A New Mouse Brings Healthy Mexican Fare

Restaurant review

Macheezmo Mouse, Overlake Fashion Plaza, 2028 148th N.E., Bellevue. 746-5824. Monday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Sunday, noon to 9 p.m. Checks, bank cards accepted. Beer, takeout. No smoking. Wheelchair accessible. -----------------------------------------------------------------

I know you were scared and confused about those nasty studies trumpeting the poor nutritional values of your favorite ethnic cuisines. Last month's news that Mexican food was full of fat - the same thing we were told about Chinese food last year - only fueled your anxiety.

Fear not, for deliverance is at hand - Macheezmo Mouse is here to save the day. And Mexican fast food has never been so healthy.

The first Macheezmo Mouse opened in Portland in 1981 and the chain has grown to 17 restaurants (eight in Washington, with more to come). The scrupulously clean, bright Overlake branch is the newest. The chain remains company-owned to ensure quality standards.

The food is baked, broiled, grilled or steamed - never fried. The results are lean, low-fat, low-salt entrees that are low in cholesterol. You won't find lard, MSG, animal fats or tropical oils, preservatives, colorings or additives. You will find great-tasting meals that meet the nutritional guidelines of the American Heart Association and the American Diabetes Association.

Various brochures provide nutritional analyses of the food, an ingredients list for each recipe and weight-management tips. Meals can be customized to fit your dietary needs and tastes, and the staff is trained to accommodate requests.

The small menu emphasizes skinless chicken, high-fiber brown rice, black beans and low-fat jack cheese Prices are affordable: entrees range from $3 to $5.25. Refills are free on soft drinks (including Thomas Kemper root beer on tap), lemonade, Cactus Cooler and iced tea.

Flavorful enchiladas and burritos - chicken, beef chili, combos or veggie - are huge and mushy, and come in wheat or flour tortillas stuffed with a tasty brown rice. Both also feature black beans, jack cheese, fresh salsa and the restaurant's piquant, barbecue-inspired Boss Sauce.

Four different salads incorporate the same basic ingredients. Pre-made burritos and salads are less expensive than custom-made orders.

A large, toasted quesadilla, filled with melted jack cheese and topped with cheese, cilantro and the delicious house salsa, is only $2. Skewers of grilled, marinated chicken breast, which are tender but somewhat dry, can be added to any entree for $1.50 more. Deluxe versions come with steamed broccoli, fresh greens, marinated veggies, guacamole, salsa, Mexican cheese and a tortilla for $5.25.

Orders come from the kitchen mildly spiced, but that can be fixed with toppings from the salsa bar, including a chunky jalepeno green sauce, sliced jalapeno chips and mustard dressing. For an additional $1.50, any entree can become a dinner with sides of rice, beans and a choice of broccoli, salad or chips.