Hungry For A Change? -- What's New? -- Not Much. And Everything.

The French, predictably, had a phrase for it: The more things change, the more they remain the same. But the converse is equally true. The more things seem to remain the same, the more they are, in fact, changing, adapting and evolving.

In the restaurant business, that's sometimes the only constant.

An established chef quits in a huff, and a new "genius" is discovered languishing unappreciated in San Francisco. Joe's Diner, after 20 years of eggs and hash, becomes Chez Joel - with the same staff, now wearing berets.

Menus get reworked, kitchens get upgraded, steady customers who ate only $26 steaks four times a month up and die - and the GM stares at a declining client base and wonders where you go to snare a sushi chef.

Places fail. Simply go belly button up. What happens next? Someone else sells his espresso cart, moves in, repaints the exterior, buys a new sign, changes the lock and dreams a new dream.

Newness, make-overs, change are the leavening of an ever-bubbling hospitality industry: the comings and goings of talent, food fashions and patron preferences. All parading on the cold, hard stages of economic realities.

In this world of near-constant arrivals, departures and scene-shifting, what defines "new"? Probably anything more recent than 18 months. After that, a restaurant has either established itself - or failed.

This year, in our annual autumnal dining issue, several of us - writers, editors, photographers (and dedicated hangers-on) - decided to focus on some of the Puget Sound area's more intriguing "new" arrivals. All are presented in the hope that they will still be in their new incarnations by the time we get their stories into print.

When categorizing change, you have to move fast. The difference between new, old hat and adios is often merely flimsy points of view - or a landlord's weekend whimsy. The recent general trend in all of this seems to be an awakening of smaller, more neighborhood-oriented places, and a continuing trend toward an easy informality.

So in answer to the eternal question "What's new?," here are some savory responses.

---------- NEW PLACES ----------

Assaggio Ristorante, Claremont Hotel, 2010 Fourth Ave. (441-1399). Two natives of Abruzzi, Mauro Golmarvi and Lorenzo Cianciusi, brought this delightful, convivial (and sometimes noisy) regional Italian spot into being just at the end of 1993. Many have contended that it was (and is) the most significant Italian restaurant downtown since the closure of the old Rosellini's 610.

The restaurant's signature dish is Pollo Mattone ($13.95), flattened half of chicken roasted in a brick oven and served over a bed of bread and arugula with a silky coverlet of lemon-wine sauce. Try the Pizza Capricciosa ($8.95) with prosciutto, capers, artichoke hearts, tomato and mozzarella or a splendid Agnello Osso Buco ($14.95), lamb shank simmered long and slow in a tomato and red wine sauce. Terrific ravioli specials.

Lunch 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday through Friday; dinner: 5 to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday; until 11 p.m. Friday, Saturday. Closed Sunday.

Rutabaga, 4857 Rainier Ave. S., Columbia City (723-1089). Owners Mark Hannum and William Filicetti started out with an emphasis on home-style food: "Meatloaf, turkey, stuff you just can't go home and whip up. Nothing pretentious." But they've evolved.

Tabletops are painted by various artists; there's a changing display of art on the walls. But the plates could use a bit more artistic attention. Breakfasts are fine (grand blueberry pancakes), but dinner specials can be hit-and-miss.

A good tapenade appetizer is followed by a soupy Pasta Gorgonzola ($7.50). Then comes a redeeming Double Crust Apple Pie. A friend enjoys a Four Cheese Ravioli ($7.50) in "Julietta Sauce." The next morning, the French Toast is barely dipped in egg wash.

But the place has character and could build to a genuine neighborhood draw.

Pastries, coffee: 9 to 11 a.m. lunch: 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Dinner: 5 to 9 p.m. Monday through Friday; until 9:30 Saturday. Weekend breakfast: 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. Closed Sunday after 2 p.m.

Pirosmani, 2220 Queen Anne Ave. N. (285-3360). One of the more intriguing ethnic newcomers to the city's dinner scene is Pirosmani, a Georgian (as in former U.S.S.R.) eatery named for the folk painter Niko Pirosmani. Chef Laura Dewell, previously with Fullers, is an enthusiastic practitioner of a cuisine that more resembles Mediterranean products and influences than Russian.

Flavors are incredible - and assertive. Tart plum sauce, with dill, marjoram, garlic, mint and cayenne is spread on peasant breads and meats. Dishes ($15-$19.50) have exotic names, like Badri-jani Nigvzit (grilled eggplant over pureed eggplant, and Khinkali (a pork and beef dumpling with spices and mint), but the dining experience is as comforting as it is adventurous.

No lunch. Dinner 5:30 to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday; until 10:30 p.m. Friday, Saturday. Closed Sunday, Monday.

The Longshoreman's Daughter, 3508 Fremont Place N. (633-5169). Lori Mason, who really is a longshoreman's daughter, opened this casual yet artsy hangout a little more than a year ago. It looks like a countercultural import from Greenwich Village circa 1960, but the menu has substance and the people-watching is unmatched.

The biggest draw (other than the PIBs - People in Black) are the freshly made raviolis ($10.95 at dinner, salad included), which vary in makeup daily. But a typical construction might be sweet potato-bell pepper-goat cheese under a lively marinara sauce.

The Hot Tuscan Sandwich ($5.95 at lunch) is worth a side trip to Fremont: marinated eggplant, red bell peppers, sweet red onions served on rustic, grilled Macrina bread.

Breakfasts are bountiful and, especially on weekend mornings, packed.

Despite the Bohemian atmosphere, no smoking allowed.

Breakfast: 7:30 to 11:30 a.m. Monday through Friday; 7:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Saturday, Sunday. Lunch: 11:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. Monday through Friday. Dinner: 5:30 to 10 p.m. nightly.

ENTROS, 823 Yale Ave. N. (624-0057). This semi-industrial space bills itself as the world's only intelligent amusement park, a bustling combination of culinary sophistication and group participation parlor game, with a seasoning of intellectual scavenger hunts.

Sounds zany, but it's fun and the food is more compelling than some of the games. Items like warm duck salad with black cherry vinaigrette, pork satays, a Balinese Pork Tenderloin ($12.75). As a chef put it: "We like to call ourselves a World Grill."

If you just want to eat and drink without undue distraction from gamesters, relax. Most of the mental gymnastics take place in side rooms.

Dinner: 5:30 to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday. Full bar; small smoking section.Closed Sundays and Mondays.

The Bagel and Chocolate Soup Co., 11606 98th Ave. N.E., Kirkland (823-5404). Set in a suburban strip mall a mallard's hop from Juanita Beach, this mix of East Coast ethnicity and a recent regional food fad does a thriving business in bagels, bialys, sandwiches and a namesake dessert-beverage.

