My Aunt's Coleslaw Worth Extra Fussing

I never mind some extra fussing in the kitchen if the results are worth it, and today's recipe for My Aunt's Coleslaw definitely is worth it.

It's from the personal favorites section of "Jeremiah Tower's New American Classics" cookbook. The coleslaw is a tribute to the San Francisco restaurateur's aunt in Washington, D.C., who nurtured his love for good food. He recalls her serving it with boiled lobster and butter.

Tower wrote: "The whole key to the success of this dish, I was firmly but very gently told, is to cut the cabbage and tomatoes in large pieces and to soak the cabbage in ice water in the refrigerator for four hours. Then you have to peel and seed the ripe tomatoes, and the dressed slaw has to sit in the refrigerator for a couple of hours to achieve perfect flavor and texture."

The sauce of mayonnaise and sour cream is flavored with fresh and powdered ginger and dry mustard. And indeed, this coleslaw is an inspired blending of flavors and textures. And now's the time to make it, when large, juicy, ripe tomatoes are available.

Reserve this recipe for weekends, when you can be home to prepare the cabbage for its cold bath. If you're planning dinner at about 6 p.m., you'll need to cut the cabbage about noon. But with that task completed, you have a four-hour break to play.

This coleslaw is especially good served with grilled seafood, chicken or beef.

My Aunt's Coleslaw

6 servings

1 medium head cabbage

4 large ripe tomatoes

1/2 cup mayonnaise

1/2 cup sour cream

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh ginger

1 teaspoon powdered ginger

1 1/2 teaspoons dry mustard

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. Discard any of the outer leaves of the cabbage that are wilted or discolored. Cut the cabbage in half from top to bottom and cut out the core. Put each half, cut side down, on the cutting board and cut into 1/2-inch square pieces.

2. Put the cabbage in a large bowl, cover with cold water and ice cubes, and refrigerate for 4 hours.

3. Peel and seed the tomatoes. Cut each tomato half into 6 pieces.

4. Mix the mayonnaise, sour cream, fresh and powdered gingers, mustard, salt and pepper in a bowl.

5. Drain the cabbage very well and mix thoroughly with the sauce. Add the tomatoes and toss lightly. Refrigerate covered for 2 hours. Serve very cold.

Weekend Eats by Larry Brown appears the second and fourth Saturdays of each month.