When To Trim Raspberries? Late January Or February

Q: How and when do I trim raspberries? Also, when do I spray caneberries?

A: There are two types of red raspberries grown in home gardens in Western Washington, summer-bearing and the so-called everbearing kind. The summer-, or June-bearing, types such as "Sumner," "Meeker," "Willamette," "Chilliwack," etc. should have their spent fruiting canes or stems removed soon after harvest is complete. They should be cut off right at the soil line.

Sometime in late January or February the new, or primocanes, which grew the previous summer should be topped at about 5 feet. Some growers don't bother to prune these canes back; they simply bend them over and tie them to the uppermost trellis wire. Both of these procedures ensure plenty of lateral branching for easy picking.

Everbearing cultivars, such as "Heritage," "Autumn Bliss," "Summit" and "Fall Gold," are treated somewhat differently since the primocanes flower and fruit not only during the fall of the first season, but then again the following June. The top half of the canes are usually pruned away in late fall after they have finished producing fruit. The lower half of each cane is allowed to remain to fruit the following June.

Some growers advocate cutting the canes off at ground level in late fall after production ceases. This of course eliminates the following June's crop. The rationale for this centers on the fact that the fall fruit is so superior to the summer crop that it isn't

worth allowing the plants to direct so much energy into inferior June fruit.

The subject of spraying is somewhat complex, since there are a number of different pathogens and insects that may attack this group of plants at different times.

Washington State University Extension plant pathologists recommend that a dormant or delayed dormant spray of lime-sulfur be applied to all caneberries, including raspberries and the erect and trailing blackberries (e.g., "Logan," "Boysen," "Marion," etc.). This important application can help to control various diseases and the dryberry mite. The best timing for this spray is just before or just after the buds begin to swell in spring.

An entire insect and disease control program is outlined in WSU Extension publication EB 1015. Send $1 and a self-addressed, stamped, long envelope to WSU Extension, 612 Smith Tower, Seattle 98104.

Q: I have a pear tree that has been covered with black fungus spots on the leaves and fruit for the last several years. I used to donate the fruit to a local food bank, but recently this hasn't been possible. Should I chop the tree down and start over again, or can I do something to it so it starts producing pears again?

A: Your tree has been infected with the fungus disease called pear scab. It can be controlled using a combination of sanitation and fungicide applications. If you haven't already done so, clean up all fallen leaves and fruit and dispose of them. Don't compost them or allow them to remain in your yard.

In spring during the bloom cycle, you should spray the tree three times, using either lime sulfur, wettable sulfur, benomyl or captan, according to label directions. The first spray should be applied at the pink stage, the second at petal fall, and the last one two weeks later. These three sprays should give 85 percent control of the disease, but to get 100 percent control, more fungicide applications are probably necessary.

For more information, send $1 and a stamped, self-addressed, long envelope to WSU Extension, 612 Smith Tower, Seattle 98104. Ask for EB 846, "Spray Guide for Apples and Pears."

Gardening runs Friday in Scene and Sunday in Home/Real Estate. It is prepared by George Pinyuh and Holly Kennell, Washington State University/King County Cooperative Extension agents, Mary Robson, Master Gardener program assistant, and volunteer Master Gardeners.