Decoding Denim -- Knowing The Numbers Helps When Choosing The Right Shapes, For A Fitting Of The Blues

First, there were 501s. Then came 505s, 517s and 550s.

When Levi Strauss created 501 jeans in 1873, he probably had no intention of giving the blues to men and women of all shapes and sizes.

But through the years, that's what happened.

And while the original 501 button-fly jeans remain Levi Strauss and Co's. hottest seller, they don't fit everyone.

The same goes for The Gap's Classic Fit jeans for women, though the name may suggest otherwise.

So what's a jean virgin to do? You've seen enough of the black and white ads with the smiling sexy young things in faded 501s to assume those are the most popular Levi cut, but will they look or feel right on you?

Not if you've got muscular thighs or a stocky build.

For men with extra hulk, 550s or 560s could be the best bet. They're like 501s, but have a more relaxed fit with extra room in the thigh and seat regions. The 560s are roomier than the 550s, and both are tapered at the ankle.

Sound complicated?

The Gap boasts a similar variety.

Younger and naturally slender gals prefer the Slim Fit jeans that accentuate their lean figures.

But shorter and, say, hippier, women seeking a flattering fit that will camouflage their curves should check out the Reverse Fit, says Steve Garvin, downtown Gap store manager.

The Reverse Fit offers a fuller cut at the thigh and is tapered at the bottom providing "a nicer silhouette for women who may feel uncomfortable with tighter jeans," he adds.

There are no hard and fast rules that say certain fits will be most flattering to certain body types, but Garvin says store employees are trained to advise consumers on what's most flattering.

Some women will be able to look good in every fit, while others may look all wrong in the Big Fit, which hugs the waist but features a straight wide leg cut.

"This one looks good with platform shoes," says Garvin. "It's very sixties."

Brad Williams, a marketing specialist for Levi's, says 554s, which feature a relaxed fit and straight leg, are another option for guys who like to wear boots.

"Grungeheads in Seattle can wear this jean over their boots," he says.

As for the 501 mystique and its reputation for reliability and comfort, Williams digresses and waxes poetic on possibly the most popular jean in the world.

"The 501s go outside the classic fit area," he says. "They're a real American icon. They've been fundamentally unchanged for 150 years. The denim actually conforms to the wearer's body."

He says that some mysterious but unique property in the denim makes the jeans do this after you wash and wear them. "They literally become your jeans. Levi's 501s are like snowflakes. No two 501s are the same."

As if all the different cuts of jeans weren't cryptic enough, there's the assortment of finishes.

Few, except maybe purists, prefer the stiff deep indigo blue finish of the original 501s, says Williams. The already lived-in look sells faster these days. And it is not accomplished simply by pre-washing a dozen times.

Both The Gap and Levi's offer denim that has been scrubbed with pumice stones for vintage look. Others are sandblasted for a softer, even more worn look.

And if you don't care for the dingy gray blues, there's always the natural blue with a hint of purple, or overdyed blue, which is darker, and bleached blue, which is lighter.

Finally, the price tag varies. Depending on the style, Levi's will run anywhere from $25 to $50 at J.C. Penney, Levi's largest retailer. Gap jeans cost $34 to $44.

------------------------------------------------------ JEANSSPEAK

Never was there a more unisex article of clothing than jeans. However, the following Levi's are described as men's styles and The Gap jeans as women's styles.

Levi's

501: the original straight leg, button-fly jean - one inch longer than other cuts

505: 501s with a zipper

550: relaxed fit, looser through thigh and seat, tapered ankle

554: 550s with a straight leg so they can be worn over boots

560: fuller than 550s, loose fit with a tapered ankle.

517: slim fit with a straight boot cut and slight flare at the bottom

512: slim fit with a higher cut waist

The Gap

Classic Fit: slight curve through the hip, tapered ankle

Slim Fit: slender, straight leg cut, tapered from hip to ankle

Loose Fit: straight leg boot cut, hangs lower on hip, looser through thigh

Reverse Fit: fuller cut through thigh, tapered ankle

Big Fit: baggier fit, hugs waist, wide legged from thigh to ankle

Baggy Fit: new cut somewhere between reverse and big fits, tapered ankle (expected in stores this summer)