Retro Mania -- From Victoriana To Richie Cunningham, Vintage Vogue Commands Attention

During my high school years, when popularity was measured by lipstick cliques and brawn without brains, you always knew who really didn't fit the bill when it came to "cool."

Certainly prom queens, jock heads, class politicians, megabrainiacs and those other so-called "popular" kids didn't.

They lacked style, class, panache. How could you tell? By the way they dressed, of course. In cliques, everyone looked the same.

Maybe that's why I dressed the way I did: to avoid looking like them. Conformity was not my bag.

Already dubbed weird because of my affection for lingerie as outerwear, the vintage-retro look appealed to me as something different. My poodle skirt and bustier number somehow always managed to stand out on a campus of neon miniskirts, plastic pumps, knee-torn Levi's and tie-dye T's.

Enormously pleased with the attention and trademark look I had developed in school, I combed Pasadena, Santa Monica and Melrose Avenue in Hollywood for beaded skirts, snoods and rhinestones, wool gabardine suits, antique lace, Richie Cunningham cardigans, Al Capone fedoras, white kid gloves, Victorian bloomers and Mae West-style feather hats.

While I couldn't afford the authentic jewelry and museum-showcase ball gowns, I could often bargain down the moderately priced and more wearable items to half price.

I once bought a flapper's fringe skimp for $18 to wear to a winter formal. It was originally marked $45.

While I continued to wear lace teddies with 1950s crinoline and fishnet stockings to history and algebra classes, fewer eyebrows raised. My parents and teachers didn't seem to mind, as long as I wasn't showing up to class naked.

In college, it was more or less the same. But I noticed less of an effort made by students to make any kind of fashion statement.

Minus the anorexic Cosmo look sought by sorority and non-sorority bimbos, the surfer dude idiocy prevalent among Southern California boys, the deadhead-hippie throwback garb popular on even the most conservative campuses, and the somber funeral attire from the industrial Depeche Mode ("Depressed Mood") ilk . . . there wasn't much in the way of fashion.

Still I donned men's satin boxers, garters (visibly hanging from under the shorts), a Charlie Chaplin derby and saddle shoes for class, while my roommate wore the same pair of jeans and a different color T-shirt every day.

Today, I still love a classic vintage look. But somehow I don't think my vintage style would suit an office. Coming to work dressed in a Kate Hepburn pantsuit a la Madonna might be too much.

Don't get me wrong, I don't condemn people who don't do retro. I don't think people go out of their way to look boring. I don't think "cool" is measured by the clothes people wear.

There's just something about old clothes that makes people stop and look. And it's more than just nostalgia. There's an unmistakable grace about the fitted wool suits worn by Hollywood actresses from the '40s and a sharpness about the straw hats, bow ties and suspenders worn by dandies straight out of F. Scott Fitzgerald's "The Great Gatsby."

I still wear cashmere, Ingrid Bergman jackets, silk teddies and back-seam stockings. But the combination look of vintage and lingerie will have to wait for another time.

Until then, I'll just have to be content shopping.

Thankfully, Seattle has an admirable selection of vintage clothing stores to visit. And unlike Los Angeles vintage stores, Seattle's have affordable clothing, much of which is in excellent condition.

Many of the shops are located in clusters near Pioneer Square, the Pike Place Market and the Fremont District, so it's easy to make a day of just vintage shopping. There's always the local Goodwill and Salvation Army stores but be prepared to hunt and peck; really vogue vintage is harder to find here.

Forget the Westlake Center, Alderwood Mall and Bellevue Square; instead, browse through the past. You might be surprised at what you find.

Here's what I found on a recent vintage shopping trip through some of the local shops:

Madame & Company

117 Yesler Way

621-1728

Hours: noon to 6 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday

Stepping into Madame Carol Winship's store is like walking into a Victorian dream. Silk flowers and antique hats adorn the back of the room. You can sift through drawers full of buttons, lace and pearls to add to a new jacket, purse or hat.

A serious vintage store that sells high-quality vintage fashions from the Northwest, Madame & Company carries a rare monkey-fur jacket from the '30s, a 1900s petticoat camisole with Irish crochet, antique lace collars, wraps, lingerie and Victorian wedding gowns.

With a clientele from all over the world, Madame takes pride in cleaning and restoring every item of clothing close to its original condition with authentic antique pieces. The collectible items date from the late 19th century to the '40s.

Tootsie's

609 Second Ave.

682-0807

Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. Monday-Friday; 1 p.m. to 6 p.m. Saturday-Sunday

One of the more colorful shops you'll find, Tootsie's features clothing from the '40s, '50s and '60s. Hollywood set and costume folks loved the decor of Sandra Gengler's store so much, they decided to use it in the new Jeff Bridges' film, "American Heart."

Inside, there's an array of black rayon velvet jackets for under $20. Used Levi 501s sell for under $10 with condition tags letting you know where the holes are. Cashmere sweater collectors will be happy to find a good assortment of the popular '50s sweater in the $18 range. I spotted one vanilla cashmere cardigan with a mink collar and double lace chiffon lining that had no tears or stains. Buy more than one item and Gengler might give you a discount.

