.

Morse is survived by his wife, Natalie; son, Chris; sister, Meredith Prime of Lake Placid, N.Y.; and a brother, John Morse Jr. of New York. His survivors also include his parents, Adelaide and John Morse of Perrysburg, Ohio.

Magdalena Kulig's phone message number is 748-5813. Her e-mail address is mkulig@seattletimes.com

Staff reporter Marsha King contributed to this story.