Seattle -- A Take On The Town

Visiting town? Or escorting one of the thousands this week who are? Here's some relief from talking about the APEC summit for the next six days, or playing contract bridge longer than that, or even taking in the Apple Cup this Saturday, for that matter. Who wants to stay in? Not us. Certainly not you. Take advantage of the Emerald City, one of America's best! Leave your hotel rooms, get off those tour buses, throw those meeting notes in the air. Take to the streets. And take these lists with you. And enjoy yourselves.

-- The lingo of Latteland.

A primer to make you more comfortable with the language of coffee:

Caffe Mocha: chocolate syrup or hot chocolate with a shot of espresso and steamed milk.

Cappuccino: equal parts espresso, steamed milk and foamed milk.

Espresso macchiato: a shot of espresso with a splotch of steamed milk on top.

Caffe latte or latte: a shot of espresso with steamed milk, topped with foamed milk.

Espresso con panna: espresso topped with a deep drift of whipped cream.

Grande: a 16-ounce latte.

Tall skinny or tall non: a tall latte made with 1 percent or nonfat milk.

Double tall skinny: as above, but with a double shot of espresso.

No fun: a latte made with decaffeinated espresso.

Double no fun or harmless: a latte made with decaf espresso and nonfat milk.

Thunder thighs: a double tall mocha made with whole milk and topped with extra whipped cream.

Sources: Starbucks and "Seattle Emergency Espresso" by Heather Doran Barbieri

-- Ethnic cuisine

Il Terrazzo Carmine, 411 First Ave. S., 467-7797. Southern Italian fare.

Labuznik, 1924 First Ave., 441-8899. Czech and central European specialties.

R&L Home of Good Barbecue, 1816 E. Yesler Way, 322-0271. The best African-American, Southern-style barbecue cooking in Seattle.

The Wild Ginger, 1400 Western Ave., 623-4450. Melange of Asian and Southeast Asian dishes.

Dahlia Lounge, 1904 Fourth Ave., 682-4142. Trans-Asian techniques and "fusion" cooking. Some combinations can be startling.

Ponti Seafood Grill, 3014 Third Ave. N., 284-3000. Combines everything from Italian pasta to Thai curry sauces, Japanese with French.

China Gate, 516 Seventh Ave. S., 624-1730. Big menu. Best dim sum in town at present. Energetic bar scene.

Restaurant Shilla, 2300 Eighth Ave., 623-9996. Korean grills cooked at table, along with several Japanese specialties. Terrific kimchi - seven varieties.

Raga, 555 108th Ave. N.E., Bellevue, 450-0336. Best Indian restaurant in the Puget Sound area.

Takara, 1501 Western Ave., Pike Place Hillclimb. 682-8609. Traditional Japanese tempura, teriyaki, sushi and grand kasu black cod.

John Hinterberger, Times' food critic

-- Five downtown spots where you can get, yes, a latte!

Starbucks Coffee Co., 1912 Pike Place in the Pike Place Market, 448-8762. The birthplace of this city's fascination with gourmet coffees.

Seattle's Best Coffee On the Plaza at Westlake, 400 Pine St., 682-7182.

Torrefazione Italia, 320 Occidental Ave. S., 624-5773, and 622 Olive Way, 624-1429.

Cafe Paradiso, 1005 E. Pike St., 322-6960.

The Garden Court at the Four Seasons Olympic Hotel, 411 University St., 621-1700. Your coffee drinks are served with an array of condiments, including chocolate, cinnamon and different forms of sugar, allowing you to take it straight or flavor it to your liking.

-- Bars/restaurants where journalists hang out

Places the rest of you might want to avoid while they're there:

Duke's Bar and Grill on Queen Anne, 236 First Ave. W., 283-4400.

The Family Affair Restaurant, 234 Fairview Ave. N., 624-3382.

Kaspar's, 2701 First Ave., 441-4805.

-- New to town - and hungry?

Of course you are, and Times restaurant critic John Hinterberger has some ideas for you:

Hotel restaurants:

The Painted Table at the Alexis Hotel, 92 Madison St., 624-3646. Regional specialties and continental techniques.

Fullers, Seattle Sheraton Hotel, 1400 Sixth Ave., 447-5544. For several years one of the best kitchens in town.

The Hunt Club, Sorrento Hotel, 900 Madison St., 622-6400. Try the cocktail hour in front of the fire in the Lobby Bar or go down the street one block to Vito's, a local institution, for a truly stiff martini.

Nikko and the Palm Court at the Westin Hotel, 1900 Fifth Ave., 728-1000. A major sushi bar at Nikko; continental at the Palm Court.

The Georgian Room, Four Seasons Olympic Hotel, 411 University St., 621-7889 Formal but not stiff.

