Guide To Tacoma's Best Eateries And Watering Holes -- Overlooked Oasis -- Sonic Fans, Forced To Congregate In Tacoma, Will Find A City With Big-League Amenities

OK, admit it: You're from Seattle or Kirkland, or Bellevue, or Mountlake Terrace or Edmonds, and you normally drive right past Tacoma on your way to see Aunt Petunia in Portland.

You can be forgiven for not knowing the vast dining experiences and libations Tacoma has to offer. But if you're a Seattle SuperSonic fan and you plan to go to the Tacoma Dome for the games, you're going to be lost if you don't know your way around the area's local restaurants and watering holes.

So allow us, The Seattle Times South bureau staff, to assist you. We took on the burden of checking out several restaurants and lounges. As you will see, an evening in Tacoma can be as dazzling as a Shawn Kemp slam dunk.

We have divided our selections based on location, but none is farther from the Dome than an easy four-mile drive.

Remember, if you're making reservations, these Tacoma numbers might require a 1-206 long-distance call.

Here's what we found:

Near the Tacoma Dome

-- Stanley & Seafort's Steak, Chop & Fish House: Nestled high atop a hillside above the Dome, the restaurant offers a sweeping panoramic view of Commencement Bay and the city. Inside, you'll find a distinguished yet comfortable dining room adorned with dark wood and brass railing. The restaurant promises that its steaks, roasts, and chops are the most flavorful in the region. But seafood is really the specialty of the house. Entrees range from $15-$20. Stanley & Seafort's was recently rated one of the top American restaurants in the Pacific Northwest by the Zagat Survey. Dress casual. Reservations suggested but not required. 115 E. 34th St. 473-7300. Dinner served Monday through Thursday, 5 p.m.-9:45 p.m., Friday to 10:15 p.m.; Saturday 4:30 p.m.-10:15 p.m., and Sunday to 9:30 p.m.

-- Freighthouse Square: A freight warehouse turned international food court within walking distance of the Dome. Lacks ambiance, but is a quiet, unassuming place to pick up a quick order of Pad Thai (at The Paya Thai), unspectacular yet functional bulgogi (at Soon's Kitchen), or a close-to-authentic Philadelphia cheesesteak (at the Townhouse Cafe) for about $4.50 a pop. One of the stands, Murph's Bar and Grill, is changing its look in honor of the Sonics. It's even offering the Sonic Boom Burger, a 2-pound burger at least 6 inches high and a foot wide, with lettuce, tomato and fried onions. It feeds a family of four. If you can eat it all in one sitting - in front of the owner - you get it free. Rolaids sold separately. Located on the corner of East 25th and D streets. Open Monday through Saturday 10 a.m.-7 p.m., Sunday noon-5 p.m. A number of stands plan to extend their hours to accommodate postgame crowds.

-- Alfred's Cafe and Bubble Room: Raised stools, cigarette burns on the counter, hard-wood floors and sassy waitresses. Alfred's isn't made to look old - it is old. But quaint. And the food is cheap. For instance, on Thursday, you can get a ribeye steak, potatoes, toast and choice of soup or salad for $3.75. And where else can you find Jello on a menu? After dinner, you can amble across the hall to the Bubble Room, a tavern that looks like it hasn't changed much since Harry Truman was President. In fact, most people polled there still think he is. The cafe is open until 10 p.m., the Bubble room until 2 a.m. 402 Puyallup. 627-5491.

-- Johnny's Dock: For older, more civilized crowds who can appreciate thick cuts of rare prime rib, coconut tiger prawns and a pleasant view of Union Station - all in a hushed setting. Offers several elegant seafood entrees in the $15-$20 range. The restaurant houses an equally refined lounge with an extensive beer and wine list. Six blocks from the Dome: 1900 East D. Street. Open for dinner on weekdays 4 p.m.-9 p.m., and until 10 p.m. on Saturday. Sunday, 2:30 p.m.-9 p.m. 627-3186.

Downtown Tacoma area

-- Zeppo: Some people, particularly theater-goers, drop in just for the home-made desserts which include cheesecake, tiramisu and a macadamia-nut torte. Others come for the comfortable atmosphere and good Italian food with a Northwest twist. Affordable prices; the most expensive dish is $12.50. There's a full bar, good selection of Italian and domestic wines and a handful of rotating microbrews on tap. Dinner served until 9 p.m. on weekdays and 10 p.m. on Saturday. Smoking at the bar only. Convenient parking. Reservations recommended. 100 S. Ninth St. 627-1009.

