Mexico -- Ixtapa And Zihuatanejo Blend New And Old Ways

Ixtapa and Zihuatanejo, nestled between the sea and Mexico's Sierra Madre Mountains,-offer best the combination of an ultramodern resort and a rustic village.

Ixtapa is the first-class resort, with high-rise hotels, an internationally known golf course and chic shopping. Zihuatanejo (say Zee-whah-tah-NAY-ho; called Zihua by locals), just a 20-minute drive from touristy Ixtapa, has managed to retain its "old Mexico" charm, with street vendors and tiny cafes serving up cold Coronas.

Both have gorgeous sunsets over the Pacific Ocean and a total of 16 beaches between them. The combination of the two towns lets visitors explore relatively unspoiled surroundings while having the comfort of luxury hotels.

We chose the Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo area for our fall honeymoon. We were happy with our choice.

Ixtapa was designed about 15 years ago by the Mexican government, which was looking for a Pacific-side beach resort as a counterpart to its Cancun development in the Caribbean. It hasn't grown to the popularity of Cancun (there are only about 10 hotels), so you won't find yourself stepping over bodies on the beach.

Ixtapa's American-style amenities are presented in a lavish country-club atmosphere. At hotels that line the beach there are swimming pools with bridges and waterfalls; a Robert Trent Jones-designed 18-hole golf course; restaurants that specialize in everything from authentic Mexican dishes to French gourmet cuisine; and boutiques selling handmade Mexican serapes alongside merchandise from Ralph Lauren.

Ixtapa has no airport, so you'll fly into a tiny airport surrounded by palm trees on the outskirts of Zihuatanejo. It was closing for the night when we arrived at 10 p.m.

If your travel agent hasn't arranged ground transportation, you'll have to get a taxi from the airport to your hotel in Ixtapa. (Accommodations, by the way, also are available in Zihuatanejo, albeit more primitive.)

Taxis in and around Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo are a bargain. Don't pay more than 35,000 pesos (about $12.50) for a taxi from the airport to Ixtapa, but do expect to pay more later in the evening. (It cost us $17 to our hotel.)

We stayed at the Westin Camino Real Hotel - now called the Westin Resort - in Ixtapa.

Rates at the Westin Resort currently range from $301 to $660 per person for seven nights, depending on season and room choice. Ixtapa's busy season, with its highest hotel rates, runs through the winter. Rates drop later this month. Packages that combine air fare with hotel could result in better rates.

At the Westin, ceiling fans circle over king-size beds. The rooms, with terra-cotta floors, include everything from clotheslines for wet swimsuits to mini-bars.

On the Westin's grounds, we discovered four swimming pools that flowed into each other through a series of waterfalls and fountains; four restaurants; a gym; tennis courts; and a private beach dotted with bamboo umbrellas.

If you choose to swim at the beach, be careful. The Pacific here, with a nasty undertow and big waves, is often rough; a color-coded flag system warns swimmers when it's safe. You may prefer to lounge by the pool. If you love ocean swimming, waters are calmer at beaches in Zihuatanejo.

Because it's in the mountains, the Westin is segregated from other Ixtapa hotels - a feature we considered a plus. But staying there means having to take a taxi everywhere. We didn't consider that a problem because the ride into the main area of Ixtapa costs only 5,000 pesos - about $1.50.

If you prefer the convenience of walking out of your hotel to the nearest restaurant or shop, you may want to stay at one of the hotels along palm-tree-lined Ixtapa Boulevard such as the Sheraton and Krystal hotels. (The Sheraton's per-person rates for seven nights range from $301 to $499, depending on season and room; the Krystal ranges from $333 to $604.) Also liked by people we met were the Omni Ixtapa and the Stouffer Presidente Ixtapa.

If you're looking for night life, try Christine, the Krystal Hotel's disco. The cover charge isn't cheap - about 30,000 pesos ($10) per person - although some nights offer two-for-one deals. Doors don't open until 10 p.m.

Tourists and locals dance to the thumping beat of INXS, Madonna and the hottest Mexican musicians, while music videos flash on and off three huge screens.

It made for a fun evening, but if you love hitting a different nightclub each and every night, Ixtapa isn't for you. Christine is about the only disco game in town.

Like shopping? Ixtapa stores are filled with Gucci, Polo and Dior - and more silver jewelry than you can imagine. Bargain with shop owners for hand-carved wooden masks, alabaster chess sets or hand-embroidered dresses. But if you're looking for a shopping bargain, save your money for Zihuatanejo - you'll probably find a better deal there.