You might try the Lox and Auricchio Provolone-Sharp Cheddar Sandwich ($3.75) with a workmanlike cafe latte ($1.70) or the Pesto Bialy ($2.75, but sold out at 2 p.m. Saturday on a recent visit).

The bagels make good sandwiches and toast well, but an East Coast friend thought them too soft to be the real thing. As for the Famous Chocolate Soup ($3.25): "A huge bowl of warm chocolate milk," she said, "topped with just as much whipped cream with two mint cookies floating on it."

But it might be your cup of . . . something.

Breakfast, lunch, snacks: 6 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday through Saturday; 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sunday.

Delcambre's Ragin Cajun, 1523 First Ave. (624-2598). Cajun chef Danny Delcambre is not only deaf, but (with severe tunnel vision) legally blind. But, trained by the legendary Paul Prudhomme, he's a culinary visionary with his other senses. His rich, spicy gumbos, sweet corn muffins and warm, moist slices of jalapeno cheese bread are cause enough for celebration.

Try the chicken and sausage gumbo ($5.95) or the classic Red Beans and Rice ($6.25) with Andouille Sausage (made by Prudhomme and flown in from New Orleans) for some remarkable taste treats.

For dessert you can't beat the Peach Cobbler ($2.25), an explosion of hot peach slices topped with thin petals of rich but light pastry. Order early in the meal. It sells out fast.

Lunch 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday. Dinner: 5 to 8 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday. Closed Sunday, Monday.

Baci, 1513 Sixth Ave., upstairs at Mario's (292-6223). This hidden delight helps the more driven among us to shop through racks of designer clothing, then dart upstairs for Italian designer snacks. Baci, conceived by Marco Casas-Beaux, who founded the original Cactus in Madison Park, serves Merende.

Italian appetizers, panini, antipasti and artful short meals are assembled by chef Erin Richards.

Browse through marinated eggplant or mushrooms, couscous, melon with prosciutto, risotto balls, lentil salads, polenta with mozzarella - all at moderate prices: a torta and salad, for example, at $5.95.

Latest rumor was that Casas-Beaux was planning to spread the concept across the West. It surely hasn't done Mario's any harm, although what it has done to some of the city's well-heeled waistlines is problematic.

From 10 a.m. to to 4 p.m. Monday through Saturday.

Italianissimo, 17650 140th N.E., Woodinville (485-6888). Luciano Bardinelli, over the past decade or so, has become a most-traveled chef, host and man about town (or towns). But always with class and always with authentic northern Italian quality.

His latest venture opened a year ago in a Woodinville shopping mall (go to Molbak's - and keep on going. It's up ahead on the left in something called Towne Center).

Start with a warm spinach salad ($6), with sweetened vinegar, a light olive oil dressing, squares of pancetta, thin rings of marinated red onions - and save room for a splendid Lasagna Bolognese ($9.50) or Veal Scallopine with Olives and Sage ($13.75) or a masterful Osso Buco Milanese ($13.75), "braised for eight hours."

Risotti (around $10) are particularly well-made; we loved a plate of Rissoto with Porcini Mushrooms; sheer velvet and woody fragrance.

Lunch 11 a.m to 5 p.m. daily. Dinner: 5 to 11 p.m. nightly.

Overlake Macheezmo Mouse, 2028 148th Ave. N.E., Bellevue (746-5824). Start with the country's hottest ethnic cuisine, Mexican, stir in a hefty dose of health scare, skim carefully all fats and you end up with a fast-food concept with a sure-fire formula for success.

The M. Mice started out in Portland and have proliferated. The menu looks Tex-Mex, but the emphasis is on the healthier aspects of that cuisine: the rice is brown, the jack cheese is low-fat, the black beans are omnipresent (but bereft of lard) and it all tastes surprisingly good.

This Mouse opened its futuristic nest early this year. Vegetarians love it, but there are meat items available: Chicken Enchilada ($4) for example, with a nice Santa Fe Red Sauce. The Veggie Deluxe Burrito (also $4) is more typical: brown rice, black beans, steamed broccoli, fresh greens, marinated vegetables, guacamole for the daring, and a tortilla.

Expect to see more of them.

From 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Saturday. Noon to 9 p.m. Sunday.

Marco's Supperclub, 2510 First Ave. (441-7801). Testimony to the excellence of this new Belltown arrival was that it was a frequent dining favorite of chef Emily Moore before she departed The Painted Table for San Diego.

The atmosphere is colorful and laid back, mismatched flatware, jars of bright preserved lemons, and an eclectic mix from new chef Phil Mihalski, formerly with the Dahlia Lounge.

We savored the Jamaican Jerk Chicken ($10.95), the Fried Sage Leaf appetizers (with a collection of salsa and a garlic aioli) ($5.95), and the Lamb Charmoula ($12.95) - marinated in cumin, coriander and tumeric - on a bed of spicy couscous.

Owners Donna Moodie and Marco Rulff have turned a hoary old First Avenue tavern into an enticing place that almost cried "hangout!" from the start.

Lunch: 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday through Friday. Dinner: 5:30 to 11 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; until midnight Friday, Saturday. Sunday brunch: 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Coastal Kitchen, 429 15th Ave. E. (322-1145). Peter Levy and Jeremy Hardy have a formula in touch with how people really live - and eat. Pick a neighborhood, like Queen Anne, Wallingford or Capitol Hill (or even downtown; they recently opened a new Luncheonette in the Vic 'n' Mick space), and aim for the casual but discriminating too-beat-to-cook crowd. Create cozy hangouts with variations on East Coast diner food - and step out of the way of gathering droves.

The Coastal Kitchen, in terms of menu, is more ambitious than their other creations, with cuisine changes swinging from the coast of Alabama to the coasts of Spain or Morocco.

Latest offering included Casablanca Kabobs with Lentil Salad ($12.75), a heady Garbanzo Bean Stew ($9.50). A selection of Tapas (around $3) provide great starters or, in ensemble, a whole diverse meal.

From 8:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, until 11 p.m. Friday, Saturday.

Red Hook Brewery tap room (Forecaster's), 14300 N.E. 145th St., Woodinville (483-3232).

When Seattle's most successful craft brewery outgrew its Fremont production facilities and expaned to rural Woodinville, it chose a pastoral setting right across the lane from the Ste. Michelle Winery "chateau."

In time, it may rival the chateau as a tourist attraction. Most of the draw will doubtless be poured through taps, but the kitchen, public room and a massive deck will be part of the attraction.