-- The Swiss: Where the long-haired granolas and the cell-phone types meet for pool, dancing, the 30 beers on tap, and a great selection of hot and cold sandwiches. Bar open until 2 a.m. every day. Live music Saturday and Sunday (blues, reggae, jazz and rock). 1904 S. Jefferson Ave. 572-2821.

-- The Old Spaghetti Factory: Affordable family pasta hangout with a quasi-Victorian flair. Open until 10 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday, and 9 p.m. Sunday. 1735 Jefferson S. 383-2214.

-- Grounds For Coffee: Mingle with the post-theater and symphony crowd and college students hoping to pull all-nighters in this comfy cafe/eatery that used to be a hotel lobby. Sandwiches, bagels, soups, assorted desserts and a wide selection of gourmet coffees. Grab gooey cinnamon roll as you head over to plop down in an armchair or couch. And don't despair if it's late. Management will stay open past closing time if it's busy. Open until 7 p.m. Monday through Wednesday; until 9 p.m. on Thursday; until 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday and until 5 p.m. on Sunday. 764 Broadway. 627-7742.

-- Wintergarden: Good if you're looking to please finicky eaters. The menu offers everything: chicken wings, salads, burgers, steaks, fajitas and a seafood bar (Friday evenings only). Certain entrees are guaranteed to be delivered within 15 minutes of ordering, for those heading off to a Sonic game. Located within the Sheraton Tacoma Hotel, which has contracted to provide lodging for numerous NBA teams. Shuttle service will be offered to and from the Dome for a small fee. Open daily, until 11 p.m. 1320 Broadway Plaza. 591-4155, ext. 7371.

-- Elliott's: Will satisfy sports fans not wanting to wait until they get home. Catch game highlights on three TVs, including one big-screen. The bar's wall is mirror-paneled, the tables are tiny, and soft rock plays on the radio even if the TVs are on. Offers a "Slam Dunk Buffet," including foot-long hot dogs, chili, microbrews and nacho bar for $5.95. Live comedy Friday and Saturday night. Sunday and Monday, open until midnight. Tuesday through Saturday, open until 2 a.m. Sheraton Tacoma Hotel, 1320 Broadway Plaza. 591-4155, ext. 7373.

-- Altezzo: Elegant restaurant and bar featuring high ceilings and gorgeous views of the city from a 26th-floor vantage point at the Sheraton. The cuisine is mostly Northern Italian with "big flavors" - grilled prawns with a lemon risotto, roasted garlic and bean soup. As part of a hotel promotion, selected entrees will be delivered within 15 minutes. The adjacent bar, with candle-lit wooden tables and potted ficus trees, is perfect for a postgame cocktail. Flavored grappas and appetizers are available. Free valet parking for restaurant guests; hotel-to-Tacoma Dome shuttle also available. Reservations recommended. Open until 10 p.m. Monday-Thursday; until 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Bar open until midnight. Top floor of the Sheraton, 1320 Broadway Plaza. 591-4155.

Ruston Way Waterfront

-- Katie Downs: May have the best pizza in town, plus a great deck with heaters. Teriyaki burger (beef or chicken) is a treat. Seafood and salads also served. Northwestern, colorful flavor in the wide-open eating area. Unless there's a line, quick in-and-out time because you order at the counter. Tons of beers to choose from, plus wine. Must be 21. Open until midnight Friday and Saturday night. 3211 Ruston Way. 756-0771.

-- The Spar: This beer parlor, in Tacoma's Old Town area, is full of character, noisy conversation and, possibly, some of the best beer-batter fish and chips ($5.95) in the Northwest. Slightly greasy, but they melt in your mouth. With about 30 menu items, two dozen choices of beers and ales, two billiard tables and dartboards, this is a tavern in the best sense of the word. View of Commencement Bay. Beware: no credit cards accepted. Food available until midnight Friday and Saturday; drinks until 2 a.m. 2121 N. 30th St. 627-8215.

-- Grazie Ristorante: Northern Italian cuisine for the past seven years in a graceful, turn-of-the-century building which was once a bordello. The spirit of commerce continues with souvenir Grazie coffee mugs and sweatshirts. Try the calzone or pizzas in downstairs deli, open until 10 p.m. weeknights, and until midnight Friday and Saturday. Dinners are served on the second floor, which also has an espresso bar, reached by a grand staircase. 2301 North 30th. 627-0231.

