Top 50 Bargains -- Here Are Enough Good Wine Values To Fill The Shopping Cart

WHITES

Reserve St. Martin White, $4: Just new on shelves is this French country white that is a blend of several Rhone Valley grapes. The style is quite dry and fragrant with substantial flavors. It also comes in handy magnums but at no price break (you expected even less?).

Dasandro 1991 Soave, $4: Just when you thought a soave couldn't get any cheaper, one did. Despite the price, this is a very pleasant, soft and clean version.

Rene Barbier Mediterranean White, $4: Normally I shy away from Spanish whites (often oxidized and stale). But not this fresh and clean little number from the Penedes district (home of the Spanish sparklers). There's a nifty red version called Mediterranean red, too.

Liberty School Three Valley White 1990, $5.50: As the name suggests, this is a blend from three different areas of Northern California. But more interesting is the fact that it is a similar Bordeaux-style grape mix as the more prestigious Conundrum, made by the same winery (Camus).

Ouro do Minho non-vintage, $6: Never had a vinho verde (green wine) from Portugal? It isn't really green; that's just the description for fresh, youthful whites of that region. This little bargain is worth seeking out. It has a vanilla, spicy nose with a fresh, soft texture. Low in alcohol, too.

Chateau de Baun 1990 Chateau Blanc, $6: A curious blend of chardonnay and symphony grapes gives this inexpensive white from Sonoma a refreshing, tasty character with plenty of fruit.

Montevina Winery 1991 Fume Blanc, $6.50: Here's a real discovery from Amador County that couldn't be more pleasant for its bright pear fruit and crisp, dry finish.

Coldridge 1991 Semillon-Chardonnay, $6.50: This blend of "sem-chard" comes from Australia, where the idea started in the first place. Despite the attractive price, it's a very drinkable example with abundant fruit and balance.

Rocca delle Macie 1989 Orvieto Classico, $7: Here's that classic Italian white with its dry, crisp and fruity style. Made from a variety of Italian varietals in the region of Umbria, it is always a good bet for Northwest seafood.

Ste. Chapelle 1991 Dry Johannisberg Riesling, $7: Everybody seems to be making dry riesling in the Northwest these days. But this Idaho version has plenty of apricot flavors with a crisp, dry finish.

Hogue Cellars 1991 Semillon, $7: Like to pick up a bottle of one of Washington's most award-winning wines this year? This semillon (a grand sweepstakes winner at the big '92 San Francisco Wine Competition) is for you. One California wine writer called it the best semillon he'd ever tasted.

Bogle 1991 Chardonnay, $7: Bogle has been around a long time, but recently has made a comeback with an attractive new black-and-red label and some nice wines. This chardonnay, a blend from different growing regions of California including Carneros, shows apple, citrus and some tropical character.

Glen Ellen 1991 Proprietor's Reserve Chardonnay, $7: At that price, it's about as good as it gets. Fresh clean flavors and a soft finish.

Chateau Ste. Michelle 1990 Semillon, $7: This was a banner year for Washington semillon, with the variety winning national awards everywhere. Ste. Michelle's has stood out from the crowd for its delicious taste and style.

Buena Vista 1990 Lake County Sauvignon Blanc, $8: Buena Vista's version of this dry white is, for my money, one of California's best. It has abundant fruit, a refreshing style and is very food-friendly.

Knudsen Erath 1990 Dry Gewurztraminer, $7: With a wonderfully floral nose and pleasing, spicy flavors, this wine is a natural with any meal remotely Asian or Pacific Rim. Nice aperitif, too.

Lindeman's 1991 Bin 65 Chardonnay, $7.50: Fruity with tropical undertones, this is another example of good-value wines from Australia.

Stevenot 1990 Chardonnay, $8: From a little winery in California's Gold Rush Country, this one is a real discovery. It displays apple and spice in the bouquet and has a delightful crisp style. Just a whisper of oak.

Mitchelton 1991 Chardonnay, $8: From the state of Victoria in southern Australia, this is perhaps less tropical in style from many of its mates, but has fresh, clean flavors of pear and apple.

Estancia 1990 Chardonnay, $9: I've long enjoyed the brisk fresh fruit and clean flavors of this California wine. It's a sister brand to Franciscan in the Napa Valley.

Staton Hills non-vintage Glacier Chardonnay, $9: This secondary and lighter-styled chardonnay from the Yakima Valley producer gets better each year. This one is richer, has more intense flavors and even sports a new label.

Knudsen Erath non-vintage Dundee Villages, $9: Imagine an Oregon pinot noir for that price. It's light but flavorful and perfect for those autumn menus. Cool it slightly before serving, much like you would a beaujolais.

Hawk Crest 1990 Chardonnay, $10: A second label from the prestigious Stags Leap Wine Cellars, Hawk Crest can always be counted on to produce excellent chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon for the money.

Zillah Oakes 1989 Aligote, $10: Hardly anybody, except the Burgundians, grow aligote. But Zillah Oakes and its parent winery, Covey Run, over in the Yakima Valley, have proudly produced a white from this obscure grape for a decade. It's a real discovery for lovers of crisp, lean whites with a real affinity for fresh seafood.

Allison Combs 1989 Sauvignon Blanc, $10.50 for a magnum: The Allison Combs wines, made by Columbia Crest, never show better than in this fresh, fruity and balanced sauvignon blanc.

