Steel Wool And Elbow Grease Restore Floor And Screens

Q: I have two questions for you, about two different problems. Our 38-year-old dark oak wood floors could probably use a refinishing, but I just can't cope with the tremendous amount of dust, moving furniture, etc. Got a do-it-yourself solution that doesn't require a machine sander, maybe just elbow grease and a good wax?

Second question: About that mineral buildup on aluminum, especially on screens and exterior window frames - a good coat of wax deters it in the beginning, but if that's not there and the damage has begun, what's your best way of getting it off?

A: I've had some experience refinishing hardwood floors, and emphatically agree with your interest in avoiding this process if possible. In an effort to do that, I've had great luck using fine steel wool (No. 0000) and Old English Oil, which is available in neutral and dark shades at hardware stores and supermarkets. If your floors are dark-colored (like walnut, mahogany or dark oak finish), the Old English Dark oil actually has some stain in it to help conceal surface scratches and bring up the color on worn areas.

Working with the grain, rub down the entire floor with the steel wool, dipping it in the oil as it dries out, and replacing the steel wool pads as they wear down (you'll run through quite a few, depending on the size of the room). Let it soak in for half an hour or so, and buff it thoroughly with an absorbent cloth.

Unless your floors are severely damaged, the results should be very pleasing to you, and the floor should remain in good shape for some time.

Heavy traffic and lots of dust and dirt walked onto the floor will shorten this time, but after the original labor-intensive process with the steel wool, future applications can be wiped on with a cloth and buffed, and can be done on an "as needed" basis with other cleaning. And the first application, using steel wool, also helps to remove old wax, small paint spots, surface dirt and some surface stains, too.

It is important to be thorough about buffing the surface completely dry, since excess oil left on the floor can seep into rugs or other absorbent material. Before it is thoroughly buffed dry, the oil on the floor is, well, oily, and consequently slippery. Leaving it overnight and buffing again in the morning before moving things back in is probably wise.

I recently saw one of the floors I "refinished" using this technique more than two years ago, and with regular vacuuming, it still looks great.

One caution: If the finish on your floor is worn down to bare wood in places, the oil will stain the unprotected wood, and you really may have no other recourse than to proceed with full-scale refinishing. I hope for your sake that this is not the case.

The answer to your second question is just as labor-intensive - but, after the first ordeal, you shouldn't have to repeat it for a long time.

Again, our old friend No. 0000 steel wool can be used with a little WD-40 to scrub down nearly all aluminum window frames. For screens, we have used WD-40 and a wire brush with the screen laid flat on some nonabsorbent surface, like a plastic drop cloth over a table. Gentle brushing is all that is required; you don't want to cause your screens to bulge or tear. If the screens are not corroded, but just dirty, a soft brush and soapy water will clean them up fine.

It is important to wipe off any residue of the WD-40 with a soft cloth or paper towel, especially from the screens, since an oily surface will actually attract dust and dirt in the future.

A paste wax, like a car wax, can be applied to the clean, smooth surfaces to slow the pitting and corrosion, as you said.

TIP OF THE WEEK

Not being a rocket scientist, I don't always comprehend why certain things work the way they do. But I do know when they do work, and here are two things that do: Paint cans, closed tightly, will preserve the paint longer and better if stored upside down. And when working with latex paints, dampening the brush with water before you start painting (damp, not dripping) will make cleaning the brush easier.

Mark Hetts' home repair column runs as space allows in the Home/Real Estate section. Send questions and comments to: Mr. HandyPerson, P.O. Box 70, Seattle, WA 98111.