Hawaii -- Touring Honolulu's Chinatown

In Chinatown, eight is a lucky number, red and gold are lucky colors, dogs and carp keep evil spirits away, and a bowl full of noodles on your birthday symbolizes long life. But don't cut your noodles, because you'll be cutting your life short.

Such is the mystery of Honolulu's Chinatown, the oldest Chinese quarter in the U.S.

Today, it's also one of the most authentic Asian communities in the country, populated by Chinese, Japanese, Filipinos, Koreans and Vietnamese.

The first Chinese came to Hawaii in 1788 as crew members on British ships. Between 1876 and 1897, more than 46,000 Chinese were brought to Hawaii to work in the sugar-cane fields. After completing their contracts, many opened shops in the heart of present-day Chinatown.

The mostly wood quarter was accidentally demolished in 1900 by a fire, intended to halt the spread of bubonic plague. Therefore, today's buildings, constructed of lava rock and red stone, date from 1900 and beyond.

You won't find many tourists in this neighborhood. While Chinatown is not a place you want to be after dark, a visit during the day is a safe and splendid treat for the senses.

The quarter is small but packed - easily explored on foot. Most shops are around Maunakea and King streets. Begin early, when the locals do their marketing, and stay for lunch.

Begin in the heart of Chinatown. Wander through Oahu Market, an open-air emporium offering an exotic bounty of Asian vegetables;

seafood such as Kona crab and male octopus; and cherry-red ducks and chickens, whose gaudy color comes from being roasted in a sweet, red marinade.

Indulge in a coffee and giant croissant from Bale bakery across the street. Or, take a table at neighboring Sea Fortune for Hong Kong-style dim sum.

According to Chinese legend, dim sum (translated as "heart's delight") was created for an emperor who demanded a new food and offered his daughter in marriage as a reward. All the food was presented to the emperor in small portions. Similar to dumplings, each morsel is made of rice-flour dough filled with meat, fish or vegetables.

As waitresses roll metal carts past each table, merely point and nod if you like what's in the tiny bamboo steam basket as the lid is raised.

After the teapot is emptied, venture forth on a full stomach to explore more. Shops sell everything from lotus leaves and sandalwood incense to rice noodles.

The oldest noodle factory here is Eagle Noodles, on Maunakea Boulevard. The curious may walk through the narrow rooms and watch men - coated in flour - pound, knead and cut the massive quantities of dough.

The only Chinese bakery in the quarter is Shung Chong Yoein (1027 Maunakea). A confection in itself, the bakery is decorated with colored paper lanterns and ornaments, not the least of which are the sweet commodities themselves, arranged in glass cases.

Char Hung Sut on North Pauahi Street makes some of the best dim sum on the island, mostly for other restaurants. Walk-in customers order at the kitchen counter.

Hotel Street is the main artery, a two-lane street pulsing through the heart of Chinatown. It was once lined with hotels. As ships docked, sailors would simply run from the harbor to the hotels and neighboring bars.

Two Jacks Bar is one of the oldest bars still operating on Hotel Street, and it provides a good vantage point for people-watching.

Honolulu's most popular lei stands, Cindy's and Lin's , are both on Maunakea. Leis are exchanged in the islands to celebrate special moments and good fortune.

Maunakea Marketplace, a courtyard surrounded by shops, is a gathering place for the quarter's residents, who sip Vietnamese-style coffee or play mah-jongg at the outdoor tables. Inside, an extensive food court offers inexpensive lunches, including Spam sushi.

Find Chinatown downtown, near the harbor, bounded by Nimitz Highway, Nuuanu Avenue and Beretania and River streets. The Waikiki Trolley stops at the Asian Mall and Maunakea Marketplace.

For walking tours, contact Chinatown Historical Society, (808) 521-3044; Chinese Chamber of Commerce, (808) 533-3181; and Hawaii Heritage Center, (808) 521-2749.