Paul Shipman, company president, insists the emphasis is still on Northwest ales (Blackhook Porter is a personal favorite), but don't overlook a hearty Beef Stew ($7.25), served in a hollowed-out loaf of Ploughman's bread, the grilled King Salmon Burgers ($7.50) or some remarkable Chicken-apple sausages ($6.75).

For a more snacklike repast, the quesadilla plate ($5.50) with black-bean salad and fresh corn chutney goes exceedingly well with a pint or two of the main attraction.

8:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 8:30 a.m. to midnight Friday; 11 a.m. to midnight Saturday; 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Sunday.

Belltown Pub, 2322 First Ave. (728-4311). The name may be misleading. Like a growing number of Seattle pubs and taverns, the menu is more varied than mere pub grub, more like a bistro or cafe.

You can "dine" well here. Start with an Olive Tapanade ($4.75), a strong melange of minced Calamata, black and green olives served with bread; or the Spinach and Grilled Prawns Salad ($8.50), tossed with mushrooms, grated mozzarella and green olives in a sherry-orange vinaigrette.

The marinated chunks of beef in the Grilled Steak Sandwich ($6.50) are topped with feta, tomato, grilled red onions and - of all things - hummus.

Pub from 11:30 a.m. to midnight Sunday through Thursday; until 1:30 a.m. Friday, Saturday. Dinners served until 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; until 11 p.m. Friday, Saturday.

Land 'n' Sea, 3411 Fremont Ave. N. (632-2855).

East Coast cookery has come to Fremont. Land 'n' Sea is the enterprise of Annie and Michael Burton, who came here from Maryland and began cooking traditional Down East specialties, like crab cakes, crab soup and other seafood dishes, but using only fresh Northwest ingredients.

The crab cake (you get exactly one, plus salad, for $6.25) was rather salty on a recent visit, but loaded with crab and no filler. The blue-cheese dressing appeared to be made with cottage cheese and was bland.

From 11:30 a.m. to 7 p.m. Tuesday; until 8 p.m. Wednesday and Thursday; until 10 p.m. Friday; 1 p.m. to 10 p.m. Saturday and 1 p.m. to 5 p.m. Sunday.

Spice of Thai, 607 Everett Mall Way S.E. (1-206-290-7900).

Hidden in a strip of shops, tucked in next to a Jack Roberts Appliance store south of Everett Mall, is this tiny gem of a Thai restaurant. Only 12 tables, the service is quick and the food hot and spicy.

Owner-chef Jeap Srichompol is no stranger to the food business. Her mother owned a restaurant in Taiwan before coming here 15 years ago. Srichompol worked at the Thai Kitchen in Bellevue for 10 years as assistant manager, then taught Thai cooking at Lake Washington Technical School.

Try her Barbecued Pork Ribs ($5.95), Swimming Rama ($5.50), a moist but typical Phad Thai ($5.25, with a bit more bite than usual) and the Green Curry ($5.50), rich and authentic with Thai eggplant. Great Angel Wings.

From 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Thursday; until 10 p.m. Friday; 5 to 10 p.m. Saturday; 5 to 9 p.m. Sunday.

Lampreia, 2400 First Ave. (443-3301). Owner Scott Carsberg (who once headed up Settebello on Capitol Hill) opened in Belltown in mid-'93. An extraordinarily artistic, creative chef, Carsberg crafted a spare menu in a dinner house of serious sophistication, despite its funky Belltown surroundings.

The interior design by Carsberg's wife, Hyun Joo Paek, is in monochromatic variations of subdued beige and gold.

The plating is equally artistic: Tuna Carpaccio with Fresh Herbs, or a Ravioli of Red Beet Puree with an aged Balsamico saucing, are typical starters (around $10). Main courses (four offered each night on a seasonally changing menu) might be Lamb with Pesto and Whipped Potatoes ($18.50) or Marinated Duck with Juniper and Thyme with a Risotto of Pumpkin (also $18.50). I recall a wonderful Loin of Lamb with a drizzle of basil-olive oil and a heady turnip gratin.

Dinners only: 5:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday.

Thai on Alki, 1325 Harbor Ave. S.W. and the Bangkok Shack, 1333 Harbor Ave. S.W., West Seattle (938-2992 and 937-9771).

At first glance it seems these two Thai houses - one a kind of beach shack, the other for gracious dining - are situated in close-quarters, brutal competition. But a second glance (at a business card) discloses that they are two aspects of a common ownership. Indeed, the waitstaff moves from one outlet to the other.

Pismorn Siriwongs heads up both. And at either you can get large portions of the usual Thai specialties, often at remarkably low prices - especially at lunch.

We had one huge portion of Yellow Curry with Chicken and cubed potatoes, and a salad for $3.99.

The Jasmine rice is wonderfully fragrant and expertly cooked and presented. The Pad Thai (their spelling) is only $4.95 with chicken or $5.95 with a half dozen good-size prawns.

Shack: Open daily from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Thai on Alki 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

Un Deux Trois, 1329 First Ave. (233-0123). French specialties in a cafe setting newly opened by Judy Schocken, the One-Two-Three features six seasonally rotating menus and complete take-out dinners that can be reheated at home.

The chef is Marty Grasa, former sous chef at Place Pigalle; his assistant is Sam Carpenter, until recently at The Painted Table.

We suggest the Calamari Provencale (available for takeout at $9.95 a pound), light and very tender. The Pot de Creme au Chocolat ($3 a pound or $2.12 a portion) will hold its own in any chocolate lover's fantasy.

7 a.m. to 11 a.m. Monday through Saturday; Lunch 11 a.m. to 3:30 p.m.; Dinner 5:30 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 5:30 p.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Takeout until 7 p.m. Monday through Saturday. Closed Sunday.

Une Bonne Bouffe, 2120 Sixth Ave. (448-1182). Another French cafe and takeout spot opened for lunch-only a year ago, but added dinner service a couple of months ago. Traditional French favorites in traditionally rich sauces. Owner-chef Theo Coido was born, raised and professionally trained in Paris. The menu shifts daily:

If it's Tuesday it must be Steak au Poivre ($6), for example. Some other specialties: Lapin Moutarde, Creme de Champignons, Gratin de Lentilles, Homard du Chef, etc.

Not nouvelle cuisine, but for many that's a plus.

Lunch 10:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday through Friday. Dinner: 4 p.m. to 8 p.m., also Monday through Friday. No alcohol or credit cards.

Shamshiri Restaurant, 6409 Roosevelt Way N.E. (525-3950).

Persian cuisine by owner-chef Bob Behmanesh has been added to the growing restaurant strip across from Roosevelt Square, joining Thai, East Indian and vegetarian restaurants nearby.

Open since late May, Shamshiri (the name means sword) is a highly authentic ethnic restaurant that caters largely to an Iranian-American clientele.

