Freighter Travel: A Slow Boat To Somewhere Out Of The Mainstream

Travel by ocean-going freighter - which slowed to a crawl in the late 1970s and early 1980s because of rising labor costs and heavy use of container ships - is on the rise.

Demand by travelers willing to pay higher fares has resulted in an increasing number of steamship operators making space for passengers. (A few years ago, an around-the-world freighter trip cost the average freighter traveler as little as $25 per day. Today, that's closer to $125 a day, but still less than most luxury liners.)

Many travelers consider time on a working cargo ship to be one of the great adventures of life. But it's not for everyone.

Because cargo is king, few ships move on a precise schedule. A ship's departure may be delayed for days; it may have to wait off-shore instead of going immediately into a berth, and a port of call may be eliminated or a new port added after the voyage is underway. Thus, freighter travelers must have time, patience, flexibility and stamina.

Most freighter travelers are in their 60s or 70s, retired with funds for such travel and the time to pursue it.

But this does not rule out freighter travel for others. A number of companies offer shorter round-trip voyages or operate their ships on such a tight schedule that separate "legs" of voyages can fit into holiday plans.

A quick way to learn what freighter trips are available, and their cost, is to get a recent issue of the "ABC Passenger Shipping Guide" (ABC International, Dunstable, Bedfordshire, England LU5 4HB) from the library.

This is a monthly listing of companies offering passenger transportation by sea except for very short ferry runs or excursion boats. It lists passenger-carrying freighter services by geographic area.

Once you decide on a shipping line or an area of travel, talk with a travel agent who specializes in freighter travel. That person will know, or be able to research, facts such as the registration of the ship and the nationality of its crew and officers (this will determine what language is spoken); location of passenger rooms in relation to the public rooms and dining room (some ships require the use of several staircases and are not equipped with elevators); the availability of laundry facilities and deck chairs, and the location of a "slop chest" where passengers can purchase alcohol, cigarettes and sundry items during the voyage.

There are few traditional "break-bulk" cargo vessels left. Those ships spent several days in port loading all sorts of bales and crates into their holds, leaving the passengers plenty of time to look around.

Today, the freighter traveler's choice of ships likely will be limited to a container ship or a roll-on/ roll-off vessel, both designed to spend as little time in port as possible.

Cabins on most present-day freighters are much larger than comparably priced cabins on cruise liners. Unlike cruise liners, however, passengers cannot always choose their cabin in advance. Some passengers book years in advance; they get the best cabins.

Once you have a reservation, the waiting begins. Outside of a few lines which sail on a set schedule, most freighters sail only when all cargo is aboard. Delays can come from late-arriving cargo, industrial disputes, weather, mechanical problems and other matters. The passenger may have to spend several nights in a motel near the port (at his or her expense) until he is allowed on board.

Even finding the ship can be an adventure; many of the large container terminals are now far from urban areas.

Passenger boarding sometimes is delayed until the final hour. But if there's time, take a quick look at the cabin and galley to see if you should buy anything before sailing. A better grade of toilet paper, facial tissue, special laundry soaps, aspirin and snack items are the things that most passengers usually wish they had brought aboard.

Life at sea on a freighter can be relaxing. The bustle found on luxury cruise ships is lacking and there is usually little or no organized entertainment.

Some of the newer cargo ships now have small swimming pools and gyms which are shared with the ship's crew and/or officers.

Meal times on freighters are set. On many American ships the dinner time sometimes is as early as 4:30 p.m. Food on freighters is normally good, but this depends entirely on the cook.

Safety is emphasized. A lifeboat drill is usually given during the first day at sea. During loading and unloading cargo, the decks and docks can become untidy with grease, cables and cargo rigging.

Passengers often will be asked to surrender passports or travel documents to the captain during the course of the voyage. This allows for smoother immigration procedures at the vessel's various ports-of-call.

In some ports, local political or health problems may make it advisable to remain on board. The ship's agent, usually the first person to board the ship once it ties up, should be able to advise on this and recommend shore-based excursion operators.

The captain or steward will be able to change small amounts of the local currency and advise passengers on local transportation. If you leave the ship in a foreign port, have the ship's name and location written down in a form understandable to a local taxi driver.

Some captains enjoy socializing with passengers, joining them at dinner, and having them on the "bridge" to answer their questions. One Asian freighter line quit carrying passengers because the Chinese captains didn't like making small talk at the supper table. Socializing is not part of the captain's job; be sensitive to this.

Whether on the bridge or down below, it is wise to wear good, rubber-soled shoes. New ships, especially those which have steel decks rather than of wood, are dangerous when there is the least bit of water or oil about.

Dress aboard freighters is usually informal. However, some passengers dress up for one or two dinners, particularly if the captain is hosting a cocktail party or reception. On at least one British line (Geest) it is now customary to dress formally for dinner.

A travel agent or the steamship company's ticketing office will be able to advise in this matter as well as furnish information regarding mail, baggage and tipping. --------------------------------------------------------------- MORE INFORMATION

-- Freighter Travel News is published monthly by the Freighter Travel Club of America, 3524 Harts Lake Rd., Roy, WA 98580. Phone: 1-206-458-4178. It's a newsletter featuring people's reactions to a certain ship or line and day-to-day life at sea. $18 a year.

-- Freighter Space Advisory is published twice monthly by Freighter World Cruises, Inc., said to be the largest agency dedicated to freighter travel. It's $27 a year. Write: 180 S. Lake Ave., Suite 335, Pasadena, CA 91101. Phone: 1-818-449-3106.

J.L. Shaw is a freelance writer specializing in the cruise and shipping industry. He lives in Milwaukee, Ore.