Monterey Vineyards Classic Chardonnay, $11.30 for a magnum: A happy combination of some very well-made California chardonnay in a larger sized container (that figures out to $5.65 a fifth).

REDS

Casarsa Vintners 1990 Merlot, $4.50: I double checked this price twice when I found it hard to believe that such a delightful, fruity and down-right drinkable red would be so affordable. Trust me. It is.

San Jose de Santiago 1990 Cabernet Sauvignon, $5: Another of those good values from Chile, this one is soft and fruity and just the ticket for grilled meats.

Gato Negro 1988 Cabernet Sauvignon, $5: I see this Chilean red with its black cat on the label almost everywhere. But I first saw it in South America where, while traveling on a budget, I realized it was the best buy there. Now it's here to soothe our stretched budgets.

Santa Rita "120" Cabernet Sauvignon, $5.50: How do they do it? The Chileans, I mean. How can they make a red wine so tasty at such a low price? After a trip there, and even a visit to this cellar, I can't answer. Just enjoy.

Frescobaldi Borraie Rosso, $6: From a top chianti producer in Tuscany comes this blended red, which contains nearly enough sangiovese grapes to be called a chianti itself. Very floral in the nose with nice fruit and spice in the mouth.

Chateau Beauregard 1990 Corbieres Rouge, $6: The French country wines are where your values are today. And this is a typical example of a fresh, fruity and very drinkable style that you don't need to ponder. Just drink.

Reserve du President 1989, $6: This tasty little red from the island of Corsica got a national mention as a "best wine value" this year. It deserved it, too. It has plenty of fruit and richness and that zestiness of a country wine.

Deer Valley 1988 Cabernet Sauvignon, $6: This new label comes from Monterey County and has a surprising amount of fresh berry flavors reminiscent of blackberry with a slight peppery undertone. Look for their chardonnay, too.

Riverside Farm 1989 Zinfandel, $6.50: Nothing like a good, old-fashioned zesty zinfandel to go with those autumn casseroles. This is a second label from the Foppiano winery in Sonoma and provides good value year-around.

Ligorio Red 1990, $7: One of this year's little discoveries was this Sicilian red (there's also a white counterpart) that is just delightful - fresh, fruity with considerable earthiness.

Mountain View 1990 Pinot Noir, $7: Finding affordable pinot noirs these days is like looking for a dry blush wine. To discover one at this price that actually has some Carneros-area fruit in it is a real bonus. Light in color, but very plummy and yummy in flavor.

Resplandy 1990 Syrah, $7: A new French label on the market, this comes from the Languedoc in southern France, one of the hot new areas for bargains. It's big-flavored with plenty of blackberry and black pepper.

Stone Creek 1991 Merlot, $7: This velvety and grapey merlot is an all-time favorite. It recently got a "best buy" nod from none other than the Wine Spectator.

Trapiche 1987 Malbec Reserve, $7: Malbec is the red wine king in Argentina and nobody seems to make it any better. It's delightfully fruity, with soft tannins, and smooth in the finish.

Seghesio 1990 Zinfandel, $7.50: Just about everybody's favorite zinfandel these days for its ripe, zesty, zippy style, with lots of spice in the finish. It's from an old family winery in Mendocino where they don't make wimpy zins.

Woodbridge 1989 Cabernet Sauvignon, $8: A second brand for Robert Mondavi, the Woodbridge line consistently offers good wine at decent prices. The cabernet is probably the best because of its richness and depth.

Wheeler 1989 RS Reserve, $8: Here's a real Rhone style red from California with its blend of five different varieties including mourvedre, carignan and petite Sirah. It's perfumey in the nose and blackberry-spice in the mouth.

Jacob's Creek 1990 Merlot, $8: I've written much about the affordable Jacob's Creek Chardonnay and Cabernet from Australia, but their latest is this lively yet smooth merlot. A real surprise for its flavor and depth.

Santino 1988 Zinfandel, $8: In the mood for a good, old-fashioned zesty zinfandel? Produced from Amador County grapes, this has fresh raspberry fruit, black pepper and nice hints of oak.

Los Vascos 1990 Cabernet Sauvignon, $9: This Chilean winery, founded 200 years ago, has enjoyed a resurgence in recent years when Lafite Rothschild of Bordeaux became a part owner. The wine, full-blown and supple, shows its French influence with oak aging.

Antinori 1990 Santa Cristina, $9: With its 90-percent sangiovese grapes and ripe, fragrant style, this could be called a chianti. But don't complain, the price might go up.

A FEW BUBBLIES

Duc de Valmer Sparkling, $7: OK, so it's not really from the Champagne district, but it is French and it is sparkling and it's very crisp and refreshing.

Ste. Chapelle non-vintage Brut, $7.50: Want to pour a Northwest sparkling wine for the out-of-town guests to wow 'em? For the price, you can't do better than this crisp, dry and fruity bubbly.

Chase-Limogere Brut Sparkling, $6: It's from California and the fancier version of Cook's sparkling wines. Say you're entertaining and don't want to mortgage the kids. This is the answer: clean, sparkly and fresh.

Tom Stockley writes a weekly wine column for The Seattle Times and is a Seattle freelance writer.