Start with an Eggplant Borahy ($3.50) or stuffed Dolmehs (five for $3) and move on to the wonderfully fragrant Koobideh ($6.95), ground and skewered beef and veal, or a delightful Chicken Barg ($9.95).

Massive portions of Shamshiri's "special rice" are the basis for almost all the dishes. The Persian Ice Cream ($2.50), flavored with vanilla, rosewater, saffron and pistaccio, is even more "special" than the rice.

11:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday; 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday; noon to 9:30 p.m. Sunday.

Cafe Santa Lucia, Pier 57, 1301 Alaskan Way. (343-7705).

Pizzas and pastas on the waterfront. But finding them isn't all that easy. Tucked inside the touristy commercial maze of Pier 57 (go to the merry-go-round and take a sharp left) is a highly competent Italian seafood house, started this spring by chef-partner Mario Vellotti, formerly of Chiao Italia in Edmonds.

The Insalata dello Chef ($5.25) is a heaping salad of exotic greens, with marinated mushrooms, red and yellow peppers, olives, prosciutto and slices of grilled chicken breast.

Gamberi alla Fra Diavola ($13.95), prawns sauteed with garlic, white wine, white wine and a peppery red sauce, was outstanding.

Ten southern Italian pastas are on the menu, including a luxurious Rigatoni alla Zio Peppe for $10.95.

Lunch 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. daily. Dinner 5 to 10:30 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; until 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

----------------------- NEW TO THE NEIGHBORHOOD -----------------------

Hey! What's that place down the block? It doesn't have the citywide impact of Frederick's tea room folding up its napkins forever, but small places move into small spaces, and the daily lives of a neighborhood are changed - usually for the better.

Here are some recent enrichments.

Macrina Cafe, 2408 First Ave. (448-4032).

Leslie Mackie, the former head baker at the Grand Central Bakery, lit her own set of ovens, Macrina in Belltown, a year ago and more recently opened a small cafe next door.

Devoted fans of her breads and pastries flocked in (and stood in patient lines). But now there's more. You can sit down and enjoy fabulous soups ($3.75), roasted chicken salad ($5.95) and many sandwiches on an array of truly remarkable breads. Don't overlook hot specialties such as lasagna ($6.50) and a number of vegetarian dishes.

Table service is available at lunchtime - but there always seems to be a line for that, too.

Lunch service: 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily; counter service: 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. Monday through Saturday. Closed Sunday.

Hong Kong Golden City Restaurant, 4228 Roosevelt Way N.E. (633-4350).

No, the Chinese, Malay and Vietnamese dishes at this pan-Asian outpost near the University of Washington haven't changed. The Mexican food has.

That is, Danny Campos is back slinging tortillas downstairs. And a big sign outside proclaimed it. Back in the 1960s, the site was the home of the most popular Mexican restaurant in town, although it was not the most authentic, or the best.

Earlier this year Danny Campos, who had sold the business to Maxine Lee in 1983, returned with his Mexican augmentation to her Asian menu. Several of us felt compelled to try it.

Best comment: "The tamale was pretty good."

The chicken enchilada ($3.95) was "forgettable." The souffle-like chile relleno ($4.25): "Not sure I liked it. At least it wasn't covered with runny yellow cheese."

The Chinese menu is OK - good, nongreasy spring rolls. But in the past two decades Seattle has elevated Mexican cooking beyond what Campos has demonstrated lately.

Best thing about my "Mexican" dinner was the fortune cookie that came with the bill.

From 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Monday through Friday (Lunch specials 11 a.m. to 3:30 p.m.); noon to 11 p.m. Saturday; noon to 10:30 p.m. Sunday.

Shea's Lounge, 94 Pike St., third floor of the Corner Market Building (467-9990).

What do you do when you've got a small dining space and don't enjoy seeing the overflow clientele stamping its collective feet in the hallway?

Open an annex. That's what Sandy Shea did, coinciding with the 10th anniversary of the adjoining Chez Shea, her enormously popular supper club above the Market. The Lounge is a narrow, spare but softly elegant room.

Lots of grand appetizers: The polenta crostini ($4.95) are superb; ditto the Neapolitan calamari with peppers ($7.95). The rest of the mostly Iberian menu suits the lounge status: limited to four choices a night. Try the loin of pork Sevilla ($9.95).

And if the kitchen isn't too stressed, you can usually order from Chez Shea's main menu. Great spot for a quiet rendezvous after work.

From 4:30 p.m. to midnight Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday; 4:30 p.m. to 1:30 a.m. Friday and Saturday. Closed Monday.

Cafe Campagne, 1600 Post Alley (728-2233).

The closest thing to a French Provencal bistro in Seattle resulted from the expansion of the nearby Campagne upstairs (86 Pine St.).

Owner Peter Lewis needed more room and wanted to add a less expensive, more informal alternative to chef Tamara Murphy's magnum opus.

The cafe is splendid at breakfast, with lattes served in gleaming white, huge French cups, and croissants and house-baked baguettes. Read a paper, sip slowly and pretend you're in Antibes, as the color of the Pike Place Market bustles by.

Terrific sandwiches (about $6 to $7) and constantly roasted chickens from the rotisserie near the entrance. Check out the sophisticated takeout deli next to the spinning poultry.

Breakfast 8 a.m. to 11 a.m., Monday through Saturday; Lunch/dinner 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Saturday; Sunday brunch, 8 a.m. through 3 p.m.

Mangoes Thai Cuisine, 1841 42nd Ave. E. (324-6467).

Owners Richard Janes and Christopher Toye, along with Thai-born manager Joe Song, opened Mangoes in Madison Park last spring.

Song, from Northeast Thailand - known for its subtler handing of spices and seasonings - does fine work with eggplant with basil ($6.25) and Mangoes Special Noodles ($7.25), wide rice noodles with soy, broccoli, black beans and chili paste. A nice alternative to Phad Thai.

But two of us thought the Tom Kah Gai ($3.95), Thai chicken and mushroom hot-sour soup, was merely OK and a trifle thin. Shoo Shee Pla, deep-fried fish with red curry and coconut milk ($8.50), was uneventful.

It's a good ethnic addition to the Park neighborhood, however, and quite busy. But it's not up to the some of the more dramatic Thai houses around, such as the Thai Thai in Burien-White Center, the Bai Tong at Sea-Tac or the Thai Restaurant on lower Queen Anne.

Lunch: 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Saturday. Dinner: 5 to 9:30 p.m. Monday through Thursday; until 10 p.m. Friday, Saturday; 4 to 9:30 p.m. Sunday.

