Beverages -- A Brief History Of Bock Beer

Forget everything you thought you knew about bock beer. It is not, repeat not, made from the residue found in the barrel during spring cleaning. Who would want to drink the dregs anyway?

No, the real story is much more colorful. It involves a marriage between two aristocratic Bavarians and Martin Luther himself swigging down a glass or two before making his famous reformation speech in the 16th century.

First, the origin of bock: The dark, robust brew apparently had its beginnings during the Middle Ages in the German town of Einbeck where the monks made a special robust beer to see them through the Lenten season. As they were forbidden to eat, they figured a rich, extra malty beverage would sustain them nicely. It did, but everyone else wanted some too and it became a popular local tradition in spring. It wasn't long before this "beck" beer was pronounced "bock" in the Bavarian dialect. Bock also means male goat in German and that symbol is often found on labels.

It didn't go mainstream, however, until a young and well-placed couple from southern Germany in the 17th century insisted it be served at their wedding. One taste and the guests thought they were on to something. It became the rage, and the world of bock beer was spread throughout Germany.

The news apparently reached Martin Luther, who also served it at his wedding. So, when the day came for him to confront the emperor at the Diet of Worms, he fortified himself with bock beer. So impressed was the brewery over this early form of product endorsement, Luther's picture went on the label. The earliest exports to the U.S. of bock beer still had the theologian's picture on the label and it became known as the "beer of Martin Luther."

Nearly every brewing region makes bock beer today, generally releasing it in the spring. The traditions are honored in that extra malts are used and brewing time is often longer than normal. It is usually made from the first wort, the original runoff from the mash.

Bock is also a "bottom-fermented" beer, which refers to the refrigeration process in which the yeast settles to the bottom of the vat or tank. The resulting bock is a dark, dense beer (although lighter colored ones are made) that is malty without being too sweet and has a long, rich aftertaste.

Seattle-area stores now have an ample supply both from our own micro-breweries and other brewing regions including, of course, Germany.

Here are a half dozen from our local market. There is a wide range in prices per bottle depending upon sizing. A six-pack of 12-ounce bottles will average about $7 to $8. Some bottles, such as the Spaten from Germany, are 17 ounces and sell for about $1.90. Others are in the new 22-ounce size, and sell for about $2.50.

Samuel Adams Double Bock: A real hit with my tasting group. What a surprise to find it is, although from a Boston firm, actually brewed in Portland, Ore. Loyalties aside, it was smooth but deliciously rich and full bodied.

Sierra Nevada Pale Bock: California's entry and made in a lighter, hoppy style that is refreshing but soft.

Spaten Bock: From Munich, which also claims to have originated bock, this is gold in color but, we thought, rather too light in character. Spaten also makes a double bock called Optimator which is also light in color but richer in style.

Thomas Kemper Rolling Bay Bock: Our Poulsbo brewery annually produces this copper-colored, creamy bock made from twice the amount of malts and three types of Yakima hops. Very good flavors and long finish.

Pyramid Wheaten Bock: Another Northwest entry, this one has wheat included in the malted barley. Good robust flavors.

Augburger Dopplebock: Brewed in St. Paul by Stroh (despite the German-sounding name), this one is quite dark in color and has some clean, crisp flavors but not as much texture as the Samuel Adams.