Try A Bit Of Bubbly At A Refreshing Price

It's that sparkling time of year again. In other words, time for a bit of the bubbly.

In keeping with my tradition started last year, we'll devote two columns to the holiday sparklers - budget bubblies this week and fancier, up-scale bottlings next. Today's suggestions are all under $10, some of them surprisingly inexpensive.

Fingers tightly clasped around the purse strings? Let's go.

Freixenet Carta Nevada Brut, $6: Everyone knows Freixenet's black bottle labeled Cordon Negro. Here's its first cousin that is even more affordable. Coming in a frosty-looking bottle, it will impress you with its toasty nose, full-bodied and pear-like flavors.

Duc de Valmer, $6: On special for the holidays, this has become my "house sparkling wine." Made in France (not Champagne), it is light but very refreshing with hints of lemon and pear. Tastes much more expensive than it is.

Ste. Chapelle Brut, $6.50: If you remember the Idaho winery's Sparkling Chardonnay of previous years, this is the new version of that sparkler with more pinot noir added. The new blend has given the wine more complexity and some richness.

Chase Limogere Brut, $6.50: Hard to beat for the price. The California-produced bubbly is off-dry with a toasty nose and some pleasing complexity. The Westin Hotel folks have chosen it two years running for their hotel-wide wine list.

Paul Cheneau Blanc de Blanc, $7.50: My choice for one of the best values this holiday. Despite the French-sounding name, it's Spanish and bottle-fermented. Unlike a lot of its counterparts, it has spent several years on the yeast and has picked up a yeasty fragrance along with good bubbles and a smooth texture.

Domaine St. Michelle Champagne Brut, $9: Here's the wine that has become the all-time bestseller from the Northwest. And, no wonder. It's fresh, frothy, flavorful and affordable (especially this month at that special price). Mostly chardonnay, it can be taken very seriously.

Aria Brut, $9: Segura Viudas is a sparkler that frequently gets mentioned in my "best value" category. However, this year I am impressed with the Spanish winery's slightly more expensive but high quality sparkler (separately labeled just as Aria). It has fresh flavors of pineapple and apple and is very well balanced. Handsome bottle, too.

Wine by Tom Stockley appears Wednesday in the Food section of The Times.

--------------- Tip of the week ---------------

Looking for a stocking stuffer? Grab a copy of a nifty little paperback book called "Pick the Right Wine," a guide to choosing the perfect wines with foods. It's by local wine merchant Dan McCarthy, who has made a real study of matching food and wine in a no-nonsense, user-friendly style. It's $10 and published by Doubleday in New York.