The Mecca Guys Are Back To Launch A New, Urbane Line

This weekend marks the local launch of a new line of menswear with a sportive, high-tech twist. The trio that designed it includes two Seattle natives, who've already enjoyed one fashion success.

Tony Shellman, 30, and Lando Felix, 25, are former Madrona residents who along with Evan Davis, 33, entered the business three years back. They did it with a legendary line called Mecca USA: jeans, T-shirts and jackets that helped pioneer "urban style." Backed by the Seattle firm International News, Mecca sold $20 million worth of clothing in three seasons.

Now the trio is returning home to "break" a new line, one they call ENYCE (pronounced en-EE-chee). It will be shown at Nordstrom stores and The Showbox. ENYCE's spring collection includes casual shirts, windbreakers, signature suit-and-trouser sets, shorts and baggy trousers. "It's not just for young cats," stresses Shellman. "It's for the well-rounded, urbane city customer."

Shellman and Felix, graduates of Nathan Hale and O'Dea high schools, respectively, say the local launch is a gesture to friends and mentors. Many of those old pals are now asking questions like, how did the trio launch yet another company? Why did they leave their success at Mecca behind?

Things just change, begins an ebullient Shellman. But there were also principles at stake, adds Felix. Says he, "Mecca started with a revelation. Kids were getting their looks from different stores. Shoes from Foot Locker, baggy jeans at Nordstrom, funky tops from some streetwise boutique. We knew we could do an integrated line - and make it logo-driven, with a sporty flair."

It was a winning formula. But, says Felix, that caused the problems. "We felt we were being pigeonholed - as hip-hop designers. Plus, the label's aims became more financial. We felt customers were overcharged." So in February 1996, the founding trio left together.

They were courted almost immediately by a chain of firms including sportswear's top five. But the deal they struck was with Italy's Fila SPA, for whom they design a line called "Fila Lifestyle." The company was so taken with their first collection, they gave Shellman, Davis and Felix their own label. It was Felix who dubbed it ENYCE. He says it is "kind of like having a secret, because no one ever really says it right."

The new styles have a hip-hop edge, but they're very grown-up and much more global. This is top-shelf, athletic leisure-wear: products aimed at a bold, yet mature, consumer.

Much of this is accomplished through the choice of fabrics, a subject on which the team waxes lyrical. "Let's start with our shorts and trousers," says Felix. "We use an Irish denim called double ringspun. It creates this incredible flexibility. And, because of the weight, it drapes much better."

Anything and everything can inspire the trio: thrift shops, Asian markets and trips to the Caribbean. One shirt was inspired by a tablecloth. Shellman: "We searched the world to find who made it! Then we wrestled with, what color should it be? We really think the upcoming thing is fabrics. Like crepe boucle - who would expect guys like us to use that?"

Felix leans forward. "People ask, `So what inspires you? Are you always hangin' out in the street?' And we're like, no way! We're in the hardware shop, the copy center. All kinds of stuff teaches us, just cool little trinkets."

This team's fashion resume is a long one. Shellman "got creative around 15," entered retail with a job at Nordstrom, then worked at the Zebra Club boutique in the '80s.

Shellman says he "drags Lando into everything I do." Felix nods. "It's absolutely true! Tony made me work at Zebra. Then, what I thought was a cool way to get discounts slowly started becoming my career."

When Shellman moved to New York and Parsons School of Design, Felix followed one year later. After both finished at Parsons, they took separate jobs. Jointly, these efforts covered a dozen firms, including Cross Colours, Urban Issue and Canal Jeans. They continued trading skills and contract jobs - and they soon found a third partner: Davis.

These three friends realized they had business balance. Shellman was experienced at marketing, Felix at production, Davis at finance. Plus, they had compatible views on fashion. In 1994, Shellman made a decision: He would try to start a company on his own. Davis would get the financing, Felix would help design.

Although Felix and Shellman were then roommates, it was weeks since they'd met face-to-face. Felix: "I was traveling for another job. But I was willing to quit, so we made a date. We stayed up two days and nights, designing. The day after, Tony flew out to Seattle. And he sold it to International News."

Shellman phoned Felix, they met in Hong Kong - and celebrated the launch of Mecca.

Three years later, here they are back in Seattle. Says Felix: "We just had to show ENYCE here. We learned so much growing up in Seattle. We learned all this stuff from local lines. It's been just a major, major influence."

Seattle also shaped the partners' design studio, now an in-house team with 13 players. Felix explains: "I'm Filipino, Evan's white, Tony's African-American. We have employees who are Ukrainian, who are Chinese/Indian, Japanese/Hawaiian. Everyone is very different."

Adds Shellman, "We'll have potlucks in the office. And the foods that people bring in are wild! But that's our strongest suit, that's just what works. We focus on it, and we make it fashion."

Certainly, the recipe is a winner, hailed in magazines from The Source to Essence - not to mention New York's press and trade mags. All note both ENYCE's trend-setting flair and its fastidious choices of fabric and color. Plus, there are its funky product names.

Shellman chuckles. "All the spring stuff's named for old TV shows: like `Scooby-Doo' or `Chico & the Man.' For summer pieces, it was cigars. We gave all those titles like Monte Cristo." ENYCE's autumn clothes are named for New York clubs, such as Robots, Roxy and the Limelight.

"It's just kinda stale," interjects Felix, "if you're working in the studio and you have to yell, `Oh, gimme number 1081!' It's much better to yell for a Roxy or Romeo."

"Our buyers," he adds, "they're real cool with it. They stand right with us; we're always shoulder to shoulder."

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ENYCE show

ENYCE Spring 1997 will be shown 4 to 6 p.m. today at Nordstrom in Tacoma, noon to 2 p.m. tomorrow at Nordstrom in Bellevue Square, and 3:30 to 5:30 p.m. at the Southcenter store. On Sunday, The Source magazine presents an ENYCE launch party at the Showbox, featuring fashions plus Tha Alkaholiks, local hip-hop crew Oraclez Creed and DJ B-Mello. Doors open at 8 p.m.; entry is $10. Further information, 609-5303.