When Ya Gotta Regatta: America's Cup In San Diego

SAN DIEGO - By 10 o'clock on the first morning of our trip to watch the action at the America's Cup, we had chatted with a member of the New Zealand Cup crew, eavesdropped on Dennis Conner taping a television program and booked space on a spectator boat to see that day's racing action.

And we hadn't broken a sweat.

We had heard that on their way to the docks, crew members often stopped at Marvelous Muffins, a tiny shop on Scott Street on Shelter Island.

As a New Zealand sailor and I stood in line for muffins and coffee, he told me of spending the preceding race perched on a spreader so he could pass down information about wind shifts to the boat's skipper.

Thirty minutes later, behind the Convention Canter, we watched veteran cup skipper, Conner, and Peter Isler, former America's Cup sailor now doing TV commentary, battle a noisy leaf-blowing machine during four takes of an interview for a sailing show.

For a lover of sailing, it was a special experience.

Glamour and excitement

Now, and for the next three months, the world's sailing eyes will be on San Diego for the 29th defense of the America's Cup sailing trophy.

And during that time, racing junkies or just casual weekend sailors can become immersed in what's considered the most glamourous regatta in the sport.

For persons just arriving, finding the various racing compounds is as simple as scanning the horizon. Huge flags of the participating sailing groups from nations including Australia, New Zealand, France, Spain and the United States fly from cranes at the various docks where they moor their boats.

We knew we were in the heart of the activity within minutes of landing at San Diego's main airport when we saw the 110-foot masts of the America boats towering skyward at a dock alongside North Harbor Drive.

With the racing compounds, exhibits and souvenir vendors all within a few miles of each others, visitors can mingle with crews and get close to the boats and racing action.

Approachable celebrities

Seven of the competitors have set up compounds in the south part of Mission Bay in Quivira Basin, just west of Sea World. Two others are a 10-minute drive south on Shelter Island; the other, that of Dennis Connor's Stars and Stripes, is near the Convention Center.

Unlike many professional athletes and film stars, America's Cup sailors are fairly approachable, especially the Australians and New Zealanders.

It's the 29th Cup defense since a crew of Yanks aboard the schooner, America, defeated a fleet of 15 British schooners in the first competition, a race around the Isle of Wight in the English Channel in 1851.

The Americans held it until 1983 when John Bertrand led an Australian campaign that defeated Conner. Representing the San Diego Yacht Club, Conner, in 1987, defeated the Aussies in Fremantle, Western Australia.

Many sailors say winds off San Diego are too light and unpredictable for such an important race, especially when compared with the high winds and waves experienced during the Fremantle Series in 1987. Stategic spots

Here are some suggestions for sailors who might want to see some of the America's Cup action this winter and spring in San Diego:

Shelter Island has several motels with waterfront views. Budget motels are available within three miles. For celebrity watching, try the fancier Kona Kai hotel on the island. The daily post-race press conferences are held there. There are motels near Mission Bay as well.

Team New Zealand and the Japanese Nippon Challenge are on Shelter Island Drive, across the street from America's Cup headquarters. The America compound, home of the first all-woman crew to sail the regatta, is within easy walking distance.

Exploring Shelter Island is like being at a large, outdoor boat show. Streets are lined with sail lofts and chandleries. The America's Cup itself, a 27 inch tall, 134-ounce chunk of silver, is on on display at the San Diego Yacht Club, also on Shelter Island. If you're a member of a yacht club with reciprocal privileges, you'll be able to walk right in. If not, it's worth a try to talk with the doorman to get in.

The racing compounds usually are not open to visitors, although some may be opened to the public Feb. 25 and March 14.

But we found alleys and driveways adjacent to the compounds from which we could get close looks at the boats.

Watching boats leaving America's Cup Harbor on Shelter Island was as simple as finding a path overlooking the harbor entrance behind the Bali Hai restaurant, where we were close enough to the New Zealand boat, Black Magic, to read her hull graphics, and to hear the Japanese crew aboard Nippon as the boats passed.

Mission Bay, the 4,600 acre aquatic park where seven of the sailing syndicates have their boats, is a 10-minute drive from Shelter Island. It also offers biking and jogging paths, 27 miles of beaches, Sea World, a golf course, a board walk and amusement park.

A highlight of the trip to Mission Bay was a close viewing of the American contender Young America as it headed to sea through the narrow harbor entrance, its hull graced by a 70-foot mermaid painted by artist Roy Lichtenstein.

It took a special effort to find Conner's compound, which is on Gateway Center Drive behind the Convention Center. But it was worth it. We saw the $5 million boat, Stars and Stripes, lowered into the water by a crane. The secret of the boat's keel design hidden by a plastic tarp.

The Chart House deck next door is a good spot to sip a drink and watch the boats on their return.

The race course

The races are held on two 18-mile courses off Point Loma, just south of Mission Bay and Shelter Island. Here's the format:

Three American boats sail against each other on one course in a round robin series ending in April. The winner represents the U.S.

On the other course, seven foreign challengers compete.

The final races between challenger and defender, a nine-race series to determine the winner of the America's Cup, begin May 6.

Depending upon wind conditions, challenger races start at 11:30 a.m., defenders an hour later. With careful planning it's possible to watch four races each day.

Spectator boats provide a good vantage; seats cost $25 and up.

A three day trip left us thirsting for more Cup action, and the opportunity to explore Balboa Park, the Zoo, and other San Diego-area attractions. Ed Lawrence, an outdoor and adventure writer, lives on Orcas Island.

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Following the America's Cup

-- America's Cup Info Line: Phone (619) 221-1212 for information on racing schedules and open-house days at racing compounds. For information on the America's Cup competition, call America's Cup '95, (619) 221-1995.

-- The Spectator Fleet: Phone (619) 225-9595, for information on harbor charter boat operators.

-- Hotel reservations: Phone (800) 728-3227 for area lodging options.

-- General information: San Diego Visitors Bureau, (619) 232-3101.

America's Cup schedule

-- Today: Round 1, Defender and Challenger Selection.

-- Feb. 14: Round 3, Defender and Challenger Selection.

-- March 2: Round 4, Defender and Challenger Selection.

-- March 18: Semifinals, Defender and Challenger.

-- April 10-22: Challenger and Defender Selection Finals.

-- May 6-20: America's Cup Match Races, (best of nine).