Zeek's Pizza, 41 Dravus St. (285-6046).

For a crew of newcomers, slicing out a profitable niche in the horrendously overcrowded pizza market might seem impossible.

When you come up with items like the Frog Belly Green, the Organic Drift and the Thai One On ($2.50 a slice or $15 for a whole pie), you at least have a shot at the novelty trade.

But when the Frog Belly turns out to be a heady basil pesto and whole-milk mozzarella pie steaming with just-minced garlic, and the Organic Drift has fresh-chopped oregano and spinach with red onion and nuggets of feta - well, partners Doug McClure and Tom Vial are on their way to a thriving neighborhood attraction.

Halfway between the students at Seattle Pacific and the pub-crawl crowds of Fremont, Zeek's has been packing them in.

"We'll grow until it stops being fun," McClure laughed.

The laughter hasn't stopped yet.

From 11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. Monday through Friday; 3 to 10:30 p.m. Saturday, Sunday.

Luncheonette #1, 910 Second Ave. (622-6595).

The neighborhood here is Seattle's financial district, but this is not a typical dark-suit-and-red-tie dinner house.

In fact, there's no dinner at all. Luncheonette #1 is the latest inspiration of Peter Levy and Jeremy Hardy, creators of the Beeliner Diner, the 5 Spot and the Coastal Kitchen. Breakfast and lunch only (same menu) until the place closes at 5 p.m.

But the food is remarkable, presented with style and not a little wit. When was the last time you saw a menu heading such as: "A Pretty Limited List of Wine by the Glass or Bottle," or, "House White Wine That's Not in a Bag . . . $3."

The Hallucinogenic Chicken Chili ($4.50) is outstanding, if more mellow than aggressive; likewise the roasted chicken platter ($7.50).

Order anything with mashed potatoes.

Breakfasts are bountiful and, in the case of the sour-cream-laced blueberry cakes ($5.25), heavenly. Great addition to downtown.

Breakfast and lunch from 7 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Friday. Bar menu until 7 p.m. No dinner; closed weekends.

The Puppy Club, 419 Denny Way (443-1948).

The name and location have changed, but the spirit of David Gulbransen's Dog House lives on - and so does his rib-eye steak.

"We wanted to pay homage to the Dog House," Gulbransen said, "but take it to the next level of quality."

More open, better lit (actual sunshine), the Puppy Club replaces a Thai restaurant across Five Corners from KOMO. And the notorious $5.95 steak dinner still arrives with the stunning disclosure: "Tenderness Still Not Guaranteed."

Omelets OK, but surprisingly pricey.

New? How about the Veggie Burger with Fries ($4.25).

Really.

From 7 a.m. to 11 p.m. Monday through Thursday; until 3 a.m. Friday and Saturday; until 10 p.m. Sunday.

Pizzaliano, 2836 78th Ave. S.E., Mercer Island. (232-4288).

This island pizza joint - started by Jimmy Aviram - has been around for about three years. This spring it expanded, adding a deck, a wider menu and a new chef, Hal Sapadin, a New Yorker by way of Austin.

Everything is fresh. "We make 80 to 100 pounds of pizza dough a day," said Sapadin, "along with new fresh pasta sauces, like a pasta saute ($7.25), with Roma tomatoes, mushrooms, roasted peppers, olives and wine, tossed with feta."

You can still get the basic spaghetti and meatballs for $5.25. Appetizers are limited: garlic bread or bread sticks. Pizzas from $8.75 to $17.

11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

Snappy Dragon, 8917 Roosevelt Way N.E. (528-5575).

Judy Fu, who came to local notice a few years ago with voluptuous Chinese soups made with fresh-rolled and fresh-cut noodles at Panda's in the Wedgwood neighborhood, has finally established a restaurant of her own.

The Snappy Dragon has much of the same menu, but expanded. The green onion pancakes ($3.95) are a terrific starter; the Jiao-zi ($4.75) are boiled dumplings, a little like un-fried potstickers and quite simply irresistible with a tart soy dipping sauce.

The soups and soft-noodle chow meins ($6 to $8) are sheer fragrance. And do try the seafood clay pot stew ($8.95), loaded with prawns, scallops, shrimp balls, mushrooms and baby corn.

From 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Monday through Saturday; 4 to 9 p.m. Sunday.

Belltown Billiards, 90 Blanchard St. (448-6779).

True, there is more square footage devoted to pool tables than to dining tables, but there's a surprising emphasis on quality food in Steve Good's billiard parlor.

Perhaps not so surprising when you realize that Good is also the owner of the popular Queen City Grill upstairs. The B.B. is far from just a joint for people with custom cues in leather cases. Lively bar action, too.

The carpaccio ($8.95) is a satisfying appetizer, ultra-thin slices of raw beef tenderloin spiced up with tomatoes, capers, basil and hot chiles and served with a thin focaccia. The generous chopped salad ($4.50 as a starter; $7.50 as an entree) combines romaine, roasted chicken chunks, salami, cherry peppers and garbanzos in a roasted-pepper vinaigrette.

For basil lovers, the thin-crusted Northwest Pizza ($9.50) is topped with pesto, fresh tomatoes, prosciutto and goat cheese.

From 11:30 a.m. to 1 a.m. Monday through Friday; 4:30 p.m. to 1 a.m. Saturday and Sunday.

Mediterranean Kitchen, 103 Bellevue Way N.E., Bellevue (462-9422). Eastside fans of Kamal Aboul Hosn's Queen Anne location are reveling in his new Overlake restaurant.

Most of the original menu has been retained, such as Hosn's incredibly garlicky Farmer's Dish Chicken Wings ($9), "prepared my grandfather's way; over a million served." But in addition, there are some new items, such as Algerian chicken ($10), topped with a spicy peanut sauce.

You might try the seafood couscous ($9), plenty of vegetables and an excellent couscous, but with disappointingly small shrimp on one recent visit.

The cardamom-seasoned basmati rice is light and appealing, and comes with most dinners.

Lunch: 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday through Saturday. Dinner: 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

Sea Garden, 200 106th Ave. N.E., Bellevue (450-8833).

Another Seattle favorite has installed an Eastside spinoff. Long one of Chinatown's definitive seafood restaurants, The Sea Garden opened its Bellevue branch in mid-June.

The whole menu is there: from quick and filling soup noodles (the Barbecued Duck Sui Kau Noodles is $5.75) to a whole fresh crab with black bean sauce (market price; recently $19 for a 2 1/2-pounder), which is worth all of the money, time and mess it takes to consume it.

11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

------------ WITH A TWIST ------------

New wrinkles, new menus, new locations are all part of the dynamics of the ever-changing restaurant scene. Sometimes it's a fresh approach to an old formula; sometimes a complete commercial and gastronomic rebirth.