-- Ram American Grill and Fish House: Sports-bar heaven, with a 12-foot-square television over the bar and 15 smaller TVs scattered throughout. Burgers reign. Kids welcomed with free balloons, ice cream and apple sauce. Management planning Tacoma Dome bus for patrons for nominal fee. Open 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Friday and Saturday; until 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday. 3001 Ruston Way. 756-7886.

-- Harbor Lights: Established, older clientele enjoying large, reasonably priced portions of deep-fried seafood and six kinds of oyster stew for 35 years. Dimly lit dining room with red leather banquettes. Cheap highballs in small adjoining bar near signed photo of Bob Denver. Open until 11 p.m. weeknights; 1 a.m. Friday and Saturday. 2761 Ruston Way. 752-8600.

-- C.I. Shenanigans: Airy, modern chain specializing in seafood but always interested in the next hot food trend; planning now for Cajun cuisine. Crowd in 30s and 40s. A sign of the times: management recently turned its upstairs country music nightspot into banquet rooms. 3017 Ruston Way. 752-8811.

Fife area

-- Milton Tavern: Beer, burgers, pizza in the best little yuppie bar around. It's smoke free and patrons are often thirtysomething-plus. Thirty-two beers on tap, with an emphasis on Northwest brews. Open until midnight Monday-Thursday; 1 a.m. Friday-Saturday; 11 p.m. Sunday. Major sporting events on TV. 7320 Pacific Hwy. E., Fife. 922-3340.

-- La Casa Real: If you want to overdose on the Sonics, this is the place. Five TVs will televise games, and the manager is a one-man Sonic cheerleader. Lots of Sonic-related specials planned. Average age of clientele 25-28, smoke-free dining. Happy hour 4-8 p.m. daily. Lounge open until 10 p.m. Sunday, 1 a.m. Monday, midnight Tuesday-Thursday. D.J. music for dancing Monday, Wednesday and Friday. 3410 Pacific Hwy. E. 922-8877.

-- Pick Quick Drive In: A 1949 landmark along Old Highway 99, the Pick Quick was one of the first drive-ins in the Northwest. The small, white building with the neon sign hasn't changed much since then. Neither has the menu, which includes great cheeseburgers and a wide variety of milkshakes, including marshmallow, peach and mocha. At busy times, loyal customers sometimes wait 30 minutes - without complaining. Open 10 a.m.-8 p.m. Monday-Saturday; 11 a.m.-6 p.m. Sunday. Stays open only through Nov. 22, and reopens in February. 4306 Pacific Hwy. E. 922-5599

-- Poodle Dog Restaurant: An old-fashioned diner that opened in 1933, it offers homemade pies, roast pork, liver and onions and breakfast anytime. An older coffee-and-Camels (unfiltered) crowd around the counter and in the Pup Room. Home of basic cocktails - no umbrella drinks. Price range: $5.75-$11.50 dinner; $2.75-$8.65 breakfast. Open 6 a.m.-midnight daily. 1522 54th Ave. E., Fife (Fife Square). 922-6161.

Elsewhere in town

-- Engine House No. 9: The name gives it away: an old fire station converted into an eatery and bar with real character. Worth the 10-minute drive from the Dome. Black beans, green chili peppers and two kinds of cheese make the nachos some of the best around. Food is consistent - from pizza to sandwiches to "Famous Soft Taco." You can't go wrong. Also a winner with its 29 beers on tap and its non-smoking environment. Must be 21. Open until 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday night, with the bar open until 1:30 a.m. Before-the-game Happy Hour on Friday, 4-6 p.m. No reservations. 611 North Pine St. 272-3435.

At the Dome

No time to eat until you get there? Here's what you can expect from the Tacoma Dome concessions, provided by Ogden Services:

Baked potatoes ($2.25), hot dogs ($2, $3.25), pizza ($4), teriyaki chicken sandwich ($4), soup ($1.75), nachos ($3.50, $4.25), hamburger ($3.25), fish and chips ($4.25), fries ($2), plus an assortment of candy, pretzels, yogurt, ice cream, etc. Soda prices range from $1.50 (14 ounces) to $3.25 (32 ounces). Snapple ($2.50) will set you back more than Evian ($2.25). Beer varies from $3 (14 ounces) to $4.75 (21 ounces).

Contributing to this report, from The Seattle Times South bureau staff, were Flor Angela Davila, Anne Koch, Paul J. Lim, Stephen Clutter, Nancy Montgomery, Jenny Hermanson, Nancy Bartley and Steve Pierce.