Sandwich Shop Serves Comfort Food In Comfort

Antique Sandwich Company, 5102 N. Pearl St., Tacoma. Opens 7 a.m. daily, 8 a.m. on Sundays. Closing hours depending on day. Takeout available. No smoking, no credit cards. Personal checks. Live music every Tuesday and Friday night. Classical music every Sunday afternoon. 1-206-752-4069.

A lot of folks think of them as "overgrown hippies" running an early-'70s, hippie-style eating establishment.

Shirley Herridge - one of three owners of the Antique Sandwich Company - is unsure how the label came about.

From a strictly generational standpoint, it is true that she, Tamie Herridge and Dick Meyer are of the flower-child era. And Herridge will readily admit that the Antique Sandwich Company has a sort of free-loving, living room-type feel to it. There's even a play area for children. Beyond that, though, she really doesn't get the connection. But she likes it all the same.

"It has a warm sound to it," Herridge says, after a moment of quiet contemplation. "It conjures up a way of treating people with warmth."

The Antique Sandwich Company, which today serves as refuge for a diverse mix of Tacomans wishing to trade in the chaos of the outside world for a tranquil afternoon curled up with a heaping plate of satisfying food, a steaming cup of jo and a good book, started out 20 years ago as a coffee, tea and antique shop.

Herridge, along with her sister-in-law Tamie and mother-in-law, Arlene, decided it would be fun to go into business together. None of them had any experience in the food industry, but adding sandwiches to their coffee and tea selection seemed like a natural progression. The menu evolved into what the Antique Sandwich Company is known for today - hearty sandwiches, savory entrees and tantalizing desserts.

The antique shop, which once graced the top floor of the cafe, no longer exists. But many of the store's finest collectibles remain, making patrons who stop by the cafe feel as though they've taken a step back in time.

Antique rugs, tea kettles and works of art line the walls and window sills. A large marble statue looms in the center of the room. Seating is an array of differently shaped old oak tables, booths and a sofa. Ceiling fans, chandeliers and lamps add to the inviting atmosphere. The building is a bit of an antique, having originally housed an IGA grocery store.

"Fresh" and "healthy" are the catchwords at this restaurant.

Though they don't consider themselves health-food nuts, the owners strive to make the cafe's menu "wholesome." Thus the jars of honey where you'd expect to find sugar bowls, the wheat saltines that accompany every bowl of soup and the preference for alfalfa sprouts. White bread won't be found at this cafe, only Russian rye or wheat.

The menu offers sandwiches ranging from hummus, sprouts and tomato to sardine. Garden quiche and spinach lasagna are also mainstays, as well as several salads. Prices are reasonable, with most entrees about $5.

I can vouch for the meatloaf sandwich and the cheese, sprouts and tomato sandwich. Each are piled high and accompanied by a salad loaded with crisp greens and a tasty creamy house dressing. The turkey-noodle soup, packed with thick homemade noodles and tender chunks of turkey, is the best I've had.

Whatever you choose for your main course, be sure to save room for dessert, the highlight of the menu.

For $2.75, you can sample the rich, creamy chocolate-espresso cheesecake, a mouthwatering sensation guaranteed to satisfy even the most finicky taste buds.

The tranquil atmosphere of the Antique Sandwich Company turns lively on Tuesday nights when an open mike invitation is extended to anyone wishing to perform. Friday nights also feature live music from some of the area's most talented artists. Sunday afternoons are reserved for live classical music.

The philosophy behind the Antique Sandwich Company is simple: provide a warm, inviting place for people to come, sit back and relax over some great food and a cup of fresh-ground coffee.

I'd say it's working.

Restaurant reviews are a regular Thursday feature of the South County Life section. Reviewers visit restaurants unannounced and pay in full for all their meals. When they interview members of the restaurant management and staff, they do so only after the meals and services have been appraised.