Remove And Burn Leaves Of Fungus-Infected Azaleas

Q: Each spring as my azaleas begin to put on new growth, many of the leaves swell up and get kind of red and deformed. Not all of the plants are affected. What can I do about it?

A: The symptoms you describe are caused by a fungus organism that apparently overwinters as spores on the bark and bud scales. As the new leaves emerge, they are infected. The leaves, or sometimes only parts of them, become thickened and fleshy, and eventually are covered with white spores.

These galled leaves are very succulent and white at first, but later the tissue may become reddish, and eventually brown and hard. Control involves removing the galls and getting rid of them by burning. Don't compost the diseased tissue or leave it lying about.

WSU plant pathologists also recommend applying a copper fungicide once before the buds break in spring, and a second spray about two weeks later. Use a spreader-sticker in the spray. Only certain azalea cultivars are susceptible, and one way to deal with the problem is to replace them with others that don't get the disease. Occasionally rhododendrons will also come down with the problem, and the same controls are recommended.

Q: Every spring my camellia has lots of flowers, but they aren't very big. The flowers also don't last very long, and in a few days they mostly all turn brown and die. Is there anything I can do?

A: Many Camellia japonica cultivars produce far too many buds, which if allowed to flower, are generally quite small. Some camellias may have more than five buds in a cluster.

If you are willing to remove many of the buds before they open into flowers, you'll probably get bigger blooms when they do open. Leave only one or two buds at the tip of each branch and allow only one bud about every 4 inches to remain farther back on the branches. Twist each bud off; don't yank them off.

The quickly browned flowers may be the result of a fungus disease called camellia petal, or flower blight. The disease may be controlled, but it will likely require several different processes.

First, remove and destroy any diseased flowers on the plant as well as those that have fallen to the ground. Rake up and destroy all old leaves and other plant parts. Don't try composting any of this stuff; get it out of the garden.

Remove the top 3 to 4 inches of mulch beneath the plant, or soil if no mulch is present, to eliminate the tiny mushrooms that produce the spores that infect the flowers. Replace with new mulch or soil.

Fungicides may also be needed. Apply Captan as a spray to the soil around the plant when flowering begins and at 7- to 10-day intervals during the bloom period. Bayleton or benomyl may also be sprayed on the blossoms as they open to kill the disease spores as they land on the petals.

Q: I will be getting married in August and would like to plant flowers that would be in bloom then and could be arranged in bouquets. Can you help?

A: The following should all be in flower in August: Achillea (yarrow), Agapanthus, Alstroemeria, Analphalis, Anemone, Antirrhinum (snapdragon), Aster, Calendula, Callistephus, Catananche (Cupid's dart), Centaurea, Chrysanthemum, Clarkia, Coreopsis, Cosmos, Dahlia, Delphinium, Eryngium, Gaillardia, Gladiolus, Helianthus, Lathyrus (sweet pea), Lilium, Phlox, Pyrethrum, Rudbeckia, Solidago (goldenrod) and Zinnia. Congratulations!

Gardening runs Friday in the Scene section and Sunday in Home/Real Estate of The Seattle Times. It is prepared by George Pinyuh and Holly Kennell, Washington State University/King County Cooperative Extension agents, Mary Robson, Master Gardener program assistant, and volunteer Master Gardeners. Send questions to: Gardening, The Seattle Times, PO Box 70, Seattle, WA 98111. Questions of general interest will be answered as space allows.