Cafe Mangia Bevi, DeLaurenti's mezzanine at the Pike Place Market, First Avenue at Pike Street (622-0141).

Panini, Italian-style sandwiches, seem to be all the rage on the Seattle cafe scene - even a downtown laundromat, Sit 'n' Spin, installed a panini bar.

But DeLaurenti's is following more than a new ethnic-food fad with its added upstairs cafe. After all, they've been dispensing the stuff that sandwich dreams are made of for generations.

They offer traditional grilled focaccia sandwiches ($4.50) such as the Roma (tomato, mozzarella and basil) and the Parma (prosciutto and fontina cheese). And, for sleepless Seattleites, tiramisu to go ($2.95).

From 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Saturday. Closed Sunday.

Kaspar's, 19 W. Harrison St. (298-0123).

The shift of Kaspar and Nancy Donier's dinner house from worn-out quarters atop the First and Cedar Building to the spacious expanse of what had been Le Tastevin on lower Queen Anne was a move of sheer genius.

It showcased one of the city's finest talents in a refurbished setting that is as workable as it is elegant. It's simply a beautiful place to dine.

And Donier's artistry in the kitchen with regional Northwest cuisine has never been more inspired or impressive.

Each dish arrives with a garnish of fresh herbs, often in flower. The combinations of flavors and ingredients are dazzling, yet elemental and satisfying.

Surprisingly affordable ($13 to $19).

From 5 to 9:30 p.m Tuesday through Thursday; until 10:30 Friday, Saturday. Lunch Fridays only, 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Closed Sunday and Monday.

Passport, 1509 Wall St., Everett. (206-259-5037).

This hot spot in downtown Everett began to shine a little brighter this year when it moved into new quarters in the restored Monte Cristo Hotel.

Built in the 1920s, the hotel, which sat empty and deteriorating for years, was brought back to life as a combination apartment house, arts center and restaurant.

Chefs Lil Miller and Nan Wilkinson, who also operate a superb bakery called Pave on Colby Avenue nearby, do peasant dishes with a wide-ranging international menu, along with huge loaves of crusty bread.

Specialties range from American Fried Chicken with mashed potatoes and greens ($11.50) to Passport's Paella ($14.25), which is almost like a luxurious seafood stew. Thai Mint Noodles ($11) with shrimp, chicken and veggies are an ongoing favorite.

Breads are increasingly available at retail.

Lunch from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Friday; dinner from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday and 5 p.m.-11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Closed Sundays.

Ajays at Night, 2619 First Ave. (441-1511) One of Seattle's top breakfast spots - used to packing them in in the daytime - is trying to grab a piece of the night-owl business near Belltown. After a short-lived attempt to get dressy, owner Alan Rugoff dropped the white linen tablecloths and brought out the New York Jewish deli food that got Seattle's attention in the first place. What it is is a casual, solid neighborhood joint to go get something to eat. Mornings, midday or after a show.

Chef Paul Morey does decent pastas like the Penne Putanesca ($8.95) with roasted peppers, Calamata olives, capers and basil. What keeps us coming back, though, are the sandwiches: a Reuben, with mounds of corned beef ($8.95), Hot Pastrami ($6.95) or a Muffuletta grilled with cheese, salami, ham and pesto ($8.95). We also find it extremely comforting to know we can have a plate of cheese blintzes with jam and sour cream ($6.95) or potato latkes ($4.95) or a warm bowl of matzo-ball soup ($2.75) on a chilly, rainy

evening.

Breakfast/lunch 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. every day. Dinner: 3 p.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday. Closed Sunday.

Fresh on the Go, 1100 N. Northlake Way (545-1905). Pasquale Santos, a personal trainer and former Mr. Washington, opened FtG in May, where Stone Way intersects the Burke-Gilman Trail. The target clientele is obviously the traveling well-fit who intend to stay that way.

What's surprising is that the low-fat, no-salt menu is bulging with taste. The Big Boy Burrito ($5.50) is a huge pillow of tortilla stuffed with shredded chicken, black beans, crunchy veggies and red salsa. Six kinds of hot sauces are on the counter for thermodynamic augmentation.

The Sliced Flank Steak patty, topped with marinara sauce ($6), is also pretty guilt-free.

Popular with the biking, hiking and Spandex set, along with muscled wonders from Gold's Gym. No tables, but lots of fitness magazines.

From 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Friday; 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. Saturday, Sunday.

Starbucks, 4582 University Village Court N.E. (522-5228).

A breakthrough store for the rapidly expanding, locally based coffee chain opened this summer. With 3,300 square feet of sit-down, counter and retail space, this is a departure from Starbucks' usual cramped urban counter shops.

The menu, too, expands beyond lattes ($1.45 for a single short) and scones ($1.35). Pastries, bagels, breads and even baguettes lend a little flavor of Paris at midmorning to the crowds dropping in from the QFC store across the way.

Also new are panini for lunch ($2.75 for the smoked turkey with glazed onions).

Main customers are still the bean buyers and lattes-to-go bunch, but this is a prototype merchandising effort by Starbucks, the first of what will undoubtedly be many.

From 6 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday; until 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday; from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday.

Hilltop Ale House, 2129 Queen Anne Ave. N. (285-3877).

Jeff Reich and Jeff Eagan expanded this year to atop Queen Anne after a successful start two years ago at the 74th Street Ale House, 7401 Greenwood Ave. N.

The basic idea was the creation of a tavern with a serious kitchen, imaginative sandwiches, salads, soup and seafood, instead of the usual pub grub.

Their Boneless Breast of Chicken Sandwich ($6.50) may be the best in the city, and we loved their roasted filberts.

The real novelty, however, was the Mike Hale's Ale Float ($4.50), a pint of Hale's dark porter, with a scoop of vanilla ice cream inside and a square of homemade hazelnut brownie alongside. Could be Seattle's most daring dessert.

From 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. daily.

Calcutta Restaurant, 15820 Main St. N.E., Duvall. (788-7954).

How a highly authentic East Indian restaurant managed to get established in the center of downtown Duvall is a matter of almost divine conjecture. But Gopal and Cindy Das started there early this year, and the exurban diet thereabouts hasn't been the same since Lamb Vindaloo came to town.

The Chicken Vindaloo ($6.95 a la carte; $9 as part of a complete dinner) was wonderfully bracing and, if ordered hot enough, assertive to a point of high drama.

Try the Lamb Do Peaza ($7.95 and $9.95) with its dual application of fried onions. And don't miss what may be the best rice pudding this side of the Indian subcontinent.

