Trimbach `Wines Of Alsace' Go Well With French Cuisine

That Trimbach family is everywhere! Hubert Trimbach, a senior member of the wine-making family in Alsace, is a frequent visitor to Seattle. In fact, recently I stopped by my local grocery to find him browsing through the wine displays (presumably to make sure the Trimbach wines were included).

Then last week, while in Georgia where I was presenting a seminar, I learned that one of the events the following day was a luncheon/wine seminar on Trimbach wines. Making the presentation was Jean Trimbach, a nephew of Hubert.

I like Trimbach wines very much and have long admired them for their remarkable style and character. Second, the meal sounded promising because it was not only classic French but was to reveal how the Alsatian wines match with various dishes. It turned out to be one of the most valuable experiences I have enjoyed with Alsatian wines. (Incidentially, Jean likes to call them "wines of Alsace" as Alsatian refers to the dog.)

Well, these wines were no "dogs." To the contrary, they proved versatile with a menu that was not only exotic but spanned the gamut of flavors and textures. Here are the wines along with the matching cuisine (the prices are local):

Trimbach 1991 Riesling, $12: This bone-dry but deliciously fruity and balanced wine was matched with a fascinating dish of puff pastry filled with escargot (that's right, folks, snails) and frog's legs. The wild and vivid flavors did not overwhelm the delightful, classic Alsatian wine.

Trimbach 1989 Frederic Emile Riesling, $28.50: This much richer, rounded riesling (named for the head of the family in the last century) worked like a charm with a salad made of mesclun lettuce, walnut oil and warm goat cheese. The wine is expensive, yes, but was from what Jean described as one of the top vintages of Alsace ("best since 1979"). The interesting fact about such rieslings is that they can age for many years before reaching their peak.

Trimbach 1991 Reserve Pinot Gris, $16: This wonderfully ripe and flavorful wine was paired with the main course, a veal filet with essence of truffle and a sauce of Alsatian pinot noir. The Trimbach, made entirely without oak, is complex, creamy in texture and very clean and crisp on the finish.

Trimbach 1988 "Ribeaupierre" Gewurztraminer, $29: A wine made only in the best years, it is a gewurztraminer that should serve as a yardstick for all others. The wine combines great power with the natural spiciness of the grape. It married well with a fabulous dessert: little chocolate baskets filled with ginger mousse.

Tip of the week

February is your chance to pick up one of our state's best chardonnays for only about $8. I'm talking about the 1992 Waterbrook Chardonnay. It earned a gold medal at the Tri-Cities Wine Festival.

Now on Infoline, Tom Stockley gives weekly tips and advice for choosing wines. To hear the recorded messages, call 464-2000 on a touch-tone phone and punch in category WINE (9463). Calls to Infoline, a telephone information service of The Seattle Times, are free in the greater Seattle area.