In Victoria: Entertainment, Activities, Views At Every Turn

VICTORIA - For a city that bills itself as a "taste of how life used to be," this place has a good sense of how families like things now: entertaining, affordable and convenient.

This compact British Columbia city comfortably fits British, native First People, Asian and other cultures under one umbrella.

The views range from seeing sea life at the bottom of the Inner Harbour to water and mountain vistas from the top of lush Beacon Hill Park.

(Dollar figures are Canadian except otherwise noted.)

GETTING THERE

For Seattle-area families, whether by seaplane, helicopter, high-speed catamaran, state ferry or the Princess Marguerite III car ferry, just getting to Vancouver Island is part of the adventure.

For a scenic trip, try one of Kenmore Air's eight daily seaplane flights between Seattle and Victoria's Inner Harbour. Round-trip adult fare is $155 (U.S) May-June, $165 July-August, and $105 for children all summer. Phone: (800) 543-9595 or 486-1257.

Or drive to Anacortes and board one of two daily summer Washington state ferry (464-6400 and 800-84-FERRY) 3.5 hour sailings through the San Juan Islands to Sidney, B.C., about 18 miles north of Victoria. Make vehicle reservations mid-June through mid-September. Driver and vehicle one way, $35.65 (U.S.); adult passengers $6.70 (U.S.); children 5-11 $3.45; under 5, free.

The Princess Marguerite III, formerly the Royal Victorian (800-668-1167) was recently purchased by the Victoria Clipper. It leaves Seattle daily at 1 p.m., May 16 through mid-September, for a 4.5 hour cruise to Victoria. Round-trip fare for car and driver $49 (U.S); adult passengers $29; children up to 11 years $14.50.

Or leave your car and board one of Victoria Clipper's (448-5000 in Seattle or 250-382-8100 in Victoria) four summer daily departures for a two- to four-hour catamaran cruise from Seattle's Pier 69. Round-trip adult fare $109; children 1-11 $54.50.

If you're in a hurry, beginning May 22, Helijet Airways will offer three daily helicopter flights from Seattle's Boeing Field to Victoria. Flight time: 34 minutes. Fares: $92 (U.S.) one way; $170 (U.S.) round trip; with Vancouver connections. Reservations: (800) 665-4354.

GETTING AROUND

On Victoria's Regional Transit System/B.C.Transit (250-382-6161), one-way single-zone fares are $1.50 for adults and $1 for children 5 to 13. A $5 adult or $4 child's pass offers unlimited daily travel. Cabs usually charge about $6 anywhere in the city.

WHERE TO STAY

Most Victoria summer room rates run $100 to $200 nightly. Some places have swimming pools, complimentary breakfasts and parking, and in-room kitchen facilities.

The stone and stately Empress Hotel presides over Victoria's Inner Harbor. It's almost 90 years old and know for its afternoon tea daily (about $17) amid posh furnishings and antiques. Phone (800) 441-1414; (250) 381-8111. Cost: about $200 a room. Indoor pool and health club.

The Victorian-costumed staff at the Captain's Palace (800-563-9656 or 250-388-9191) make kids feel like they're staying in a museum.

Other possibilities:

Best Western Inner Harbour, 412 Quebec St., (800) 528-1234 or (250) 384-5122; and Quality Inn Harbourview, 455 Belleville St., (800) 228-5151 or (250) 386-2421; Travelodge, 229 Gorge Road, five-minute drive to downtown (800) 578-7878 or (250) 388-6611. The Royal Scot Inn Suite Hotel, a converted apartment building, has studio and one-bedroom suites with kitchens, a game room with pool table and indoor pool; 425 Quebec St., (800) 663-7515 or (250) 388-5463; e-mail royalscot@commercial.net.

RAIN OR SHINE

Exhibits at the Royal British Columbia Museum, a block south of the Empress Hotel, include prehistoric fossils, a tidal pool, and the First Peoples Gallery with collections depicting the early days of British Columbia. Out back, look for totem-pole carving and a ceremonial longhouse (800-661-5411 or 250-387-3701. Open daily. Adults $5.35 through June, and $7 July-September; children: $2).

Across the street, behind the Empress, is the jungle-like Crystal Garden. Tropical and exotic dwellers live here - from wallabies to flamingoes. (250-381-1213; open daily; adults: $7, children, $4).

Stairs go beneath harbor waters at the Pacific Undersea Gardens a few blocks west of the Empress. where visitors see colorful sea anemones and dangerous-looking wolf eelsPhone (250) 382-5717. Adults $7, students 12-17, $5; kids 5-11, $3.50.

Nearby is the Royal London Wax Museum - with galleries ranging from the Chamber of Horrors to Storybook Land. Some exhibits might not be suitable for youngsters (250-388-4461) Open daily. Adults $7; students $3; children 5 or younger free.

