News Bites

-- Leo Varchetta (of Leo Melina, 96 Union St.) admits he doesn't dine elsewhere often, "but this little restaurant on Mercer Island is wonderful, and more people should know about it." The find? Sirocco (formerly Chez Cheese, among others), 2448 76th Ave. S.E. (232- 9009). Partners Ellane Culhane (an architect turned chef) and Keith Lake, a wine connoisseur, opened the place in March. Culhane apprenticed in France. Lake recently retired from international trade. Menu is "eclectically esoteric"; more than 200 wine selections. Gorgonzola raviolis in sage cream ($14) are alleged to be a dream.

-- Marie Simmons, a cookbook author and writer of a monthly column for Bon Appetit, will present food samples from her latest, "Fresh and Fast" (published by Chapters, $29.95), at Sur la Table, 84 Pine St., from 12:30 to 1:30 p.m. tomorrow. It's an attractive, useful work. Simmons' column is syndicated in more than 80 newspapers. Plan to eat chickpea puree with lemon and mint over toasted pita triangles. Info: 448-2244.

-- Major changes in the works for TestaRossa Stuffed Pizza, 210 E. Broadway (328-0878). Owner Andrea Wenet's wholesale business is expanding so rapidly ("We sold as much wholesale last year - in one year - as we did in our previous nine years at the restaurant. . .") that a move and a change of focus is in order. Expect a move to a new, larger space this autumn. "We'll still do a flagship restaurant - I think that's critical." The Chicago-style pizzas are now in 40 Washington stores (all the PCCs) and 14 in Oregon.