Sonoma Winery Traces Its Start To A Cigar Box

It was a trip of nostalgia for me to revisit the Korbel sparkling wine cellars along the banks of the Russian River in Sonoma County.

Although the winery is as up-to-date as any, an aura of history surrounds the place. During a tour I was reminded of the epic story of the Korbel brothers and how they began one of California's most successful wineries all because they wanted to make cigar boxes.

Born in what was then Bohemia, they arrived in this country on the heels of an uprising in their country in 1848. Francis, who had been imprisoned and escaped, came first, then he sent for younger brothers Anton and Joseph. Settling in San Francisco around 1860, they went into business making cigar boxes. When their supply of wood ran out, they began looking for another source. That search led them to the Russian River Valley and what was a tiny mill town.

They began buying redwood from the mill and eventually acquired ownership entirely. With a whole mill under their ownership, the brothers began looking about for other business endeavors. One idea was to make brandy and they eventually began to make sparkling wines which has become the mainstay of the firm.

The Korbels sold the property to the Adolph Heck family. During the mid-1960s, as a young reporter in the San Francisco Bay area, I met Anton Korbel, son of the original Anton and one of the last of the family. He was an elderly gentleman whose main interest was showing and judging prize dogs. A fun-loving man in his youth, who played football at the University of Washington, he had little interest in the family winery. A story is told of his family sending him to Europe with money to buy grape cuttings. He returned broke but the proud owner of several German shepherds.

Thankfully the Heck family had the enthusiasm that was lacking and, because of their foresight and keen business sense, the Korbel name has increased in prestige.

Korbel has never ceased making new products that seem to catch the public's fancy. The latest is the new Spiced Brandy, selling in state liquor stores for $11.45. Flavored with a number of spices and including French vanilla, it seems to be a real hit. But Korbel is best known for their sparkling wines at reasonable prices. Here is what I tasted in California.

In checking prices here I discovered several are on special this month.

Korbel Brut Champagne, $11: Probably Korbel's best known, a dry champagne that is fresh, crisp and nicely balanced. It's made from a blend of pinot noir and chardonnay and has become something of a California classic.

Korbel Natural Champagne, $16: For those who like a totally bone dry sparkling wine, this fits the bill. Also made with chardonnay and pinot noir, its lean, clean style makes it just right for appetizers or shellfish.

Korbel Blanc de Noirs, $11: Mostly made from pinot noir, this delightful and refreshing wine is light salmon in color with hints of strawberry and other fresh fruit. It went perfect with our picnic in the nearby redwoods.

Korbel has recently introduced Kosher brut champagne which sells for about $13 and is planning to release several still wines in the near future including (naturally) a chardonnay and a pinot noir. -----------------------------------------------------------------

Wine by Tom Stockley appears Wednesday in the Food section of The Times. On The Seattle Times InfoLine, Tom Stockley gives weekly tips and advice for choosing wines. To hear the recorded messages, call 464-2000 on a touch-tone phone and then enter category WINE (9463). Calls to InfoLine are free in the greater Seattle area.