Schumsky's Delights With Meat, Potatoes

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Schumsky's SeaTac Restaurant, 2825 S. 188th St., SeaTac; 242-3663. Hours: Sunday through Thursday 6 a.m. to 11 p.m., Friday and Saturday, until midnight. Full bar, major credit cards accepted. -----------------------------------------------------------------

It's reported that since Newt Gingrich and his posse rode into Dodge this year there's been a shift in taste in our nation's capitol. A lot more than policy is getting changed.

The consumption of white wine and dainty nouvelle cuisine is becoming almost as scarce as Democrats. The newcomers seem more partial to red meat and hard liquor. It's all part of that swing back to so-called all-American back-to-basics. "Comfort food" without concern for cholesterol has become contagious in the Capitol.

Not that the Capitol has a corner on comfort (or that it ever has). The diner and the kind of American cooking these humble spots represent have been making a quiet comeback for some time. But where some restaurants are just now trying to jump on the bandwagon, Schumsky's SeaTac Restaurant has had that bandwagon in its parking lot - and the kitchen - for decades.

Recently the evening specials were All You Can Eat BBQ Ribs ($9.95) or fried pork chops with mash potatoes in brown gravy ($8.95).

In fact the first dinner items on the menu are New York steak ($10.95); top sirloin steak ($9.50) and teriyaki top sirloin steak ($9.50). It isn't until you get to the chicken teriyaki ($8.95) and chicken Parmesean that you'll find any fowl, but we really couldn't find any fault with that. All the meats sampled were tender and tasty and properly prepared. The helpings were generous, the service prompt and personable and nothing was over priced.

While Schumsky's is more than a diner - it is a real-deal restaurant - it still maintains the "Diner Line" side of the menu: old-fashioned pot roast ($8.50); chicken fried steak ($8.50); veal cutlets ($8.95); and liver and onions ($8.95) lead that list.

During a recent visit we decided to try a little of the old-new with the new-old. We put the stir-fried vegetables ($5.95) up against the old-fashioned pot roast. A side-by-side style and taste test.

The vegetables were fine. Fresh cauliflower, broccoli, green peppers, onions, mushrooms, carrots and tomatoes were sauteed in white wine and lemon. It was fragrant and filling, although a side of rice would have been nice.

But the Pot Roast was complete, almost overwhelming. The meat fell apart at the mere mention of a fork. The potatoes were nicely whipped and the gravy was smooth and richly satisfying. Yes, a real comfort.

Schumsky's offers plenty of burgers, all under $6, and lots of salads, soups and sandwiches as well, but there's one other featured item that makes this Seatac spot all-American:

Pie. Homemade, of course. So many varieties your waitress won't be able to list them all in one breath.