Bothell's Timeless Ranch Does Things Its Own Way

Restaurant review

The Ranch Drive In, 18218 Bothell Way N.E., Bothell. Open Sunday through Thursday, 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 10 a.m. to 11 p.m. No credit cards. 486-2677.

BOTHELL - When you've been in business as long as The Ranch Drive In - which appears to be at least longer than anyone working behind the counter has been alive - there must be a reason.

That the Ranch is not too far from a high school doesn't hurt since burgers and fries are the stuff of life for many teens. But the Ranch hasn't survived on the youth dollar alone. There's plenty of the rest of us stopping in as well, and we've been stopping in since, well, before the help was born.

The first and foremost attraction of the Ranch, at least for me, is that it's an original. There isn't another Ranch in Kenmore or Lynnwood or Woodinville. It means the restaurant does things its own way. The dressing on the burgers - a favored mayo base - isn't the dressing you get at Mac's or BK. The only thing precooked is the bacon that goes on the bacon burger and bacon Ranch burger.

The menu is relatively simple, which keeps your options focused. You get in, you get out. Unless of course you want to stay, and the small seating area is perfectly comfortable for that.

For me, the item of choice has always been one of the burgers, it was just a matter of size and extra condiments. The standard Ranch burger ($2.79) is almost always enough. A quarter-pound grilled burger with all the toppings on a sesame-seed bun. For real carnivores, the double Ranch burger ($3.79), which is a half-pound of meat.

If you want even more meat, there's the bacon Ranch ($3.79). For the petite eater, there's the deluxe burger ($1.99). It's the same extras, just a little less meat.

If you'd rather have a hot dog, there's the jumbo ($2.49) and the junior ($1.39).

If your appetite wants a little more than burger, the steak sandwich is a fine third-of-a-pound treat ($4.50). The fish-and-fries dinner ($3.99) is two good-sized pieces of cod with a mound of fries and cole slaw. There's also a prawns and fries and the fish sandwich ($2.39). If you want to keep it real simple, try the grilled cheese ($1.99).

The other side of the Ranch is the shakes, malts, sundaes and cones. It isn't uncommon to see people coming up to the window at 10:30 in the morning for a triple dip. Shakes ($1.39 and $1.89) and malts ($1.59 and $2.09) come in 18 flavors, from the expected chocolate and vanilla to more exotic flavors like pumpkin and peanut butter.

A half-dozen sundaes run from $1.49 to $2.49, and the banana split is $2.79. There are all manner of variations on the cone, and if you really love soft chocolate and vanilla ice cream, you can get it to go by the pint ($1.45), quart ($2.45) or half-gallon ($3.95).

One other thing: even though the Ranch has been around presumably since the dawn of time, it's one of the nicest, cleanest burger huts you're going to find.

Neighborhood Eats is a regular Thursday feature of the Seattle Times. Reviewers visit restaurants unannounced and pay in full for all their meals. When they interview members of the restaurant management and staff, they do so only after the meals and services have been appraised.