Try Elo's Philly Steak For Authentic Treat

------------------------------------------------------------------ Restaurant review

Elo's Philly Grill Steak Sandwiches, 6751 S. 216th, Kent; 872-0782. Monday through Friday: 7 a.m. to 6 p.m.; Saturday: 9:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Personal checks accepted. Wheelchair accessible. Beer, big-screen TV. ------------------------------------------------------------------

Few things in life are as satisfying as biting into a good, hot Philly cheese-steak sandwich. Just thinking about them makes the mouth water: thin, tender strips of rib-eye steak; grilled onions, peppers and mushrooms, covered with melted provolone or Swiss cheese; and all on a toasted Italian roll.

Few things are harder to find out here on the West Coast, so far removed from the true center of culinary civilization. But local purists have discovered that the real thing can be had at Elo's Philly Grill in Kent.

The original Elo apparently smuggled the closely guarded recipe and its secret ingredients out of Philadelphia to his Puget Sound home nine years ago. Business was so good he eventually opened three more of his namesake establishments in Lynnwood (since closed), SeaTac and Seattle.

Former Philadelphia residents Young Chang and her husband Mike, owners of the former Alki Beach Restaurant and Pepper Dock's Restaurant, learned how to make the sandwiches from Elo and took over the Kent restaurant after his death.

The office-park location is clean, neat, surprisingly spacious and air-conditioned cool. Counters and tables are augmented by four outdoor tables with colorful umbrellas. Light instrumental jazz plays unobtrusively over speakers.

Elo's offers four varieties of cheese steaks (plain; with cheese; with peppers; with mushrooms) in small or large sizes ranging from $2.90-$3.90. Only gargantuan appetites need ever order a large - if you're ordering any of the other deli food Elo's also serves, the small size is plenty big enough for most.

The steak strips are properly tender, the onions perfectly grilled, and the Italian rolls are from a special recipe - the Changs have Gai's make half of the bread needed, and bake the other half themselves. The sandwich could benefit from a little more cheese, but - that lone quibble aside - the result is a wonderful sandwich that will bring tears to the eyes of transplanted Philadelphians.

Elo's also features standard deli fare such as Italian subs, along with pastrami, salami-and-cheese, roast beef, turkey breast, hot ham-and-cheese, tuna salad, and egg-salad sandwiches ($2.95-$4.50). You also get good barbecue, French dip and teriyaki sandwiches, as well as a chicken version of the Philly cheese steak. Daily soup specials recently included chili and a peppery goulash with chopped steak, noodles and tomatoes ($1.19 for a cup).

Breakfast is served until 10:30 a.m., with the usual grill favorites including eggs, hash, and omelets. The menu also has Danish and other pastries, muffins, salads and toast.