From noon to 9:30 p.m. Monday through Thursday; until 10 p.m. Friday. From 5 to 10 p.m. Saturday; 5 to 9:30 p.m. Sunday.

Kitto, 614 Broadway Ave. E. (325-8486).

"Hey, there's a real Japanese noodle house in town," a colleague who spends a lot of time in the Far East said enthusiastically. "They're all over Tokyo, but you rarely see them here."

Kitto opened up on Capitol Hill this year, across the street from the Deluxe, and it has been packed with dedicated slurpers ever since.

It is not just noodles (you can get a bountiful sukiyaki there), but large bowls of various Asian noodles, which are the main draw in a small, tasteful dining room (and counter) that mixes traditional Japanese motifs with utilitarian modernity.

Peter and Kevin Wong opened the place in late May. Bowls of yakisoba, udon, ramen and teriyaki (around $5 to $6) have been disappearing ever since. The tempura is very popular as well.

Informal, quick and very affordable. Be prepared to take leftovers home.

From 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; until 11 p.m. Friday, Saturday.

Cafe Septieme, 214 Broadway Ave. E. 322-9909.

A new spinoff from the popular Septieme in Belltown, the Broadway version has much of the same funky ambiance and is already a hit with much of the younger Capitol Hill crowd. (Pierced body parts are the norm.)

The name, of course, derives from the Seventh Arrondissement on the Paris Left Bank, and it fits.

The kitchen of the new Septieme is larger than its corporate cousin - the place used to be Andy's Cafe - and the resultant menu is larger and more diverse. They are able to turn out fairly elaborate and tasty breakfasts, and sandwiches like Grilled Eggplant ($5.50) or Sausage ($5.25) at lunch.

And there's a noteworthy Roast Chicken with garlic-mashed potatoes at dinner ($8.50).

7 a.m. to midnight Monday through Friday; 9 a.m. to midnight Saturday, Sunday.

Great Harvest Bread Co., 5408 Sand Point Way, N.E. (524-4873) and Lake Forest Park Towne Centre (365-4778).

Jeff and Maggie Weissman first stoked up the ovens of their original Great Harvest several years ago in Laurelhurst. But more recently, they expanded to a new addition in Lake Forest Park, where the latter-day Harvest serves as a beacon for snacking strollers, runners and bikers on the Burke-Gilman Trail a few hundred yards away.

The main attraction is the freshly baked loaves of whole-wheat bread - in a variety of seasonings - and the fact that at both places, free samples are given out liberally, along with slathers of butter and jam.

Even if you buy a loaf of bread, you'll be asked to sample another slice from two or three varieties just out of the oven.

The dill-onion and the sun-dried tomato foccacia are particularly choice.

Hours vary slightly at both bakeries, but in general they open at 6 a.m. and close at 6:30 p.m. weekend nights in Laurelhurst, and the LFP site stays open until 9 p.m. daily except Saturday and Sunday.

Cafe Sophie, 1921 First Ave. (441-6139).

Scott and Sue Craig have celebrated their first anniversary of this charming, atmospheric downtown spot, with many changes from the previous ownership.

Muscovy Duck Breast with fresh berry and port wine sauce ($18.95) was spectacular on a recent visit. As was the Beef Tenderloin encrusted with blue cheese and pecans, topped with a brandy-shallot glaze ($19.95).

They've added jazz on Friday nights.

The Craigs have cooked at several of Seattle's first-line kitchens, including Chez Shea, and have done nothing but improve on the original Cafe Sophie.

Lunch: 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday through Saturday. Dinner: 5:30 to 9:30 p.m. Monday through Thursday; until 10:30 p.m. Friday, Saturday. Late-night menu until 11 p.m. Monday through Thursday, until midnight Friday and Saturday.

The Poor Italian, 214 Virginia St. (441-4313).

Owner Greg Pesce not only has a new menu, but a recent remodel. Gone are the heavier butter-and-cream sauces, replaced by gentler-on-the-heart olive-oil bases, such as Cappellini Stefano ($7.95), angel-hair pasta tossed with garlic, basil, capers, tomatoes and artichoke hearts. Chicken Griglia ($9.50 for a half bird) sings under a marinade of a light white wine-lemon sauce, enhanced with garlic and rosemary. The native Italian crew (Pesce's mother-in-law and two sisters-in-law) still runs the kitchen.

Hours: from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday; until 11 p.m. Friday; 4 to 11 p.m. Saturday; 4:30 to 9:30 p.m. Sunday.

Gerard's Relais de Lyon, 17121 Bothell Way, N.E. (485-7600).

About every five years, Gerard Parrat does a complete redecoration of his dining rooms ("back to the bare walls"). This year he reworked his menu as well.

The walls are now a kind of marbleized mauve-burgundy, and the menu includes a lower-priced group of bistro favorites. The result is a series of four-course dinners of French classics for $20 in a setting that warmly resembles a Burgundian country inn.

The fare: cream of mushroom or French onion soup, salmon in raspberry vinaigrette, strip steak in green peppercorn sauce, duck with ginger-honey, etc.

On weekend nights, the bistro menu is available only before 6:15 p.m. seatings. Other nights, from 5 p.m. "until whenever."

Hors: dinner from 5 to 10 p.m. (or later) Tuesday through Sunday. No lunch. Closed Monday.

Mondeo, 1200 Western Ave. (622-9426).

Owner Clark Niemeyer opened yet another cafe this summer, banking on the increased business and foot traffic around the Harbor Steps.

Mondeo features light lunches and the pastries of Kristina Case Berkey. Try the chocolate-star cookies with mascarpone filling (75 cents) or the fruit tartlets ($1.25).

From 7:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday through Friday; 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Saturday. (Lunches 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.). Closed Sunday.

Standard Bakery on Queen Anne, 1835 Queen Anne Ave. N. (283-6359).

The inner-city neighborhood favorite moved this year to a new location a few blocks south - and more strategically placed cater-cornered from what could be the store with the most loyal food shoppers in the city: the Queen Anne Thriftway.

In addition to its well-known baked goods, the Standard has added a deli with daily soups ($1.50 to $3) and sandwiches (around $4).

The tasty Croissant Shrimp Sandwich ($4.25) derives from one at the old Bloch's, where co-manager Tamar Shdo worked earlier. She's also a veteran of Peerless Pies, where she learned her "to-die-for Pumpkin Pie."

From 6 a.m. to 7 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; until 9 p.m. Friday, Saturday. Deli opens at 11 a.m.

110 espresso & panini bar, 110 Union St. (343-8733).

A different kind of panini, on small rustic baguettes instead of grilled focaccia, yields what might be called Italian submarine sandwiches.

