Emory's Specialties: From Sushi To Steak

Restaurant review

Emory's Lake House Restaurant & Bar, 11830 19th Ave. S.E., Everett; 337-7772. Lunch: Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.; Dinners: Monday through Thursday, 5 to 9:30 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5 to 10:30 p.m.; Sunday 4 to 9 p.m. Sunday brunch 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Lounge and deck menu served Monday through Saturday, 3 p.m. to midnight; Sunday, 3 to 10 p.m. Major credit cards and checks accepted. -----------------------------------------------------------------

With more than 20 years of experience in the restaurant business, Emory Cole knows what he is doing.

Emory's Lake House Restaurant & Bar on Silver Lake has been open only about one month, but reservations are already recommended - at all times.

Cole is no novice to the restaurant business. For the last 16 years he owned the Seahorse Restaurant in Mukilteo, but in February he was made "an offer he couldn't refuse" and he sold that restaurant. Because of what he know's about the area's demographics, the former Mukilteo mayor began looking for a new location along the Bothell-Everett Highway corridor.

"When I saw the lakefront property there was no question in my mind. In Mukilteo I was 100 feet from true happiness. For a long time, I wanted to have a waterfront location."

Now he has Emory's Lake House Restaurant & Bar on Silver Lake.

Joining him in the new venture is former Seahorse chef, James Reid. Cole and Reid had also worked together for Consolidated Restaurants (which includes Seattle's Metropolitan Grill, Hiram's At-The-Locks and Elliott's at Pier 56). Before that, Reid had learned his trade at El Gaucho and 13 Coins.

One of the main attractions at Emory's is the sushi bar, presided over by David Putaportiwon, formerly of Triples Restaurant (now Kayak Lakefront Grill) on Lake Union in Seattle.

Putaportiwon is definitely a master at sushi. The California roll with chunks of fresh crab, creamy avocado and cucumber ($4.50) was exceptional. There are daily sushi specials, but in addition to the California roll, constant on the menu for $4.25 are the Lake House roll with nova smoked salmon, cream cheese and chives and a delicious tuna roll.

The dinner menu offers a variety of salads, steaks, pasta, fish, seafood, lamb, chicken and ribs. Prices range from $8.95 for a Caesar salad to $18.75 for fresh tuna with cilantro sauce to $22.95 for a New York steak.

With the entrees comes the choice of soup, a cup of clam chowder, or a fresh romaine lettuce salad and French bread.

The zesty grilled Jamaican swordfish ($17.95) is extraordinary. The Jamaican seasoning is of a pesto type, but with a spicy blend of peppers, cumin, allspice and lime juice. The fish is tender and flaky.

The swordfish is served on a bed of green peppers, red peppers and onions. Served along with it is a mixture of sauteed baby red potatoes, mushrooms, ham, garlic and green peppers in a creamy sauce. In addition it is also accompanied by sauteed sugar peas, baby carrots and red and white onions.

The potato dishes change daily at Emory's. On another day they could be mashed with garlic and cheese.

The Lake House summer salad ($9.95) is juicy teriyaki chicken served on a bed of fresh romaine lettuce along with bean sprouts, grapes, strawberries, honeydew melon, cantaloupe, pineapple and kiwi. It is topped with slivered almonds, sesame seeds and a pleasing dollop of a light honey-mustard dressing.

The list of "finales" includes a New York lemon cheesecake ($3.75), chocolate decadence ($3.50) and Lappert's Hawaiian ice cream ($2.95). The macadamia nut torte ($3.50) was very rich, but the small portion left me wanting more. A thick mixture of caramel sauce and macadamia nuts fills a buttery crust, and it is topped with drizzles of white chocolate.

On Sundays, the brunch menu includes a continental buffet of fresh fruit (including strawberries in a caramel-rum sauce), pastries, granola and yogurt. The breakfast menu ranges from $8.95 to $10.95 and includes the buffet, or a la carte the buffet is $6.95. Lunch items are also available during the buffet hours, and they range in price from $6.59 to $11.95.

Scheduled to open any day now is a take-out window for short orders of clam chowder and espresso.

"We are still shaking down our operation," says Cole. "We will be making changes in the next month. We will see the response of what sells and what doesn't sell."