Woodmark's Tea Time Is Afternoon Delight

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Afternoon tea at the Woodmark Hotel, Carillon Point, Kirkland, 822-3700. Hours: Served daily from 2 to 5 p.m. $13.95 per person. Reservations recommended. Two-hour validated parking. Major credit cards, personal checks accepted. -----------------------------------------------------------------

Whoever said there's nothing more relaxing than a day at the spa apparently never had afternoon tea at the Woodmark Hotel.

To sip "a cuppa" in the hotel's cozy Carillon Room soothes all the senses. Tea time comes complete with sweeping views of Lake Washington, humongous cushy chairs, a crackling fireplace and tables set with linen, china and polished silver. Polite wait staff cater to you for hours as you dine on delicious finger sandwiches, scrumptious scones, tea cakes and fresh berries. And endless pots of tea.

The Woodmark, which opened about five years ago at Carillon Point, stages the stylish afternoon pick-me-up every day from 2 to 5 p.m. in a manner that would please the Duchess of Bedford, who is credited with devising the delightful English ritual in the early 1800s.

It all starts when a crisply dressed server asks you to choose your brew. Jasmine or China Oolong? Perhaps English Breakfast or Black Currant? Maybe Orange Pekoe?

Naturally, leaf tea is served here. Once you've had it, you'll never want to see a tea bag bobbing in hot water again. Loose leaves are scooped into porcelain pots, steeped to perfection and then poured through sterling strainers. The wait staff will be glad to combine several varieties if you ask. I found jasmine with oolong to be, well, my cup of tea.

Not long after your first sip, a dish of sorbet arrives. Perfectly rounded scoops of lemon-lime, rutabaga and raspberry ice come in a fluted glass set on a very proper doily.

Next, the tier arrives. The two-level china tray comes loaded with goodies: bite-sized tea cakes and fresh berries crowd the top plate, finger sandwiches with the crusts properly shaved off, bunches of grapes and carved apples pack the lower. Freshly baked scones are delivered on the side with pots of jam and Devonshire cream.

You may eat the fare in any order you please, but most people start with the scones - light English biscuits that aren't plain but aren't sweet. Use your fingers, not your knife, to split them open. Slather with the Devonshire cream and jam.

Follow with the finger sandwiches: perfectly proportioned morsels of watercress, tomato with fresh basil, and crunchy cucumber.

Top off the repast with tea cakes: black forest chocolate, Grand Marnier, Dutch chocolate and chocolate mousse. There's also a Mandarin orange number and a fabulous treat called Four Nut Tart that's topped with roasted pecans, almonds, walnuts and macadamia nuts dripping in caramel sauce. You must try them all.

If you're still hungry after all this, you can turn your afternoon snack into a feast by adding a platter of smoked seafood ($12.95) or a plate of fresh fruit and cheese ($8.95). But I'm not sure the Duchess would approve.