Restaurants range from classy to simple. In Ixtapa, we splurged and ate at Bogart's, near the Krystal. You'll easily spend $100 for two people. It's called Bogart's because the restaurant looks like a set from "Casablanca," with rattan chairs and turban-wearing waiters.

A musician at a white baby grand played "As Time Goes By" (of course), while our chef cooked flaming creations tableside.

While Ixtapa shows off with classy hotels, fancy restaurants and top-of-the-line shopping, you'll get a taste of less touristy Mexico by hopping a cab (for about $5) for the 20-minute ride to Zihuatanejo.

Zihuatanejo ("Land of Women" in the ancient language of the Tarascan Indians who lived there) remains mostly a fishing village.

"Zihua's" cobblestone streets are filled with specialty shops. Stop by the fresh food market and watch local women buying mangos.

Drop in one of many small mom-and-pop grocery stores and pick up anything from salsa chips to hair tonic. You'll find Kahlua and tequila in these stores at one-quarter the price you'd pay for them at liquor stores in the U.S.

Zihua also is known for its beaches; most are calmer than what you'll find in the hotel district of Ixtapa. The best beach for swimming is said to be Playa la Ropa, while Playa las Gatas is filled with coral reefs for scuba divers and snorkelers. Horseback riding is offered at la Ropa and on Playa Linda; parasailing at Playa Palmar.

There also are plenty of short excursions from the piers in Zihua. Hotels can arrange trips.

For about $2, leave Playa Quieta for a 10-minute boat ride to Ixtapa Island. One side of the island has calm waters for swimming, while the other has coral for snorkeling.

Lilly's and El Marlin, two thatched-roof restaurants on the island, play traditional Mexican music and serve fresh seafood. Before leaving, take a ride on a banana boat or rent a water bike.

You also can leave Zihua piers for day-long excursions on a sailboat, or to take in deep-sea fishing for marlin and sailfish.

If you're looking for a little sand, plenty of sun and a few nice restaurants, the Ixtapa/Zihua area fits the bill.

But hurry. It's becoming more popular each year. A new 430-acre marina, with room for 600 boats, is under construction and is expected to bring in more tourists. --------------------------------------------------------------- TIPS FOR VISITORS TO IXTAPA

If you're planning a trip to Ixtapa-Zihuatanejo, here's some information that might help:

-- Weather: Summer temperatures are in the 90s; otherwise in the high 70s and low 80s. The rainy season runs from late June to mid-September.

-- What to wear: Ixtapa and Zihua are casual. Shorts, sandals and T-shirts are seen in almost any restaurant or shop.

-- Getting around: Taxis in and around the resort are plentiful and cheap. Taxi fare between Ixtapa and Zihua is about $5; more late at night. Take "official" taxis; they're white and almost always less expensive than those run by individual owners. Be cautious about public buses; we heard talk of pickpockets.

-- Money: You'll get the best exchange rate at a bank, but hotels are more convenient.

-- Drinking the water: Most luxury hotels in Ixtapa provide water purification systems that they say allows you to drink water from the tap. Others provide bottled water.

In Zihua, be cautious. Avoid ice cubes in soft drinks, as well as fruits and vegetables that may have been washed in village water.

-- For more information: Travel agents can provide information on hotels and air-hotel packages. For general information, contact: Mexican Government Tourism Office, 10100 Santa Monica Blvd., Suite 224, Los Angeles, CA 90067. Phone 1-213-203-8191.

-- Restaurants: These are restaurants that we tried and liked, or that were recommended.

In Ixtapa:

-- Carlos 'N Charlie's: Next to Hotel Posada Real. Open-air dancing on the beach. Party atmosphere with sangria and tequila specialties.

-- Da Baffone: La Puerta Center. Italian cuisine; pasta cooked tableside.

-- Bogart's: Near Krystal Hotel. Romantic "Casablanca" ambiance. Excellent food, service and atmosphere. Expensive - $100 for two.

In Zihuatanejo:

-- La Mesa del Capitan: Nicolas Bravo 18. Seafood and steaks.

-- La Perla: Overlooks Playa la Ropa beach. Specializes in fresh seafood. Inexpensive.

-- La Bocana: Family restaurant popular with locals. Brenda Jackson