Owner Jane Hummer adds on some uncommon touches, however: Peach chutney puts the finishing touches on grilled chicken, for example. Others are more ethnically traditional, like the grilled eggplant and peppers with goat cheese ($5.95).

Hours: From 6 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday through Friday; 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturday. "First Thursdays" until 9 p.m. Closed Sunday.

--------- NEW CHEFS ---------

Often "what's new" for a restaurant is not its relocation to a promising new site, or a major remodeling of an existing one, but the arrival of key talent - usually a new chef, with new ideas, new concepts and a new sense of direction the restaurant will take.

A new chef may bring in a trusted sous-chef, leading to the departure of undercooks, etc. In other words, it's a genuine change.

Here are some spots with changes at the top.

The Painted Table, 92 Madison St., Alexis Hotel (624-3646).

Emily left. Jaws dropped. Teeth gnashed. Chests heaved.

Charming, popular and immensely dedicated, Emily Moore, who began her culinary career with a long training period at the city-run cooking school in Paris, made The Painted Table into one of the best restaurants Seattle had seen in ages. She took off for California after a dispute with the hotel ownership's policies. (Shortly before her departure, she vowed to return to Seattle when it became possible.)

But there's some cheering news. After "months of auditions," the Alexis settled on the talented Tim Kelly, most recently of New York. (He also cooked in Tokyo after an apprenticeship in San Francisco.)

Kelly's innovative style is not unlike Moore's, but his strong suit, along with unswerving regionalism, is plating and presentation. Artful, pretty dishes.

His layered goat cheese and vegetable salad ($7.95), for example, is a symphony of colors and textures. One of his most popular entrees is Atlantic salmon, farmed locally, served with white corn and herbed gnocci ($17.95).

He maintains a heavy emphasis on local and regional herbs and vegetables, and a decided seafood presence, such as angel-hair pasta with herbed prawns.

Breakfast: 7 to 10 a.m. Monday through Friday; 8 a.m. to noon Saturday, Sunday. Lunch: 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday through Friday. Dinner: 5:30 to 10 p.m. daily.

Hunt Club, Sorrento Hotel, 900 Madison St. (343-6156).

Despite a parade of highly talented - but, alas, departed - chefs in recent times, the dark-paneled, elegant Hunt Club has managed to sign a skilled replacement to Chris Keff.

Latest behind the stoves, and charged with maintaining a local tradition of fine food and superb service, is Eric Lenard.

Lenard was brought in from San Francisco, where he was chef at the Savoy. He has added his personal imprint to a new menu, with items such as a lavender-roasted rack of lamb ($26) and a delightfully hearty osso buco with saffron risotto ($22).

Breakfast: 7 to 10 a.m. Monday through Friday. Lunch: 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday through Friday. Dinner: 5:30 to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; until 11 p.m. Friday, Saturday. Brunch: 10 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.

Ponti Seafood Grill, 3014 Third Ave. N. (284-3000).

This fast-rising, relative newcomer to the list of Seattle's premier seafood houses still has the chef - Alvin Binuya - who attracted national media attention with his "fusion cooking," his combination of Asian techniques and ingredients with European (primarily Italian) classics.

What's new is his bakery and dessert chef, Victoria Binuya (his mother), who is a gentle genius with homemade ice creams, chocolate and, especially, fruit and berry pies. Her rustic peach pie is simply not to be missed.

Neither is her light cheesecake with cherry sauce.

"Even our chocolate souffle cake is better than ever," said co-owner Rich Malia.

Lunch: 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday through Saturday. Dinner: 5 to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday; until 11 p.m. Friday, Saturday. 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday. Brunch: 10 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Sunday.

Ray's Boathouse, 6049 Seaview Ave. N.W. (789-3770).

Ray's is probably Seattle's quintessential, most widely recognized restaurant, appearing frequently in national food magazines (due to the tireless efforts of local food publicist and KUOW broadcaster Mauny Kaseburg).

Ray's didn't lose its longtime chef, Wayne Ludvigsen; it promoted him to food and beverage director.

Taking over day-to-day operations in the kitchen is Charles Ramseyer (formerly with The Alexis), an imaginative, continental-trained chef who had been filling in as Ray's banquet manager.

Ramseyer brought a new accent to the view restaurant - more innovative touches with saucings and pasta, for example. But the primary emphasis is still on procuring the best possible ingredients and doing as little as possible to distort them.

The salmon is always reliable (in fact, exemplary) and the smoked black cod is still the best in the city.

Lunch: 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. daily. Dinner: 5 to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday; until 10:30 p.m. Friday; 4:30 to 10:30 p.m. Saturday; 4:30 to 10 p.m. Sunday.

Cafe Juanita, 9702 N.E. 120th Pl., Kirkland. (823-1505).

After years of unswerving one-man-rule by the ebullient owner-chef Peter Dow, Cafe Juanita hired on a new head chef, John Neumark (who was a sous-chef at the Sorrento's Hunt Club under Chris Keff, and earlier at Campagne).

Neumark, who trained in Germany for half a year, brought some new dishes to Dow's notoriously unchanging menu. Notably his mustard-marinated rabbit with wild mushrooms (about $16) and occasional nightly specials.

"But," said Dow, who is spending more time with management and his wine-distribution company, "we keep a pretty tight rein on him, as is my style."

Still, any change at all of Cafe Juanita's country Italian cooking is practically culinary heresy. All the familiar blackboard specials are still intact, and '93 and '94 were Dow's best years ever. If it ain't broke, etc.

Dinner: 6 p.m. to 9:15 p.m. daily.

Cafe Flora, 2901 E. Madison St. (325-9100).

This vegetarian stronghold has long since transcended the designation "neighborhood restaurant." Indeed, it has become a destination point, not only for vegetarians but also for thousands of meat-eaters looking for a change of digestive pace.

Interestingly, Cafe Flora made two significant changes this summer: the addition of a new chef, Mary Clarke (from San Francisco; do our arriving chefs ever come from anywhere else?) and the installation of beer and wine on the menu.

Why alcohol?

"It was the No. 1 request from our guests, by far," said a staffer. "By word of mouth and on our comment cards."

A festive night out, for many, still includes a glass of wine. A vegetarian friend, however, lamented the limited choices of wine by the glass.

Some changes on the food side of the card, but the Rustic Polenta ($6.95), topped with sauteed mushrooms, rosemary and Roma tomatoes, is still a glorious starter. The potato-stuffed Oaxaca Tacos ($10.50) are a surprising combination of flavors and textures, and the ever-present grilled nutburger ($6.95) actually tastes good.

From 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Friday. Dinner: 5 to 10 p.m. Saturday. Brunch: 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Saturday, Sunday.