Distiller Turns Humble Spud Into Smooth, Trendy Vodka

What is apparently one of the hot, new upscale vodkas on the market has emerged from our own back yard. And it's made from Idaho spuds.

Already in wide distribution around the country and duly noted by The New York Times recently is Teton Glacier Vodka ($19.95 at Washington State Liquor Stores).

The new vodka, distinctive in its classy square-cut decanter, comes from a small distiller in Rigby, Idaho, and really is made from potatoes. Most vodkas today (including those from Russia) are made from grains such as wheat, rye or corn. This one has been highly praised for its very smooth character and lack of the "bite" often associated with vodkas.

Just so you won't think this reporter missed the whole story, I actually did come across this Idaho vodka several years ago while researching a story on vodka. After admiring its clean, crisp taste, I phoned the little Silver Creek distillery in Idaho and interviewed them on their unique product. They had decided to produce a vodka from the local potatoes and Rocky Mountain water that does not require distillation. The name Teton comes from the fact that Rigby is at the western end of the Teton Mountain Range. But I was unable to print the story here as it was not yet available in Washington.

But now Teton Glacier Vodka is on shelves at state liquor stores and apparently selling quite well. Upscale American made vodkas continue to chip away at the rather expensive imported varieties. Probably the best known one nationally is the Skyy brand from San Francisco (also available here). Another, Rain Vodka, is distilled in Kentucky and uses organically grown grain and is filtered through diamond dust. It may be coming here soon.

Which brings me to the subject of grains versus potatoes in vodka. Legend persists that early vodkas were distilled from potatoes. But vodka (the word Voda means water in Russian) was originally made sometime in the 14th century in Russia or perhaps Poland or Latvia, long before potatoes reached the Old World from the Western Hemisphere. The later use of potatoes is somewhat shrouded in mystery. Recent research indicates that vodka originally was made from grains, but when these came into short supply, potatoes were used instead. At any rate, spuds have never been in such sophisticated use.

Tip of the week

If you haven't picked up on the Taft wines from Sonoma for bargains, January is your chance. The nicely made '95 chardonnay from Taft is about $9.50 for the month and the flavorful '95 sauvignon blanc is $7.

Wine by Tom Stockley appears Wednesday in the Food section of The Times.