Isadora's

1915 First Ave.

441-7711

Hours: 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday-Friday; 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Saturday; noon to 5 p.m. Sunday

Named after modern American dancer Isadora Duncan, this classy shop is home to the hardcore vintage-clothes junkie. It boasts museum-showcase pieces and rare vintage fashion from France and Italy.

Owner Laura Dalesandro buys only top-of-the-line vintage fashion for her shop, then restores each piece to its original condition before putting it on the rack. Bring your checkbook. With all the care that goes into selecting and restoring the clothes, expect some fairly expensive stuff.

Like most of Isadora's loyal clientele, high prices don't keep Hollywood costume designers and local theater people from shopping here for classic period pieces. Don't miss the snazzy tuxedos for $125 and a good selection of alligator shoes and Jacquard ties.

Old Duffers Stuff Vintage

Clothing & Collectibles

1519 First Ave., 621-1141

Hours: noon to 5 p.m. every day

Tucked away in a corner, this tiny shop is easily missed until you step inside. Suit up for the winter in 100 percent wool coats from the '60s for $22. For a dainty approach, try a Victorian lace wrap for $37.50.

This shop is not big on organization, so expect to do some digging. The dress rack has some real bargains in pretty full-skirt formals from the '50s if you're willing to look.

Retro Viva

1511 First Ave.

624-2529

Hours: 10:30 to 6 p.m. Monday-Saturday; noon to 5 p.m. Sunday

This funky store fits right in with the First Avenue cafes and boutiques. It sells half real vintage clothes and half new clothes with a vintage look. All the new items are works from local fashion designers.

Used boots starting at $13 adorn the window sill along with wild sequined sandals in black and gold. The front of the store has newer, more trendy Levi's jackets and tie-dyed pantaloons for $43. There're plenty of psychedelic leggings for $23 and rayon bell-bottom flares for $30, but alas, these aren't vintage.

At the back of the store, you'll find older vintage basics: men's cotton Hawaiian shirts, pillbox purses and gold lame pants. Be sure to check out the jewelry display cases. Antique broaches, earrings and rhinestones sell for modest prices.

Grandma's Attic,

3rd level bayside

Pike Place Market

682-9281

Hours: 10:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday-Friday; 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Saturday; 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Sunday

Aptly named, this little shop has a whimsical display of antique knickknacks and Mexican jackets from the '50s in the window - just a taste of the amusing collectibles you might find inside.

I found a midnight blue faille silk dress from the late '40s and a quilted full-circle skirt from the '50s to die for. A variety of men's tweed overcoats and black trench coats fill half a store wall. A '50s reversible satin jacket with an embroidered back sells in Japan for $250 and here for $50.

The store also sells baroque pearls, Austrian crystals and lots of fine jewelry made by Miriam Haskell and Robert deMario.

Fritzi Ritz

3425 Fremont Place N.

633-0929

Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. Monday-Friday; noon to 5:30 p.m. Saturday; noon to 5 p.m. Sunday

Leopard skin skirts, bowling shirts and shoes, a Ken Hopkins hippie vest, Annette Funicello sundresses and Canada flight suits fill this corner shop. Fritzi Ritz offers mostly clothing from the '40s, '50s and '60s, but there are a few pieces dating to the early 1900s.

Felt poodle skirts are $30 a pop. A pair of Aztec motif boxers go for $12. Tweed overcoats are $60 and men's patent leather oxfords sell for $25.

Look up, the best clothing is on the walls.

Guess Where

615 N. 35th St.

547-3793

Hours: noon to 6 p.m. every day

A chic vintage-clothing store for men that has an excellent and large selection of tuxedos starting at $85. If you've always wanted to own a tweed or a wool coat, here's a store that allows you to get both at one time. Prices are a steal, ranging between $18 and $60.

You could try a daring romantic clothes makeover with a Humphrey Bogart fedora, crisp white cotton shirt and double-breasted jacket.

Fremont Antique Mall

3419 Fremont Place N.

548-9140

Hours: 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. every day

Down the stairs from the sidewalk and into the basement of the Fremont building, antique love seats and easy chairs greet you at the bottom. A huge room of vintage collectibles including old knickknacks, ashtrays, lazy susans, appliances, books and records line the shelves.

There's not much clothing, but a few pokes between the racks might land you a '50s bathing suit or snakeskin coat. The mall sells antique items from local vintage-store owners and consignment pieces from people who have antiques but aren't ready to open a store.

I found an awful Pepsi logo jacket from the '50s and a terrific martini glass pin to add to a felt hat. There's also lots of inexpensive costume jewelry and other antique novelties.

Deluxe Junk

3518 Fremont Ave. N.

634-2733

Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. Mon-Fri; noon to 5:30 Sat-Sun

If you dig gaudy oddities like Art Deco lamps, a green Statue of Liberty, dancing Pinocchio puppets and shag rugs, then stop by Deluxe Junk.

In back, past the '50s dinettes and antique cameras, you'll find a room full of men's sportcoats and satin-backed vests. There are a few beaded cashmeres, cool carpetbags and June Cleaver dresses.