Tulio, Hotel Vintage Park, 1100 Fifth Ave., 624-8000. Boldly flavored Italian.

Strictly Seattle:

The Metropolitan Grill, 820 Second Ave., 624-3287. Steaks, chops, seafood and grills alongside a driving, nonstop bar.

McCormick & Schmick's, 1103 First Ave., 623-5500. Similar to the Met, but noisier, with more of a seafood tavern feel.

Canlis, 2576 Aurora Ave. N., 283-3313. Outside of the midtown core, with a sweeping view of Lake Union, THE establishment restaurant in Seattle for more than 40 years. Polynesian charbroiled steaks and seafood.

Athenian Inn, 1517 Pike Place Market, 624-7166. Food's ordinary. Fine view from upper back tables.

Ray's Boathouse, 6049 Seaview Ave. N.W., 789-3770. Seattle's signature seafood restaurant.

Saleh al Lago, 6804 E. Green Lake Way N., 524-4044. Superb Italian food.

-- Places the prez can jog, close in:

Myrtle Edwards Park, along the waterfront, north and short, but can be extended to Fisherman's Terminal.

Lake Washington Boulevard, east of downtown, from Leschi to Seward Park, about three miles.

Discovery Park, northwest of downtown on Magnolia Hill, wooded, about three miles if you can find all the trails.

Green Lake, north of downtown, less than three around the lake, but can be extended through wooded hills of Lower Woodland Park.

-- Five ways to take a chance

Bingo Today information hotline, 298-3646.

Pulltabs, Seattle Junior Hockey Bingo, I-5 exit 179, 7016 220th S.W., Mountlake Terrace, 776-1900.

Off-track betting, Longacres, Tukwila, Wednesday and Friday through Sunday, 624-2455.

Cards, Cliff's Tavern and Card Room, 910 N. 145th St., 367-0343.

Casino, Tulalip Casino, 6410 33rd Ave. N.E., Marysville, (206) 651-1111.

-- Five places downtown where you can buy lottery tickets:

West Coast Video, Columbia Tower.

First & Union Grocery, 1323 First Ave.

The Dog House Restaurant, 2230 Seventh Ave.

7-Eleven Food Store, 1920 Fourth Ave.

Evergreen State Store, Seattle Center, Center House.

-- If you want the Northwest look, think "Northern Exposure":

Recreational Equipment Inc., 1525 11th Ave., 323-8333.

Eddie Bauer, Fifth Avenue and Union, 622-2766.

Patagonia, 2100 First Ave., 622-9700.

M.J. Feet Birkenstock Footwear, 1514 Pike Place, 624-2929.

Filson Co. retail store, 1246 First Ave. S., 622-3147.

-- Sports bars, where you can drink, talk sports and second-guess everybody:

Bogey's, 1540 Eastlake E., 325-1702.

Jersey's, 2004 Seventh Ave., 343-9377.

RAM Cafe and Sports Bar, 4730 University Village Place N.E., 525-3565.

Sneakers Bar and Restaurant, 567 Occidental S., 625-1340.

Swannies, 222 S. Main, 622-9353.

University Sports Bar & Grill, 5260 University Way N.E., 526-1489.

-- Five movies shot in the Northwest you eventually might want to rent for a cheap revisit of the area:

"Body of Evidence," starring Madonna.

"Free Willy," starring a whale.

"The Vanishing," starring Kiefer Sutherland.

"The Hand That Rocks the Cradle," starring Rebecca De Mornay.

"Sleepless in Seattle," starring Meg Ryan and Tom Hanks.

-- One new movie, filmed on Seattle's Queen Anne Hill, you might want to see this spring:

"Little Buddha," starring Keanu Reeves.

-- Where to rent those hard-to-find videos:

Scarecrow Video, 5030 Roosevelt Way N.E., 524-8554. Opens Friday.

Top Hat Video, 4733 Brooklyn N.E., 525-1820.

Backtrack Video, 5339 25th N.E., 524-0529.

Broadway Video, 813 E. Republican, 328-5023.

-- Scoffing the law, or what it'll cost you in downtown Seattle to:

Jaywalk: $19.

Run a red light: $47.

Patronize a prostitute: $950 bail, up to $1,000 fine, up to 90 days in jail.

Dine 'n' dash: $450 bail, up to $5,000 fine, up to a year in jail.

Speed: $47 and up.

Let the parking meter expire: $20.

-- Five places to see movies that offer something completely different:

Pike St. Cinema, 1108 Pike St. (Pike at Boren), 682-7064.

Grand Illusion, 50th Street and University Way Northeast, 523-3935.

911 Media Arts Center, 117 Yale Ave. N., 682-6552.

The Weathered Wall, 1921 Fifth Ave., 448-5688.

