Adriatica Menu Still Robust, Yet Elegant

Apr 2, 1993

John Hinterberger

XXX Adriatica, 1107 Dexter Ave. N. ($$$) Mediterranean specialties. Dinner ($13 to $20) 5:30 to 10 p.m. Sunday through Wednesday; until 11 p.m. Thursday through Saturday. No lunch. View lounge, full bar. Major credit cards. Nonsmoking area. Reservations: 285-5000. ------------------------------------------------------------------- Over the years I have dropped into the Adriatica, that multistoried walk-up edifice on Dexter overlooking Lake Union, every few months or so - usually for a quick meeting or a quiet drink in the upstairs bar, looking out at the lights of the city.

It came as a bit of a surprisewhen my research showed that despite occasional mentions in print, I had not reviewed this bastion of Italian, Greek and Balkan cooking for almost nine years.

Considering that Adriatica has been one of Seattle's finest and most reliable ethnic kitchens since it opened in May 1980, that's far too long. The place was created (in space that was earlier a continental restaurant called Chez Paul) by Jim and Connie Malevitsis and John Sarich, its first chef.

Sarich has since moved on to become a local TV chef. But the Malevitsises have remained - and expanded their interests north to Ponti in Fremont. Chef Nancy Flume has guided the kitchen with flair for the past dozen years since Sarich's departure.

The original concepts have been preserved, however: peasant foods elevated to the point of elegance; robust flavors of the culinary cultures around the Adriatic Sea re-created with art, but without pretense. You may arrive in an evening dress, but you likely will leave with garlic on your breath.

Especially if you start with Calamari Fritti with Skorthalia ($7.25), the first appetizer to inspire the city with a passion for fried squid along with a garlic dipping sauce of unabashed potency. It has been replicated dozens of times (perhaps hundreds) by admiring restaurateurs, and occasionally equaled, but never excelled. Carry a box of Altoids (although the management maintains a large box of mints near the exit).

Other starters of note:

Pan-Sauteed Fresh Oysters with Remoulade Sauce ($6.75) and European-style Smoked Salmon ($8.50), "locally smoked by Gerard and Dominique." The latter, which is outstanding, is served with black bread, creme fraiche and gold caviar.

The lightly floured and herbed oysters are pan-crisped to a deep gold-brown and served over a small bed of wild greens with a tub of a hearty remoulade (like a tartar sauce with an attitude).

A basket of the Grand Central Bakery's great, chewy baguette comes sliced with the appetizers - as does a chilled glass of Chardonnay, which might be considered a stopping point for some. Instead, rest for a moment and press on.

The Warm Cabbage Salad ($5.25) may be the best of its kind in the city. Red cabbage is tossed to a tender-but-crisp stage with toasted walnuts, chevre and bacon cubes in a balsamic-walnut oil vinaigrette. The effect was pretty and substantial, with a pompon of fresh watercress over the top.

Equally appealing were Belgian Endive Spears with Shrimp ($6.75). The individual leaves, and plump semicircles of seafood, were topped with toasted walnuts, crumbles of Roquefort cheese and bacon - all drizzled over with a creamy raspberry vinegar and walnut oil dressing.

You might even consider starting a dinner by splitting a Greek Pizza ($6.75) from the bar menu. It's concocted with prawns, Greek olives (too few on our last visit), feta and mozzarella cheeses, and served with a hot pepper olive oil. The crust is sometimes less elastic and chewy than a conventional Italian pie; a bit tougher and more crackerlike, but it's popular.

Entrees range from $14.95 for Crepenettes (homemade pork and spinach sausages) to $19.50 for charcoal-grilled Lamb Loin Chops, basted with olive oil, lemon and oregano. Also for $19.50: grilled Filet Mignon, basted and served with an unusual and savory Marsala-rosemary butter sauce.

Priced in between are a half dozen other choices, including: Duck Confit Salad, Peppered Rib-eye Steak, Pork Tenderloin (with Port and sun-dried cranberries) and Chicken Demetri.

The chicken entree ($14.95) is surprisingly simple and succulently splendid (if you can handle all of that sincere alliteration). Two boneless supremes are lightly breaded with herbs and Parmesan cheese, pan-sauteed and finished with lemon butter, then served with bistro fried potatoes and vegetables.

The Crepenettes, three discs of the house-made sausage, are almost boisterous in their herbs and seasonings - especially garlic. It is a dish you will likely enjoy mightily and ruminate over for at least part of the day afterward. Particularly outstanding are the oven-roasted garlic potatoes served with them.

Adriatica offers a couple of nightly seafood choices (King salmon, $18.50, and Canadian halibut, $19.50, lately), and there's usually a Risotto special ($14.50) as well. I was impressed by a recent version graced with tomato, fresh basil ribbons and a bounty of tender oyster mushrooms.

A point of irritation: the old, plain bentwood chairs are hard, inelegant and uncomfortable. After 13 happy and successful years, they are ready for replacement.