State Wines Get Glowing Reports

The recent World Vinifera Conference in Seattle has stirred a lot of national press on Washington state wines - all of it positive. In fact, it was downright glowing.

And what were the top wine writers most excited about? Exactly the same wines that get our taste buds quivering here. Dan Berger of the Los Angeles Times, for example, had nice things to say about Quilceda Creek's 1987 Cabernet Sauvignon, Leonetti Cellars' 1988 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Crest's 1987 Barrel Select Merlot, Arbor Crest's 1987 Cameo Reserve Merlot, Chateau Ste. Michelle's 1987 Cold Creek Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Winery's 1989 Semillon and Gordon Brothers 1988 Merlot, to name a few.

"For many," wrote Berger, "the most impressive showing was made by the upstart hosts from Washington. The high quality of the Washington wines turned the heads of many visitors."

Meanwhile, Bob Thompson, author and columnist for the San Francisco Examiner, highly praised the Worden 1990 Chenin Blanc, Columbia Crest 1989 Sauvignon Blanc, Hogue Cellars 1989 Semillon, Paul Thomas 1989 Chardonnay Reserve, Silver Lake 1989 Chardonnay, Columbia 1988 Milestone Merlot, and Waterbrook 1987 Merlot among others.

Washington wines "keep showing up on the dinner tables of people who know good wine when they taste it," Thompson wrote.

In the meantime, the dust still hasn't settled on a number of changes in the local wine industry. Most interesting is the fact that Randy Finley, founder here of what became the Seven Gables movie theater chain, has purchased the Mount Baker Vineyards winery near Bellingham. Finley, who had been living in Europe the past few years after selling his theaters, felt the lure to return to his native Northwest and face new challenges. Mount Baker is an unusual winery in that it is one of the few to grow grapes west of the Cascades and has made a fine reputation with such varieties as mueller thurgau and madeleine angevine. In fact, it's the only sizable vineyard growing the madeleine angevine in the U.S.

Winemakers move around, too. Silver Lake Winery announced this week that Cheryl Barber-Jones, once a senior winemaker for Chateau Ste. Michelle who "retired" to raise a family, has signed on as winemaker for the Mill Creek winery. It's a return to hands-on winemaking for Barber-Jones, who once supervised the production of more than 1.4 million gallons of wine annually with Ste. Michelle. Brian Carter, winemaker for Washington Hills, had been consulting with Silver Lake and coached them through production of outstanding chardonnays.

But let's get to some discoveries I've made of our state's wines.

Salishan 1990 Dry White Riesling, $5: What's all this fuss over the new dry rieslings, Joan and Linc Wolverton of Salishan want to know? Joan's been making them dry all along. This one is in her typical style - dry but brimming with fresh fruit suggesting melon and peaches with a touch of spice in the finish. Look also for the Salishan 1987 Chardonnay just released. The chardonnay, slightly different from most here, was only planted in 1982 and this was its first big crop. It's delicate but has good fruit flavors, ripe fruit (it was a warm year), a touch of citrus and a long, clean finish. It's $10.

Latah Creek 1990 Feather Chardonnay, $8: If you haven't tried Latah Creek's Feather Chardonnay, an early released and lighter styled chardonnay, you owe it to yourself. It has much of the attributes of a more serious chardonnay - apple fruit, citrus and complex flavors - it's just younger, more delicate and without oak. It's also a better price.

Steven Thomas Livingstone 1990 Chardonnay, $7: This outstanding chardonnay from Spokane is on special this month (regular price is about $9). For the lower price you're getting a chardonnay that has been barrel fermented, has apple and citrus character and a great finish. The grapes came from the Mattawa area (east along the Columbia River after crossing the Vantage Bridge) where outstanding fruit has been grown in recent years.

Facelli 1990 Fume Blanc, $9.50: Lou Facelli's fume blancs are frequently higher priced than others, but they are worth every penny. The '90, which is blended with 20 percent semillon, is really a lovely wine, rich with pear and melon fruit, a hint of herbal character and not a trace of grassiness.

Wine by Tom Stockley appears Wednesday in The Times' Food section.