The New Varsity, 4329 University Way N.E., 632-3131.

-- Anyone who still insists on buying "grunge wear" can buy it where the original garage rockers bought it:

Pike Place Outfitters, 93 Pike St., 622-3573.

Federal Army & Navy Surplus, 2112 First Ave., 443-1818.

Capitol Hill Camping & Surplus, 910 E. Pike St., 325-3566.

Value Village, 2929 27th S., 723-5000.

Chubby & Tubby, 7906 Aurora N., 524-1810.

-- Best local music, of all sorts:

Pearl Jam.

Nirvana.

Diane Schuur.

Ernestine Anderson.

Soundgarden.

-- Five hottest places to see real Seattle grunge groups play music:

RKCNDY, 1812 Yale, 623-0470.

The Crocodile Cafe, 2200 Second Ave., 448-2114.

Off Ramp, 109 Eastlake E., 628-0232.

The Weathered Wall, 1921 Fifth Ave., 448-5688.

Colourbox, 113 First Ave., 340-4101.

-- Five hottest clubs in town for somewhat older people:

Dimitriou's Jazz Alley, 2033 Sixth Ave., 441-9729.

The Backstage, 2208 N.W. Market St., 781-2805.

The Ballard Firehouse, N.W. Market and Russell streets, 784-3516.

Doc Maynard's, 610 First Ave., 682-4649.

Old Timer's Cafe, 620 First Ave., 623-9800.

-- Alcohol-free night spots:

OK Hotel, 212 Alaskan Way S., 621-7903.

Oz, 131 Taylor Ave. N., 448-0888.

The Underground, 4518 University Way N.E., 548-9362.

-- Five places to find out-of-town or out-of-country newspapers, books or magazines:

Read All About It International Newsstand, First Avenue and Pike Street (Pike Place Market). 624-0140.

Steve's Broadway News, 204 Broadway Ave. E. (Capitol Hill). 324-7323.

Bulldog News, 4208 University Way N.E. (University District). 632-6397. Also: 401 Broadway Ave. E. 322-6397.

Kinokuniya Book Store, 519 Sixth Ave. S. (above Uwajimaya in the International District). 587-2477.

University Book Store, 4326 University Way N.E. (University District). Magazines, books only. 634-3400.

-- A couple of places those of a literary bent might want to book:

Elliott Bay Book Company, 101 Main St. (624-6600), carries a wide selection of literature and features a cozy cafe on its lower level.

Shorey's Books, 1411 First Ave. (624-0221), is ideal for the book browser. At age 103, it is Seattle's oldest bookstore, and carries a huge stock of used and antiquarian books.

-- Churches/temples where spirits can soar

St. James Catholic Cathedral, 804 Ninth Ave., Seattle. 622-3559. One of the most beautiful churches in Seattle.

Seattle Buddhist Church, 1427 S. Main St., Seattle. 329-0800. Of the Jodo Shinshu sect, this ornate temple is just east of the city's International District.

University Presbyterian Church, 4540 15th Ave. N.E., Seattle. 524-7300. The Rev. Earl Palmer packs them in with erudite, witty sermons.

Sakya Monastery of Tibetan (nonsectarian) Buddhism, 108 N.W. 83rd St., Seattle. 789-2573. Recently consecrated by the Dalai Lama, spiritual leader of Tibetan Buddhism.

St. Mark's Episcopal Cathedral, 1245 10th Ave. E., Seattle, 323-0300. The cathedral for Western Washington Episcopalians, home of magnificent Flentrop organ.

Mount Zion Baptist Church, 1634 19th Ave., Seattle, 322-6500. Historic, predominantly African-American church in central city. Seattle Mayor Norm Rice and Gov. Mike Lowry, among other political leaders, are members.

Temple De Hirsch Sinai, 1511 E. Pike St., Seattle. 323-8486. Largest Jewish synagogue in the Northwest.

Seattle First Baptist Church, 1111 Harvard Ave., Seattle. 325-6051. The Rev. Rodney Romney, senior pastor, often is cited as one of the best preachers in Seattle.

Indriss Mosque, 1420 N.E. Northgate Way, Seattle. 363-3013. This is the principal place of worship for the Seattle area's Muslim community.

University Friends Meeting, 4001 Ninth Ave. N.E., Seattle. 547-6449. Traditional Quaker service of unprogrammed silent worship.

-- Six Seattle claims to fame you might not know:

United Parcel Service, which annually carries more packages than the U.S. Postal Service, was founded here in 1907 by Jim Casey, who began his career as a teenage delivery boy.

The nation's largest unsolved serial murder case, the Green River killings of 49 female victims a decade ago, occurred here.

This is the American - and Latin American - headquarters of Nintendo Inc.

