Exceptional Cuisine From Georgian Republic

Oct 15, 1993

John Hinterberger

----------------------------------------------------------- Restaurant review XXX Pirosmani, 2220 Queen Anne Ave. N. ($$$) Georgian-Mediterranean. Dinner ($15 to $20) 5:30 to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday; until 10:30 Friday, Saturday. Closed Sunday, Monday. No lunch. Beer, wine. Major credit cards. No smoking (except at outside tables). No wheelchair access. Reservations: 285-3360. -----------------------------------------------------------

Georgian on my mind . . .

As it will be on yours after a visit or two to Pirosmani.

This exceptional ethnic restaurant features foods from the former southern Soviet republic of Georgia along with a selection of Mediterranean specialties - southern France, Morocco, Italy, Greece and Spain. It opened not quite six months ago and rapidly gained a reputation and an appreciative clientele.

Pirosmani, named for the folk painter Niko Pirosmani (1862-1918), is the creation of three local enthusiasts of Georgian "table": chef Laura Dewell, previously with Fullers; tavern master Dan Cowan (of Murphy's Pub and Cooper's Ale House), and arts writer-columnist Keith Raether, formerly of the Tacoma Morning News Tribune.

Georgian cuisine is not well known here, and its establishment in a converted house atop Queen Anne is not a matter of whimsical ethnic fancy. Dewell traveled to Georgia as part of a chef's cultural exchange in 1988. Raether lived and worked in the Georgian republic in 1990.

Their collaboration, therefore, has the fervor and flavor of dedicated true believers - and what flavors these are.

Georgia, with a warm climate and 300 days of sunshine annually, is on the same latitude as Barcelona and Rome. This is not a cuisine born of potatoes, cabbage and desperation. As the poet Pushkin noted: "Every Georgian dish is a poem."

If you order from the Georgian side of the menu, you'll be started with a plate of sliced peasant bread, butter and a platter of three condiment-relishes: Tkremali, a tart plum sauce with dill, marjoram, garlic, mint and cayenne; Svaneti salt, a mix of sea salt, garlic, cayenne, coriander, black pepper and fenugreek; and either a red or green Adjika: ground red or green chili peppers, celery heart, basil, garlic and a bit of mint.

The bursts of flavors from these additives are almost explosive, but not harsh. They are added to meats, vegetables, breads, etc., to heighten what to me are already pronounced, boldly seasoned plates.

Such as the Khachapuri and Spinach Pkhali ($6.25), an appetizer of Georgian cheese bread made with a blend of melted, fresh mozzarella and feta, sandwiched much like a large quesadilla, sliced into wedges and served with a pate of spinach with walnuts, cilantro, garlic and onion.

A little more restrained, Khinkali ($5.75) is a another starter - a ground pork and beef dumpling accented with mint and mixed spices. It has a distinctly Mideastern flavor, but resembles in texture and appearance a Chinese dim sum dumpling. Some techniques are universal.

Badrijani Nigvzit and Gadazelili ($7.50) resides far easier on the palate than tripping across on the non-Georgian tongue. But it consists of grilled eggplant folded over a puree of walnuts, coriander, cilantro and garlic; with Georgia flatbread (deda puri) and fresh farmer's cheese with mint.

Among the more familiar starters from the Med side of the menu are Panzanella ($5.25), the peasant bread salad tossed with tomato, cucumber, lemon, herbs and extra virgin olive oil; and a Spanish (Catalan) Chicken Brochette ($7.50).

Cubes of tender breast meat are marinated in honey, sherry vinegar, cumin and garlic. It's grilled and served over a bed of warm spinach that was itself so simple and perfect (salt, pepper, butter) and drizzled with the chicken marinade, that one was tempted to grab the next flight to Barcelona.

The list of main courses is limited - five Georgian specialties and three Mediterranean - priced from $13 to $18.50, with a few nightly specials.

Tabaka Chicken ($14.95) is a split poussin (young chicken), flattened, seared and served with a walnut sauce of saffron, garlic and coriander, along with a mound of couscous.

Lamb Chakapuli ($15.75), a spring lamb stew, was the only dish we tried that was less than rousing. Augmented with rather bland plums, fenugreek and tarragon, it was a pleasant enough dish - but not the culinary adventure that the rest of the card provided.

Kupdari ($15.25) is a section of thin, rib-eye steak, served inside Georgian flatbread, with the above-mentioned spinach pate and eggplant popover.

A single disappointment was a plate of Sauteed Sicilian-style Prawns ($16.25), tiger prawns with fennel, pine nuts, tomato and lemon, that had a persistent metallic quality - possibly from a marinade or interaction of lemon with a saute pan.

We've tried only one dessert, a bewitching terrine of chocolate laced with dried fruits and red wine-poached figs puddled in a creme Anglaise.

Pirosmani is a warm, inviting place, with hand-painted plum-colored walls, white linen, flickering candles - bubbling with the animated conversations of its discoverers.