Lummi Island: Forgotten Idyll Among The San Juans

They call Lummi "the forgotten San Juan Island" and most of the fans of the little-known island would rather it stayed that way.

Some have suggested bodily harm if I dare to write about it.

But, if you promise not to tell, here's the story.

I learned about Lummi Island four years ago at a University of Washington Communications School reunion.

Jerry McRorie, one of the alums, said he'd found a job in Ferndale and had settled on nearby Lummi Island. He had also bought the island's general store (the Islander) and was discovering the joys of owning a business.

"I made a profit just one year in the last nine," he said, cheerfully.

But despite the headaches of being a proprietor, he had nothing but rave reviews for the island. Among the selling points: Lummi is as beautiful as it is unknown.

So far, he said, the peanut-shaped island has escaped the rush to development that has scarred some of its better-known neighbors among the San Juans. It has about 600 year round residents, double that on a nice summer weekend.

There's one church, one cafe, a post office and a refurbished hall where locals sometimes go dancing on Saturday nights. But there's no movie theater, no tavern, no inns, no motels and no pretensions.

The best part about Lummi is that compared to most of the San Juans, it's a cinch to reach.

"All you do is turn off I-5 just past Bellingham, drive 10 miles to the ferry landing at Gooseberry Point," McRorie explained. "The ferry leaves hourly and - if there's an overload - the boat comes right back for you."

Not long after McRorie let the cat out of the bag, I loaded my mountain bike on the back of the car and set off to see for myself.

I'd made a reservation (absolutely essential) at one of the island's bed and breakfasts. (Unless you have friends on the island you can bunk with, that's about the only way to overnight on the island. There are public beaches, but overnight camping is prohibited.)

The drive from Seattle takes about two hours. The last few miles slice through the Lummi Indian Reservation. In fact, when you reach the ferry landing, you'll queue up for the county-run ferry right next to the Lummi tribe's popular new gambling casino. (It's well worth a peek inside, whether or not you're a high roller. You can linger over a cup of coffee while waiting for once-an-hour ferry run.)

The ferry ride to the island - which, despite the name, is not part of the Lummi reservation - crosses Hale Passage and takes less than 10 minutes. The first-time visitor barely has time to admire the picturesque views of the island, with its densely wooded areas and rock-rimmed beaches.

On my first visit, I checked into the Willows Inn, which has been run as a seaside retreat since the 1930s. It's on a bluff, 100 feet above a private beach, looking west across the sea lanes at other islands in the San Juan archipelago.

The rooms had lacy linens and Sunday-best antiques. I felt as if I'd stepped into a time machine and emerged about 1912. Only the functional plumbing gave it away.

Victoria Taft Flynn runs the Willows, which once was owned by her grandparents. She delivers hot soda bread and coffee to each room in the morning. Later she serves a gourmet breakfast in a airy dining room that looks out across the flower-bedecked gardens at the seascape.

After dining on the sumptuous Willows breakfast, I could easily have dozed in the sunshine on the veranda or stroll out to the carefully-tended rose garden. But, instead, I climbed onto my mountain bike to explore the island.

One of my early discoveries was that Lummi Island has two terrains. The northern half is relatively flat. The southern half has valleys, foothills and a wooded peak that, for size and stature, is a close rival to Mount Constitution on nearby Orcas Island.

A paved two-lane road makes a circle of about six miles on the flat half of the island. Most bicyclists could do it in an hour. But, for the first-time explorer, it takes a lot longer.

That first morning, I stopped at beaches along the way and explored the byways, stretching the ride into a morning-long excursion. I stopped at the Islander Store near the ferry dock to buy a map, have a cup of coffee and chat with some of the islanders.

Needless to say, I was charmed by Lummi Island. It wasn't long before I was back, anxious to try another B&B, West Shore Farm, also on the northern tip of the island. (Little did I know that it would be the first of many stays at that same user-friendly B&B.)

As the name implies, West Shore Farm is a small farm, run by Carl and Polly Hanson. Carl took early retirement from Boeing to build his dream house; Polly's the librarian for the Lummi Indian College on the mainland, east of the Gooseberry Point settlement.

