Koffee Kup Cafe: Real Food, Real Folks

----------------------------------------------------------------- Restaurant review

The Koffee Kup Cafe, 1128 S. Albro Place, Georgetown. 763-3803. Open Monday through Friday 5 a.m. to 4 p.m., Saturday 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. No alcohol. No credit cards accepted. -----------------------------------------------------------------

More years back than I care to think about, I worked in Georgetown. And like too many jobs, it was one where you looked forward to lunch more than anything else in the day. I was always cruising around Georgetown's odd mixture of industrial buildings and old residential neighborhoods, hoping to find little joints with good, affordable food.

My favorite was Hatcher's Cafe, which is what the Koffee Kup Cafe used to be called. The original name is still on the little Royal Crown Cola sign that hangs over the door.

But it's The Koffee Kup now, and that name is boldly painted on the side of the green building that sits across the street from the north end of Boeing Field. Next to the name is the simple declaration "Good Food," and that still fits, too.

The big favorite at Hatcher's - and the tradition is continued by the Kup - was the hand-formed hamburgers. There was something esthetically pleasing about a burger that was made by human hands instead of machinery. It symbolized "homemade." The patties also tended to stay a little more pink in the center, although that may not be as popular a way to get your meat these days. Still, it remains a more than decent burger, coming topped with all the necessary toppings and healthy side of crisp fries for $4.25. Another 20 cents gets you cheese on top.

But the ground beef specialty is the 777 Burger. The $4.95 sandwich is made on a French roll with grilled onions, green pepper, olive, bacon, mushrooms and American and Swiss cheese. The Kup also offers a pretty nice patty melt for $4.95.

This is a worker's restaurant, so the day starts early and breakfasts are hearty. Three eggs with toast and hash browns goes for $3.95. There are an assortment of omelets starting at $3.75 and if you want to keep it country simple, biscuits and gravy for $2.75. There are breakfast specials between 5 a.m. and 10 a.m.

Lunch specials run from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. The soups are decidedly homemade, so while the sign may say tomato rice, don't expect Campbell's. What you're likely to get is a whole garden full of vegetables along with that tomato and rice. A cup is $1.45, a bowl $1.75. The restaurant also offers a selection of deli sandwiches.

The dinner menu is small, but satisfying, the kind of selections you'd expect from a home cookin' cafe. Veal cutlets and chicken-fried steak both run $5.95, and the meatloaf and mashed potatoes - always a favorite - is $5.25.

The Koffee Kup Cafe has the feel of time to it, of days gone by. The counter is small and there are just enough tables and chairs.

Tons of memorabilia hangs on every wall, you can almost always find a pile of newspapers to read, and there's even a small bookcase full of paperbacks you can buy or swap.

Everyone knows everyone else, cooks and waitresses cheerfully rib each other and the regulars are friendly.

Even to strangers who haven't been around these parts in a long, long time.