Lemon, Strawberry Brews? Seasonal Beers Are Wild

It's either the phase of the moon or mid-summer madness, but the ingredients of seasonal beers and beverages are getting wild and wacky.

Would you believe lemon brews? Or, a beer named Strawberry Blonde? What about Redhook's new concoction containing coriander and dried orange peel? Then, there's a new spring water flavored with caffeine. No, I'm not making this up, it's all on your store shelves as we speak.

I'll say one thing about these bizarre beverages, after sampling all of them this week, they are refreshing and just right for summer sipping. Lemon seems to be the big theme, as two major brews have appeared, both quite refreshing. And the caffeine-infused water? It's from (where else?) Seattle.

If your thirst needs quenching and you're adventuresome enough to try something entirely different (I dare you!) here are my notes on what's new on the market: Most sell in the $1.25 to $1.50 range per bottle.

Redhook Wit (Blueline): As soon as I heard about Redhook's latest "blueline" beer (special seasonal brews available only in draft) I hustled over to the Trollyman Pub at the Fremont brewery for a pint. Of all these seasonal concoctions, this is the most serious and traditional and is geared for connoisseurs. Wit is a historic Belgian beer not unlike a hefe weizen in color and body. It is likewise unfiltered and almost orangy in color. I liked it for its flavorful, refreshing character. Although a summer brew it also is full-bodied and quite rounded. The Belgian yeast strains have added spicy aromas. Finally, dried orange peel and coriander have been added for aromas and flavor. Wit beer will be available through summer at various Seattle watering holes and, of course, pubs at both Redhook breweries.

One-Eyed Jack (alcohol lemon brew): The wicked-looking bee on the label is saying, "Pucker up baby!" And you almost need to with the full lemony character of this summer refresher from the Thick Head Beverage Co. of Pennsylvania. It's something of an adult lemonade with about the same alcoholic content as a beer. I poured it for a group and it was thumbs-up all around.

Two Dogs Lemon Brew: The Although Australian-inspired, this is actually brewed in Detroit and is considered a malt beverage. It's lighter in lemon flavor than One-Eyed Jack, but quite fresh and easy to drink on a warm summer's day.

Pete's Wicked Strawberry Blonde: There's just something irreverent about Pete's Wicked brews that tickles my fancy as well as palate. Not that Pete doesn't make traditional brews including ales, pilsners and amber ales. But the St. Paul brewery also gets crazy with such things as maple porter and this new one, Strawberry Blonde. Yes, there really is strawberry flavoring added, but just a hint to what is actually a nicely made and very drinkable brew with a beautiful golden copper hue. Look for Pete's Summer Brew as well, an amber pale ale brewed with wheat and a touch of lemon. (There's that lemon again!)

Widmer Widberry: Portland's top brewery (and a best seller here) is likewise experimental and uses natural black raspberry flavors in this wheat beer. The scent of raspberry is very dominant in the aromas and slightly less so in the flavor. "It's a beer with berries, not the other way around," says the label. It's another refreshing summer sipper, but one had better like raspberry.

High Water (artesian spring water with caffeine): Tasting this Northwest water from the Cascades, one wouldn't know it had caffeine or vitamin C, which have been added according to the label. We're also told it is "high octane" and "energy for your soul." High Water comes in a 17-ounce plastic bottle with a snap-up sports top for quick sipping. I found it simply fresh and clean and didn't seem to notice any effects later. The label doesn't tell us how much caffeine has been added, but does mention 25 percent vitamin C of the established daily value. It was bound to happen in Seattle.

Wine by Tom Stockley appears Wednesday in the Food section of The Times. Now offered on The Seattle Times InfoLine, Tom Stockley gives weekly tips and advice for choosing wines. To hear the recorded messages, call 464-2000 on a touch-tone phone and then enter category WINE (9463). Calls to InfoLine are free in the greater Seattle area.