Outdoors / Kayaking In The San Juan Islands -- Offseason Best Time To Experience Offshore Beauty

The cry carries out, clear and shrill, over the water. Peering toward shore, we make out one, then two, white heads against a backdrop of dark green pine.

Taking flight, the two bald eagles catch a current, glide directly over our heads and, joined by a third, cruise Smallpox Bay in search of dinner.

Kayaking the San Juan Islands any time of year promises adventure - the sheer physical activity, the beauty of the islands from a unique vantage point and the not-uncommon encounters with wildlife rarely seen from the shore.

But there's something special about kayaking the waters offseason. There's a sense of solitude and mystery and, best of all, the opportunity to see the islands when they're not overrun by visitors, ferries and motorboats.

The San Juan Islands - especially San Juan, Orcas and Lopez - are known for their clear waters, calm bays and majestic hills. At low tide, 786 islands and reefs are visible, although most launchings take place from Anacortes or the three largest islands.

With Memorial Day kicking off the official tourist season, the next eight weeks can be prime time for exploring island waterways, wildlife and sometimes unpredictable spring weather.

Whether it's the curious, bewhiskered face of an otter or the 6-foot dorsal fin of an orca, the ability to view - and be viewed by - wildlife is one of the best parts of paddling. Orcas, otters and sea lions are visible year round and harbor seals and their pups are most commonly seen in May and June.

The natural curiosity of many marine mammals and the relative unobtrusiveness of a kayak can bring man and mammal in close proximity. But that "whale's-eye-view" also carries a responsibility.

It is a federal offense to harass, or approach within 100 yards, any marine mammal or to intentionally enter its travel corridor. It's not unusual, however, to have marine animals approach a kayak, sometimes within a few feet.

For a special view of winged wildlife, simply look up. The San Juans boast an astonishing variety of beautiful and unusual birds that either call the islands home or use the islands while migrating.

Jake Schuman, a San Juan resident and kayak guide for the past three years, believes offseason can be the best for bird watching.

"Cormorants, bald eagles, auklets, blue herons - bird watching is really excellent right now and during non-peak visitor times," he said. "You're able to see them clearly . . . and without the extra noise from people and boat traffic, you can actually hear them much better. It's not only pleasant to hear them, but they're easier to spot or follow during flight."

Viewing the islands from the ocean's vantage point is a lesson in history, geology and marine science. Carved by glacier activity more than 14,000 years ago, the islands that make up the San Juan Archipelago have mountain peaks as high as 2,409 feet - Mount Constitution on Orcas - and more than 375 continuous miles of saltwater shoreline.

While water temperatures vary only slightly throughout the year - approximately 45 degrees in early spring to 55 degrees in late summer - the combination of cold water and dramatic currents make the waters clear enough to easily observe kelp beds and schools of fish from kayaks.

Judging weather - and water conditions - during offseason can be tricky, especially from the mainland. A gray and rainy day in Seattle could be blue and warm in the islands; call for weather information or check in with a kayak guide service.

While the islands of San Juan, Orcas and Lopez are the most accessible by ferry and offer the easiest launching site, hundreds of other islands offer their own unique beauty to the day paddler.

Lummi, Burrows and Saddlebag are accessible from Anacortes; Patos, Matia and Sucia are best reached from Orcas and Stuart islands and John's Pass are for the more experienced paddlers launching from San Juan.

Catching the beauty of the islands on film is one of the biggest pluses of offseason kayaking. The islands are lush, green and beginning to fill with wildflowers.

The precaution of slipping a camera with neck strap down into your life vest, or sliding it into a dry bag, will protect the camera from spray while paddling.

Whether you choose to kayak on your own using private equipment, rent equipment on the islands or use a licensed guide or tour company is an individual choice. Most kayak shops or guide services in the islands will not rent equipment to an individual without prior knowledge of that person's ability, so it's wise to call in advance.

Private equipment may be taken onto the ferries by vehicle or by a foot passenger. Kayaks mounted on top of a vehicle and reaching higher than 7 feet, 2 inches will result in a surcharge.

Passengers boarding ferries by foot with their kayaks are subject to a small stowage fee. More important, they will face either a significant walk once arriving in the islands or the additional cost of a taxi or shuttle service. Most shuttles do not begin service allowing for passengers with kayaks until June. Launches are no longer allowed adjacent to ferry landings, and the closest public beach to the San Juan dock, for example, is 1.2 miles down the coast.

If offseason paddling means fewer boats on the water and less visitor traffic onshore, it also means less help should you become disabled while on the water. Paddling with a companion is always recommended; paddling with an experienced guide can provide even more detailed information on tide and current characteristics unique to each coastline.

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Transportation: Ferry, sea plane and cruise line schedules may be subject to change during offseason; it's best to call for boarding times and to verify special stowing or baggage fees for kayaks.

Hotels: Rates for hotels and bed-and-breakfast inns may have lower rates before Memorial Day weekend; call the San Juan Visitor's Center at (360) 468-3663 for referrals and rate information.

Outfitters: Many kayak outfitters don't open until June 1. Orcas Island operators Shearwater (360) 376-4699 and Osprey (360) 376-3677 are open year-round, weather permitting, and San Juan outfitter Crystal Seas (360) 378-7899 offer seasonal from early April. Reservations are always recommended and it's also recommended that you call for confirmation and weather conditions just before your trip.

Camping: There are public campgrounds available on some of the larger islands, which include picnic, day-use and overnight facilities. Permits or use fees may be required at some locations. For information, contact the San Juan Visitor Center or the state of Washington Department of Natural Resources.

Dress: Dressing warmly and in layers is recommended during cool, offseason months. The usual accessories - sunscreen, sun block for lips, hat and lightweight jacket - are recommended, as well as water, snacks and, if you get a little queasy in choppy water, a remedy for motion sickness.