Java Gems -- The Espresso Stand Is To US What Hot-Dog Carts Are To N.Y. And Noodle Shops To Tokyo

A few years ago, I walked up to a little sidewalk stand and plunked down a few bills and several coins to purchase a large cup of brown liquid. Taking in a big sip my immediate impulse was to heave it into the nearby gutter. Nothing had ever tasted so ghastly on my tongue.

A nightmarish experience at an off-brand espresso vendor using sour milk? Worse. I was on a street corner in Moscow at a stand selling "kvas," a drink made from fermented bread that is as popular in that city as lattes are here. And my drink was served in a common, and clearly unwashed, glass. A few days later, I had a full case of Lenin's revenge.

Kvas is obviously an acquired taste. But like our espresso stands, kvas kiosks are found throughout Moscow. They are one of the things that tell you that you are in the capital city of Russia. A number of major cities throughout the world have their own little unique sidewalk symbols.

Paris has its bouquinistes purveying books, posters and assorted bric-a-brac; New York its hot-dog carts; Tokyo its little noodle shops with thin cloth banners separating customers' backs and passersby. In a similar fashion, the image of metropolitan Seattle - and by this I mean from Bellingham to Vancouver and Seaview to Spokane - is now partly defined by the presence of espresso stands.

We have had coffeehouses and coffee bars for several decades, but the wheeled carts and free-standing roadside kiosks that have sprung up by the thousands over the past 10 years now give us a character unlike most other places in the country.

Many of these stands are pretty uninspired in their appearance. Some are downright tacky. From time to time, it occurs to me that there should be a statewide law that forbids anyone from using T-11 plywood siding and sandwich board signs taller than four feet. Certainly there should be a ban on any use of the word "expresso." By now people who want to keep their regional passports should know the letter in the word is an "s," not an "x."

Some of the folks who run these places really have caught on to their potential to create little oases along otherwise hard-edged streets. Their stands or carts are occasionally labors of love with carefully chosen color schemes, great graphics and elegant furnishings. A few permanent stands have added landscaping, tables and decks. These are wonderful little bits of urban design, crafted by hand and fitted into their surroundings.

Free-spirited style

Whether I'm in the mood for coffee or not, I always glance at "Commuter Comforts" kiosk near the ferry terminal on Bainbridge Island. It is a visual treat and the owner always keeps it as neat as a pin. Likewise, the little hole-in-the-wall of "Just Say Espresso" in Ballard is attractive and immaculate.

While Starbucks, Seattle's Best Coffee and Caffe d'Arte give us snazzy corporate interiors and graphic design, it is remarkable to see so many small scale entrepreneurs do a decent job of combining sales, service and style. Often the home-grown results are far more homey. Certainly they are more free-spirited and funky.

It seems that, as gas stations gradually disappear from streets, they are being replaced by espresso stands. Along some busy arterials, they seem to be at every intersection. Like the roadside diners of an earlier era, they often announce themselves with a distinctive design. For example, the "Espresso Connection" stand at 47th and Evergreen Way in Everett presents a welcome relief to the unrelenting swatch of car lots and discount stores. This little kiosk is nicely proportioned and topped with globe lights. There is a sunken plaza outfitted with tables and chairs right on the corner.

Contributors to community

Down in Des Moines, Debra Dapelo's stand occupies a tiny cottage-like structure that once held a watch shop. She has installed a delightful patio out front, complete with plants and hanging flower baskets. The atmosphere indicates that the owner is as much interested in contributing to the community image as running a business.

Throughout Seattle, there are now hundreds of coffee carts occupying sidewalks, plazas and entrances to stores. One of the most interesting is Espresso di Mucci located at the entrance court to the Norton Building. Here a basic cart has been embellished with decorative wing panels and an elegant umbrella. A clutch of high-tech chairs and tables adds a sophisticated touch to the well-landscaped public space. When it rains, the cart is pulled through an opening in a bower of ivy into an arcade along the building's facade.

Perhaps the best-designed stand in the city is not actually a free-standing one although it embraces the sidewalk in a similar way. The stand at Bulldog News on University Avenue Northeast faces both inward and outward. A simple awning with the logo announces the place from a distance, while the counter top is fully open to the people walking by. The combination of two stimulants - magazines and caffeine - is urbane and exquisite.

Places like these display an energy and a sense of style that enliven our streets and sidewalks. In an era when so many of our consumer choices are being narrowed to those offered by gargantuan chains, the presence of all these sparks of individualism is encouraging. ----------------------------------------------------------------- Mark L. Hinshaw is a private consultant who provides urban design services to local governments. His column runs monthly in the Home/Real Estate section of The Seattle Times.