Chianti's High Quality Belies Its Image

There is probably no other wine so closely associated with Italy than chianti.

There is also probably no other Italian wine so misunderstood. In the past, Americans (through no fault of their own) have tended to think of it as a cheap, rather coarse style of wine that one sloshed down with pasta. It often came in those straw-covered bottles that served better as candle holders than anything else.

But the image of chianti, through more strict regulations, improved winemaking techniques and simply better wines being shipped here, has been elevated in recent years. It may be one of the few examples in wine where the quality improved tremendously while the price remained a bargain.

At Vinitaly this month, the major trade show staged each April in Verona, the Tuscany pavilion was proudly showing off the latest vintages of more chiantis than you could shake a wine glass at. The emphasis was on the 1988s, '89s and even 90s. All were good to exceptional vintages, where warm and balmy summer weather coaxed the best from the grapes. The risveras (the special older vintages), are less trustworthy because '86 and '87 (although not bad) were lesser in quality. Consequently, my advice is to buy the less expensive chiantis and chianti classicos from recent years without any doubt. Trust in well-known producers and the '88 to '90 vintages and you can't go wrong.

Here are some than I can highly recommend:

Frescobaldi 1990 Chianti Classico, $7: The Italians are comparing the '89 and '90 vintages to the great '85. They may be right. Even less expensive chaintis like this one are aromatic in the bouquet, full and fruity on the palate and altogether a pleasure to drink.

Rocca Delle Macie Chianto Classico '89, $8: You could tell this was a favorite of consumers by the crowds filling the booth at the Verona show. Always a winner, the '89 has a great nose, beautiful berry fruit on the palate and a lingering aftertaste.

Niccolini 1990 Chianti, $7: Niccolini is actually a negociant wine (a wine buyer who creates his own label). But the product is made at a well known winery in Tuscany and, although not even a classico designation, is a good buy. Again, it is an example of trusting a great vintage like '90.

Ruffino 1988 Aziano Chianti Classico, $11: I went to Italy already a fan of this wine as I had opened a bottle just prior to leaving. A sip or two at Vinitaly confirmed my belief. It is a rich, hearty but balanced chianti that is worthy of a great steak off the grill.

Il Poggiolo 1990 Chianti, $7: Francesco Bonfio, proprietor of this tiny winery near Siena, was in Seattle just recently. I missed him and met him in Italy instead, where we sipped his very fine chianti from the great '90 vintage. Light in style but fragrant and brimming with berries, it is the best he's made in a regular bottling.

Wine by Tom Stockley appears Wednesday in the Food section of The Times. --------------------------------------------------------------- Tip of the week

I know this is unfair giving you an April special price tip this late in the month. So, to make up here are two from Washington Hills. The superior 1991 Semillon-Sauvignon is still on a reduced price of $6 through tomorrow. But if you miss out, don't worry. The Washington Hills 1990 Dry Chenin Blanc (a wine I honestly thought was a chardonnay at first) goes on special during May for $4.50.