Enjoying Peace And Quiet - And Giraffes - On The Island Of Molokai
KAUNAKAKAI, Molokai, Hawaii - There's only one left now.
Time was, there was peace and lots of quiet on all the Hawaiian islands. But that was then, and this is now. Molokai is the last one left.
Sure, there are spots where Hawaii is like it used to be, back before folks started building $200-a-night mega-resorts, with everything from lake-size swimming pools to several million bucks' worth of artworks stashed around the joint.
The best example of the calm and quiet old days was probably Lanai, the Pineapple Island, which lies just across the Kalohi Channel from Molokai.
For most of this century, Lanai was the home of the Dole pineapple groves. Now, the pineapple groves have been plowed under for several $300- to $400-a-night resorts, and they want to call it the Resort Island.
That leaves Molokai. On the whole, it remains what it has traditionally been: a farming island.
Molokai is at once one of the most beautiful and also one of the least attractive of the islands. The north coast has some of the most dramatic cliffs in the world - in fact, the highest sea cliffs in the world, rising about 4,000 feet from the ocean. It also has the Kalaupapa Peninsula, the famous leper colony, now a national historic park.
The east is a series of wide spots in the road with volcanic slopes rising to the middle of the island, but it is the site of the Halawa Valley. But on the west, the island is a near-desert, and to the south, where most of the population is, the beaches are mostly muddy and the land is basically flat.
So why go there at all?
Because it is Molokai. Because it is quiet. Because you can hike and lie in the sun or play golf - without being assaulted by a million tourists. There are places to hike up into the mountains, places where you can swim in a pool formed by a towering waterfall, and places where you can let giraffes nibble food off your stomach.
One of the major targets for many visitors who plan to stay on the island is the Kaluakoi Hotel and Golf Club, a Colony resort set on the island's west coast.
The Kaluakoi is a self-contained resort and has various room-meal plans, raning from a basic double around $100. (Information: 1-800-777-1700.)
The big city on Molokai is Kaunakakai, about 25 miles east of the resort - it's normally just called "K'Kai." It's pretty small-town stuff, with a few restaurants and the feel of a place where time stopped about 1950.
Near town are a couple of smaller hotel complexes, but as noted, the beaches on the south side of the island are pretty poor. The prices are good, however, and you are close to town.
The Hotel Molokai houses its guests in "Polynesian-style bungalows," with thatched roofs, private baths and lanais. Prices start around $55 a night double. Down the road a piece is the Pau Hana Inn, with doubles starting around $45. (Information for both: 1-800-423-6656.)
Nature buffs will immediately head to the Halawa Valley at the east end of the island and climb into the mountains past two big waterfalls along lush trails filled with birds and green things.
Take Highway 450 (the coast road) from K'Kai to the end of the road, about 30 miles. There's a security lot, run by a nice old guy who makes you sign a damage waiver and charges you $5 to park.
The hike up to the first of the Moaula Falls (250 feet high) takes about an hour; another 45 minutes gets you to the upper falls. It's the prettiest accessible scene on the island, and if it's hot, you can soak in the cold pool at the base of the lower falls. Be sure to ask about the trail before you go; it crosses several small creeks that can be fairly mean after a rainstorm.
Another popular draw on the island is the Molokai Ranch Wildlife Park, populated by small herds of African wildlife, including Barbary sheep, eland, blackbuck, kudu and oryx.
One of the stops is a giraffe area, where guides will take volunteers, lie them down on a bench, pour giraffe chow all over their stomachs and watch while the beasts gently use their huge tongues to snack. The tours are started from the Kaluakoi resort and are $25 for adults and $10 for children under 10. (Information: 1-808-552-2767.)
If you like your wildlife less structured, make arrangements to go to the Kamakou Preserve, run by the Nature Conservancy of Hawaii in the mountains northeast of K'Kai. Inside the preserve's 2,800 acres are 250 types of Hawaiian plants, including some rare species that grow only on Molokai. It's basically a rain forest that supplies an estimated 60 percent of the island's fresh water.
You can take a guided four-wheel-drive tour, which can be booked through the Kaluakoi resort or by contacting Alex Tour in K'Kai, which runs a five-hour trip to the preserve for $30 a person.
Warning: it's very cold at the park, so dress accordingly. (Information: Nature Conservancy of Hawaii, 1116 Smith St., Suite 201, Honolulu 96817, phone 1-808-537-4508; Kamakou Preserve, P.O. Box 40, Kualapuu, Molokai, Hawaii 96757, phone 1-808-567-6680; or Alex Tour & Taxi, P.O. Box 747, Kaunakakai 96748, phone 1-808-553-3369.)
As for the famous mule rides to Kalaupapa, they start on the north coast and go down a steep trail to the leper colony, where you have lunch, take a tour, then hop aboard your steed for the trip back up. The trip costs $93.60 per person and takes about eight hours, starting at 8:30 a.m. There is an age restriction (16 and over), and a weight restriction (under 225 pounds). Information: 1-800-843-5978.
IF YOU GO: -- Getting there - There are no direct flights from the mainland to Molokai. However, Hawaiian Airlines, 1-800-367-5320, and Aloha Island Air, 1-800-367-5250, fly to Molokai from the other Hawaiian islands. Air fare from Honolulu is about $125 round trip.
The Maui Princess ferry makes daily excursions to Molokai from Lahaina Harbor on Maui. The trip takes about an hour and 45 minutes. Call 1-808-661-8397 for current schedules and prices.
-- Information: Destination Molokai Association, P.O. Box 960, Kaunakakai, HI 96748; phone 1-808-553-3876, or in Honolulu, 1-808-944-0888; also 1-800-367-4753.