The house is a cozy octagonal structure with wood-paneled interior and a sweeping northwest view toward British Columbia's Georgia Strait. The Hansons have two ground-level guest rooms, each with its own bathroom, opening off an area stocked with books, games, maps and other publications.

They serve a family-style breakfast at a large round table in the view-dominated dining room. With advanced notice, they will rustle up a gourmet dinner as well. Menus often include vegetables from their garden, homemade bread and the "catch of the day."

On that trip, I ventured farther south to the mountainous end of the island, exploring the more rugged beaches and headlands.

During the summer, the reef-fish netters work just off shore on Legoe Bay on the eastern shore. It's fascinating to see them arrayed in flat-bottomed craft, each fitted with a ladder-like structure that allows them to observe the schools of fish. A good view of the operation is from the tiny, beachfront Marina Cafe where they serve fresh fish and chips and homemade pie.

Lummi Island is a place where one can enjoy such simple pleasures. One afternoon I set out in the sunshine. A sudden storm blew up and, instead of bucking the winds, I huddled against a deserted building, waiting for the squall to blow over. Meanwhile, I watched a bald eagle glide overhead, riding the galloping wind currents and patrolling the roiled waters along the shoreline.

Another time, on a glorious sunny afternoon that would have been too hot if it hadn't been for an on-shore breeze, I walked along the beach, looking for the agates prized by collectors. I found several small, but sparkling, chips.

Of all the places I have known, the islands in the San Juans offer the most ideal spots for spiritual recharging. And, of all the islands that I've visited, I don't know of one that pleases me more than Lummi, the forgotten one.

But please don't tell anyone I said so.

IF YOU GO

-- Getting there: After leaving I-5 at Exit 260, head West on Slater Road to Haxton Way, follow the signs to "Lummi Island" and "Lummi Casino." It's 10 miles to the ferry, operated by Whatcom County. The ferry leaves hourly at 10 minutes past the hour. Round-trip fare is $3 for car and driver, $1 for passengers.

-- Accommodations: Lodgings Lummi Island are limited to B&Bs, but there are several choices, including:

-- Deer Creek Farm, a 72-acre orchard and farm located in the center of the island, is operated by Dana Kershner, 1-206-758-2678. Rates for the two large rooms are $90 and $95 per night.

-- Loganita, "a villa by the sea," has six rooms and one cottage. Hosts are Glen and Ann Gossage, 1-206-758-2651. There's a hot tub and baby grand piano, fireplaces in some rooms. Rates run $75 to $165 per night. Weekly rates can be arranged.

-- Otters' Nest on the east side of the island is open on weekends only. Hosts are Russell and Carla Tolsma, 1-206-758-2667. Rates are $60.

-- West Shore Farm has two rooms with private baths and sauna. Hosts are Carl and Polly Hanson, 1-206-758-2600. Rates are $60 for single occupancy; $70 for double.

-- The Willows, which has a sunset exposure, is operated by Victoria Taft Flynn, 758-2620. The two-bedroom guest house, which accommodates two couples, runs $275 a night; the honeymoon cottage, $135, and the inn's four guest rooms, $95.

-- Food: Lummi Island's restaurants won't require a staff of reviewers. There are two:

- Marina Cafe at Legoe Bay is open Friday-Sunday. The food is plain, but usually well-prepared. On a recent visit, I had the "breakfast special," one egg, one slice of bacon and a large light pancake. Not bad for $1.99.

- Beach Store Cafe, due north of the ferry landing, serves breakfast and lunch, but won't open for the season until May 11. It's well worth a visit. The baked goods are homemade; the specials, outstanding. I treasure memories of a brunch plate heaped with fresh cracked crab and black beans.

Other options:

The gambling casino at Gooseberry Point has food service. If you're staying on the island, take the ferry ($1 round-trip for foot passengers).

Some B&Bs serve dinner by arrangement or you can drive to nearby Bellingham, about 20 minutes away.

Jean Godden's column appears Sunday, Monday, Wednesday and Friday in the Northwest section of The Times.