Teens studying Shakespeare will like Anne Hathaway's Thatched Cottage. Tudor-styled women describe 16th century life at this Stratford-on-Avon farmhouse replica on the grounds of the Olde English Inn (250-388-4353; $7 for adults; students $4.75, 7 and younger free; take BC Transit No. 24 from corner of Douglas and Yates).

WARM WEATHER WINNERS

Even if 50 acres of flower gardens don't appeal to your kids, Butchart Gardens' summer Saturday night fireworks displays will. The fireworks shows are July 5 to Aug. 30. Phone (250) 652-5256 or E-mail: www.@butchartgardens.bc.ca. Take BC Transit No. 75 or drive 13 miles north of Victoria; adult admission $7, teens 13-18 $3.50; ages 5-12 $1).

At Swan Lake Nature Sanctuary three miles north of downtown, visitors walk on floating boardwalks that circle the 100-acre park. You'll find everything from lizards to white swans, which you can feed with grain from the sanctuary's nature house (250-479-0211; by donation; take Bus 70 and 75 cross-town or drive 3 miles north of downtown).

Back downtown, your family may enjoy a horse-drawn carriage ride. Prices range from $10 per adult to $90 for a one-hour family trip. Consider Victoria Carriage Tours, Tallyho Tours or Black Beauty Carriage Tours. Most leave from corners near the Inner Harbour. Riding high in a London-style double-decker bus also is popular (in front of the Empress Hotel).

FAVORITE FREEBIES

1. Take a nighttime stroll past the provincial Parliament Buildings, bedecked in 3,000 white lights.

2. Pet friendly critters at Beacon Hill Children's Farm (250-381-2532) open through mid-October in Beacon Hill Park behind the Royal British Columbia Museum. After visiting the peacocks and pigs, walk to a nearby cricket pitch, romp on the playground. Or hike to the top of Beacon Hill for a fine view of the Strait of Juan de Fuca and Washington's Olympic Mountains.

3. Hunt for totem poles, starting at the Thunderbird Park outside the Royal British Columbia Museum, the Parliament Buildings and Beacon Hill.

4. Beaches - Willows Beach in Oak Bay and Cadboro Bay Beach in Gordon Head, near the University of Victoria, are top calm-water ocean swimming and beach play stretches. Both have playgrounds and washrooms.

5. Explore the century-old gold-mining history of restored Market Square, which now offers shops, restaurants and entertainment. One block away, you'll find the oldest Chinatown in Canada.

SPECIAL EVENTS

Locals and visitors celebrate Queen Victoria's birthday with a May 21 Victoria Day Parade on downtown's Douglas Street.

In late June and early July, there will be entertainers and foods from around the globe on the Centennial Square stage for Folkfest. Look for everything from Scottish dancing to ballet (250-388-4728).

Canada Day is July 1. Be ready for crowds and lots of fireworks.

BITE TO EAT

Combine entertainment with dining at Millos (250-382-4422), a Greek restaurant behind the Empress. There's tasteful folk and belly dancing on weekend nights and a kids menu. ($9-$25).

For a no-frills breakfast or lunch, try the Banana Belt Cafe' (250-385-9616). ($5-$10).

Cruise menus from around the world at Fogg 'N' Suds (250-383-2337) with its hamburger, nacho, schnitzel and calamari cuisine ($6-$13). Older kids will get a kick out of the restaurant's "Around the World in 80 Days" theme.

THE BUDGET

Transportation:

Victoria Clipper: three full fares, one child fare, $381 (U.S.)

State ferry, $135 (U.S.)

By air, $540 (U.S.)

By Princess Marguerite III, $230 (U.S.) In Victoria:

Two-day bus passes (two adults, two students), $18. Lodging:

Two nights at downtown hotel, $300. Meals:

Two $30 breakfasts; two $40 lunches; two $70 dinners, $280. Entertainment:

Admissions to three sites: (three adults, one child), $75.

Beacon Hill Park, downtown walking tour, free.

MORE INFORMATION:

Tourism British Columbia: (800) 663-6000 for informaton, accommodations and reservations. Web site: www.tbc.gov.bc.ca

Tourism Victoria: 812 Wharf St., Victoria, B.C., V8W 1T3. Phone: (250) 953-2033. Web site: www.travel.bc.ca

"Frommer's 3rd Edition Vancouver & Victoria," $13.95 by MacMillan.

Victoria Accommodations, (800) 663-3883.

New guidebook: Check out "Victoria & Vancouver Island" by Kathleen & Gerald Hill, $14.95 (U.S.), by Hilltop Publishing, Victoria, B.C. Suzanne Monson is a Seattle freelance writer. With Rosanne Cohn, she wrote "Discover Washington and Seattle With Kids"(Johnston Associates International, $17).