Something To Hoot About: The Dinner Train

Washington wines must travel well. At least that has been my experience lately in some interesting trips about the Northwest as well as the rest of the country.

Perhaps the most dramatic example is the "Wine Train," the Spirit of Washington Dinner Train from Renton to Chateau Ste. Michelle in Woodinville. The regularly scheduled train trip began last week and launched what I believe to be a spectacular attraction in the Northwest for native and tourist alike.

Skirting past views of Lake Washington, the Seattle skyline and the Sammamish River Valley while dining on a nicely served three-course dinner is my idea of a pleasant way to spend an evening this summer. After a 45-minute visit to the grounds of Chateau Ste. Michelle, guests reboard the train for dessert, coffee and a speedy return to the Renton station. The food is done by Gretchen's, Of Course, the catering arm of the Schwartz Brothers restaurants.

The 3 1/2-hour excursion really has a little bit for everyone, including train buffs who will enjoy strolling through some of the historic cars including the City of Seattle dome car and the Cascade built in 1937 for the old Santa Fe Railroad. An added "attraction" was the young man who "mooned" our train on the way out of Renton.

I have almost all praise for the scenic trip, food and wine. Notice I said "almost" because I feel it has not been made clear to the public that the $55 ticket cost does not include any wine. Further, I believe it would be a welcome gesture for the Spirit of Washington folks to include a complimentary glass with dinner. Guests could then order additional wine off the short, but well-selected, wine list.

The list, by the way, includes all Washington wines, by the bottle or (in some cases by the half bottle or glass). Prices seemed reasonable including a bottle of Barnard Griffin Fume Blanc for $13.75 and a $15 bottle of chardonnay made by Hogue Cellars for the Schwartz Brothers restaurants. There are also a few Northwest microbrewery selections and several nonalcoholic drinks including the great Thomas Kemper root beer.

Reservations are made by calling the Spirit of Washington office at 876-7245.

OUR WINES TRAVEL WELL

But the wines on the Spirit of Washington are not the only Northwest bottlings that are traveling well these days. Stewart Vineyards 1988 Cabernet Sauvignon apparently made it to San Diego just fine recently. It not only received a gold medal in the national judging there but was named "best of category" in one of the most competitive portions of the competition.

Here's another example: While poking around a wine shop in the Soho district of New York City recently I ran across a number of bottles of the Cavatappi Maddalena. Now, it isn't unusual to find large displays of Northwest wines in any city of the country today. But the Cavatappi, a red wine made by Peter Dow of Cafe Juanita Restaurant from exactly 11 rows of nebbiolo grapes in the Yakima Valley, isn't exactly mainstream. But it proves how extensive Washington wine has penetrated the country.

I have also spotted other Washington wines on some new restaurant lists lately in San Francisco, Los Angeles and on airlines flying everywhere.

Wine by Tom Stockley appears Wednesday in the Food section of The Times. --------------------------------------------------------------- Tip of the week

Readers know that I have often recommended the Le Sable Chardonnay, a light but nicely made wine from Yugoslavia as a top bargain. Now it's lower than I've ever seen it, at Washington State Liquor Stores in May for (better sit down) $3.79!