John Olerud, first baseman for the World Series champs, the Toronto Blue Jays, and winner of this year's American League batting championship, played ball for Interlake High School in suburban Bellevue.

The term "Skid Row" originated here during early logging days when trees skidded along a downtown road, into Puget Sound and then to the sawmills. Only Seattleites call it "Skid Road."

Increasingly this area is becoming a film-production location, so it pays to keep your eyes open for stars. Seen recently: Keanu Reeves, Steven Seagal, Michael Caine, Kelly Lynch, Ice-T, Jeff Bridges and Rutger Hauer - but not all together.

-- Getting to Cicely, Alaska ("Northern Exposure" land):

Better known in these parts as Roslyn, Wash.: Drive east on I-90 about 90 minutes to exit 80. The Brick is Cicely's historic tavern. There's a wonderful old cemetery to explore in this tiny turn-of-the-century mining town.

If "Twin Peaks" reruns light your fire, the shows and film were shot in and around Snoqualmie Falls and North Bend, about 45 minutes east of Seattle. Take I-90 to exit 27 and drive north to the falls where the Salish Lodge's exterior doubled as the Peak's Great Northern Hotel. (Interiors were shot at Kiana Lodge on the Olympic Peninsula.)

From the falls follow the road to North Bend and have a "damn fine" cup of coffee and "died and gone to heaven" cherry pie at The Mar-T Cafe, known in Twin Peaks as the Double R Diner.

-- Locations of five pieces of public art Seattle is famous for:

"Hammering Man," by Jonathan Borofsky, in front of the Seattle Art Museum, at the corner of First Avenue and University Street.

Henry Moore's "Three Piece Vertebrae," 1001 Fourth Ave. Building plaza.

The Metro Bus Tunnel, in its entirety, is loaded with it. Get on at any downtown station. Ride all five downtown stops, from Convention Place to the International Street station. The ride is free.

"Black Sun" by Isamu Noguchi, facing the Seattle Art Museum's Volunteer Park building on Capitol Hill.

"Waiting for the Interurban," by Richard Beyer, at the north end of the Fremont Bridge. Expect the figures to be dressed up.

-- Ways to get on the water:

To paddle or sail:

Northwest Outdoor Center, 2100 Westlake Ave. N., 281-9694.

University of Washington Waterfront Activity Center, on Lake Washington southeast of Husky Stadium, 543-9433.

The Center for Wooden Boats, 1010 Valley St. on South Lake Union, 382-2628. Classic sail and row boats.

Catch a ferry:

It's an hour-plus round trip to Bainbridge Island, about two hours round trip to Bremerton. Ferries leave frequently from Colman Dock at Pier 52, call 464-6400. (You can't ferry to the San Juan Islands from Seattle, you have to drive to Anacortes.)

Tour by water:

Seattle Harbor Tours, 623-1445. One-hour narrated cruises of Elliott Bay, from Pier 55. A 2 1/2-hour harbor and locks tour, Pier 57.

The Spirit of Puget Sound, 443-1442, lunch, brunch and dinner buffet cruises from Pier 70.

Leave the country by water:

Victoria Clipper, 448-5000. You can get to Victoria, B.C., by catamaran. From Pier 69.

-- Some of the best postcard-perfect views (fog permitting):

The Space Needle's observation deck, Seattle Center. Restaurant reservations, 443-2100.

Kerry Park, West Highland Drive, one block west of Queen Anne Avenue North on Queen Anne Hill just north of downtown. Views of the downtown skyline and Elliott Bay framed by Doris Chase's 15-foot-tall "Changing Form" sculpture.

Any ferry ride from downtown.

The West Seattle waterfront to Alki Point.

Discovery Park on the west side of Magnolia Hill northwest of downtown, entrance at 36th Avenue West and West Government Way.

-- McDonald's Restaurants closest to where the president is staying:

Third Avenue and Pine Street.

1122 Madison Ave.

Sixth Avenue and Virginia Street.

801 Alaskan Way.

-- Fast, fast food Bill ought to try:

Ezell's Chicken: fried chicken (Oprah's fave!) and fixings. Central District, 501 23rd Ave., 324-4141; University District, 4216 University Way N.E., 548-1455.

Toshi's Teriyaki: Huge portions, cheap and good. Nine locations in Seattle, the closest to downtown at 2213 Fourth Ave., 448-9373.

Turkish Delight: 1930 Pike Place Market (close to Virginia), 443-1387. Try the borek - puffed pastry stuffed with spinach and cheese, chicken and mushroom.

Oriental Kitchenette: 1506 Pike Place (almost kitty-corner from Rachel the pig in the Pike Place Market), 622-8488. The adobo and pancit are good, or just sit on one of the bar stools and point.